05 crd limp mode problem! please help!

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Mon Jan 15, 2018 3:34 pm

If you want, you can remove the flapper (butterfly) out of the FCV and toss it! Two small torx screws hold it to the shaft.
Ran without one (removed) for about a year before the Weeks Kit came into being and I installed it. I did have the EGR feed tube blanked off during this time.
Having it removed caused no issues...

Reckard · **Posted:** Mon Jan 15, 2018 3:53 pm

WHat is the process for R&R the accelerator pedal?

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Mon Jan 15, 2018 5:16 pm

Unbolt it from the firewall, and remove the wiring connector.

Reckard · **Posted:** Mon Mar 26, 2018 8:10 am

So I've not been posting for a while as all has been good.

Except..... It loses coolant. None in oil. And I don't think it is burning it.

I wonder if it has anything to do with the EGR since it has coolant lines into it. It doesn't lose much just needs added now and then. It seems like it doesn't matter if it is ran but it sets in gravel and so I cannot find coolant under it but that's kind of hard to see.

I plan to delete the EGR this summer so I guess my question is if you guys think this will eliminate that problem or if I have something more serious...

Thanks,
Randy

flash7210 · **Posted:** Mon Mar 26, 2018 1:55 pm

You need a cooling system pressure tester.
Pump it up to 16 psi.
Slide some big sheets of cardboard under your Jeep.
Walk away for about 30 minutes.
(It also helps to remove the skid plate)

Come back and check the pressure.
If it’s dropped any amount, you have a leak somewhere.
Check the cardboard for drips.
Run your fingers around every coolant hose connection to feel for wetness.
There are lots of possible connections, including the egr valve and heater core.

Let us know what you find.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Mon Mar 26, 2018 3:47 pm

Reckard wrote:

So I've not been posting for a while as all has been good.
Except..... It loses coolant. None in oil. And I don't think it is burning it.
I wonder if it has anything to do with the EGR since it has coolant lines into it. It doesn't lose much just needs added now and then. It seems like it doesn't matter if it is ran but it sets in gravel and so I cannot find coolant under it but that's kind of hard to see.
I plan to delete the EGR this summer so I guess my question is if you guys think this will eliminate that problem or if I have something more serious...
Thanks,
Randy

You can blank off the EGR exhaust feed tube with a simple thin metal plate that you can make at home out of the top of a soup or vegetable can or some thin flat sheet metal until you can purchase and install the Weeks elbow kit.
Then cut and plug the two rubber coolant hoses going to and from the EGR system. This will eliminate any coolant loss from this system.

See this thread for more details:> viewtopic.php?f=5&t=76576

These are the dimensions for the block off plate:
:SOMBRERO:

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Mon Mar 26, 2018 6:44 pm

The water pump it's self, and the area around it, with all the connections for the Oil Cooler, Thermostat, and T-stat bypass have their share of seeping leaks.

Reckard · **Posted:** Tue Mar 27, 2018 6:07 am

thanks for the tips.

I cannot view the image of the EGR blank off plate.

I plan to do the Weeks kits. But may also do the DIY first just to see if it solves the coolant loss.

Randy

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Tue Mar 27, 2018 9:19 am

Reckard wrote:

thanks for the tips.

I cannot view the image of the EGR blank off plate.

I plan to do the Weeks kits. But may also do the DIY first just to see if it solves the coolant loss.

Randy

PM sent.

Reckard · **Posted:** Thu Apr 12, 2018 6:43 am

Finding time for the blank off plate install is difficult right now.

I have the MAF unplugged and the plate removed from the butterfly in the intake. Would it hurt anything to plug/remove the coolant lines going into the EGR with out the blank off plate installed?

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Thu Apr 12, 2018 8:46 am

Without a blockoff plate installed, it might. Even a little flow brings a lot of heat over from the exhaust. The good news is, it's less likely, and probably the only thing it would damage is the EGR valve / cooler assembly. If you do, don't pinch off the water lines. Get them gone completely, so they won't melt and cause you to lose coolant.

Not what I'd consider likely, but possible.

Reckard · **Posted:** Thu Apr 12, 2018 6:24 pm

I was going to plug them as close to the thermostat housing as possible and cut the excess hose off. It seems to me if the flapper is removed it won’t draw vacuum so should see little exhaust in the egr..!!

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Thu Apr 12, 2018 10:52 pm

Don't forget you have the metal y piece for the return over the front of the engine. Might be better just to re-route the coolant from the head fitting (middle of head on driver side) to the metal return pipe behind the alternator.

Not installing a blockoff can still allow intake pressure bleeding off through the EGR into the exhaust. This will result in a turbo underboost DTC condition. (and black exhaust, low power, etc)

Reckard · **Posted:** Fri Apr 13, 2018 8:32 am

Thanks for the info. I’ll just wait until I have time to install the plate and route the hose as suggested!!!!

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Fri Apr 13, 2018 10:46 am

Once you have the EGR block off plate installed, you can disable and completely remove all the associated EGR coolant hoses...
Cap or cut and plug the 5/8 feed hose coming off the center of the head. (be sure and clamp plug in hose)
Replace the "Y" fitting on the return end with a straight *5/8 barbed hose coupling union available at most parts store or a hardware store.

:SOMBRERO:

*

Ski Killset · **Joined:** Wed Dec 28, 2016 4:03 am **Posts:** 11

Reckard wrote:

I thought that light was for the butterfly valve in the intake manifold???

I got an ALTEL scanner recommended on this sight but I cannot get it to talk to the jeep... Quite disappointed in that.

It will only recognize a 2006. Just put your VIN in and then select 2006 and it will work fine.

jagster936 · **Joined:** Sun Aug 04, 2019 3:06 pm **Posts:** 210

What was result of OP question? I am having similar issue but no limp mode.

My history of issue is here:

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=92749&p=953727#p953727

It is doing the same thing as original but not all of it. Basically shifts perfectly when up to operating temp but after a while when things nice and warm it will long shift 2-3, drag it out to around 3k RPM. It's still driveable but isn't normal. No light's come on and I don't know if any DTC's are thrown. I may rent a DRBIII next time I'm home or take to a snap-on mechanic.

I suspect temperature sensor related issue or is the cooling issue like described in this post. But I want a scanner that can read observed temp and see if that is causing the weird issues. It seems to be going into the described "very hot" mode where it drags out gears. But no codes or no lights anyway, maybe there are hidden codes

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Mon Aug 21, 2023 5:38 pm

jagster936 wrote:

What was result of OP question? I am having similar issue but no limp mode.

My history of issue is here:

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=92749&p=953727#p953727

It is doing the same thing as original but not all of it. Basically shifts perfectly when up to operating temp but after a while when things nice and warm it will long shift 2-3, drag it out to around 3k RPM. It's still driveable but isn't normal. No light's come on and I don't know if any DTC's are thrown. I may rent a DRBIII next time I'm home or take to a snap-on mechanic.

I suspect temperature sensor related issue or is the cooling issue like described in this post. But I want a scanner that can read observed temp and see if that is causing the weird issues. It seems to be going into the described "very hot" mode where it drags out gears. But no codes or no lights anyway, maybe there are hidden codes

See this: viewtopic.php?p=953759#p953759

05 crd limp mode problem! please help!

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