I didnt use their adapter but i put mine in the intake manifold
Its a preexisting spot that need to drill a small hole into. Im not sure wat size threads it is but i had a adapter from a dodge cummins that fit. Hope this helps!
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| Author: | scubadvr1999 [ Wed Aug 01, 2012 12:24 pm ] |
| Post subject: | boost gauge question |
Has anyone else bought the boost gauge adapter from IDParts? I did any i am wondering where the right spot is to tap this little guy into. |
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| Author: | Kgeisler2010 [ Thu Aug 02, 2012 12:29 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: boost gauge question |
I didnt use their adapter but i put mine in the intake manifold Its a preexisting spot that need to drill a small hole into. Im not sure wat size threads it is but i had a adapter from a dodge cummins that fit. Hope this helps! |
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| Author: | ArmyChief [ Fri Nov 21, 2014 10:02 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: boost gauge question |
Anyone know the thread of that port..was there a plug there from the factory? |
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| Author: | papaindigo [ Fri Nov 21, 2014 10:43 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: boost gauge question |
No plug there from the factory. |
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| Author: | gmctd [ Fri Nov 21, 2014 12:25 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: boost gauge question |
Hole is metric tapped for a bolt, and can be re-tapped for 1/8"npt or 1/4"npt or 3/8"npt - select your tap-size - choose wisely, pilgrim........... - use a flat-bottom tap, called a finishing tap, which will make threads to the bottom of the hole, allowing the most thread-depth - tap the aluminum hole prior to drilling thru into the manifold - blow the resulting aluminum shavings out of the hole - use a 1/16" drill-bit to open the access hole into the manifold - 1/16" is sufficent for the gage, and reduces the size and quantity of shavings that will fall thru Alternately, use the blow end of your vacuum cleaner to blow into the compressor inlet while drilling - this will blow any shavings out when the drill-bit punches thru into the manifold Can have an assistant use the suck end directly at the hole while drilling, but will allow some shaving to fall thru This is not a dynamic port, because the gage is a closed-end attachment with ~0.030" inlet orifice - 1/16" is larger at 0.0625" - a dynamic port used for actuating some device would require a larger diameter hole Can use a 1/8" drill-bit if pressuring-up the intake system via vacuum cleaner output or shop air - 1/8" bit is less fragile than 1/16" bit, more durable for the slab-handed shade IIRC, the aftermarket Cummins adaptor is threaded to match an SAE-tapped bolt hole in the big 6cyl Diesel manifold |
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| Author: | thermorex [ Mon Nov 24, 2014 5:18 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: boost gauge question |
If you go with 3 in 1 gauge from glow shift, that comes with a digital (wires, no plastic line) probe in 1/8 npt. So you'll need a hole tapped in 1/8 npt, which is a little larger than 3/8 drill bit, which can be used to drill the hole. I replied on your other post with more info. |
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| Author: | ArmyChief [ Mon Nov 24, 2014 8:34 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: boost gauge question |
thermorex wrote: If you go with 3 in 1 gauge from glow shift, that comes with a digital (wires, no plastic line) probe in 1/8 npt. So you'll need a hole tapped in 1/8 npt, which is a little larger than 3/8 drill bit, which can be used to drill the hole. I replied on your other post with more info. That's the gauge I'm installing. Contact Seth at Sasquatch. He's making me a custom vent pod for the Glowshift gauge. |
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| Author: | thermorex [ Mon Nov 24, 2014 11:59 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: boost gauge question |
ArmyChief wrote: thermorex wrote: If you go with 3 in 1 gauge from glow shift, that comes with a digital (wires, no plastic line) probe in 1/8 npt. So you'll need a hole tapped in 1/8 npt, which is a little larger than 3/8 drill bit, which can be used to drill the hole. I replied on your other post with more info. That's the gauge I'm installing. Contact Seth at Sasquatch. He's making me a custom vent pod for the Glowshift gauge. Definitely I will. I already have his other pods, very nice fit and design. Fitting the 3 in 1 was not an option when I got those pods, but if he already makes a bigger pod, it will save a lot of space for other gauges. Btw, did you already get the lotek pillar with 2 pods? |
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| Author: | weeks101 [ Tue Nov 25, 2014 2:05 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: boost gauge question |
Here is a mock-up of the larger size. Final product will be powder-coated black and available on our web site in 2-3 weeks. This the largest size gauge that will fit while retaining vents. 
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| Author: | ArmyChief [ Tue Nov 25, 2014 2:33 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: boost gauge question |
thermorex wrote: ArmyChief wrote: thermorex wrote: Btw, did you already get the lotek pillar with 2 pods? No sir, did not want to have a "look" like that..or lose the handle. Wanted it in the furthest left air vent. |
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| Author: | ArmyChief [ Tue Nov 25, 2014 2:34 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: boost gauge question |
weeks101 wrote: Here is a mock-up of the larger size. Final product will be powder-coated black and available on our web site in 2-3 weeks. This the largest size gauge that will fit while retaining vents. My..that's a FINE looking gauge there sir 
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| Author: | gmctd [ Tue Nov 25, 2014 4:19 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: boost gauge question |
Could be relevent to know the upper and lower temperature limits to which these electronic digital LED and stepper-motor type gauges have been tested - the limits may be exceeded by direct heated\cooled air-flow in the hvac ducts - these are very unlike mechanical gauges in their response to temperature changes And, yes, I have a MAX FLOW 4-gauge set, selected separately to get the correct ranges for the KJ............... KJ - ~20psi BOOST, max - the 60psi BOOST gauge is over-scaled, limiting low-end resolution KJ - ~1500* EGT max KJ - 30,000psi max Rail Pressure KJ - ~280*F transmission temp |
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| Author: | ArmyChief [ Tue Nov 25, 2014 4:20 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: boost gauge question |
gmctd wrote: Could be relevent to know the upper and lower temperature limits to which these electronic digital LED and stepper-motor type gauges have been tested - the limits may be exceeded by direct heated\cooled air-flow in the hvac ducts - these are very unlike mechanical gauges in their response to temperature changes Cooling I doubt they'll be issues..but heat..maybe....I'll let you know
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| Author: | gmctd [ Tue Nov 25, 2014 4:32 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: boost gauge question |
Fact is, cooling causes the LEDs to go all segments on or go blank - cooling causes the digital stepper-motor drivers to skip and stop stepping - heating causes the LED segments to glow-britely, then stop - the Light Emitting Diode LED then becomes a Dark Emitting Diode DED - heating causes the stepper motor drivers to stop stepping, with a peculiar odor reminiscent of burned popcorn Electronic gauges also endure further hardships as humidity from heating\cooling coalesces on the internal componentry and printed circuit assemblies, causing erratic function and deterioration from oxidization Mechanical gauges suffer no such ignominies |
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| Author: | ArmyChief [ Tue Nov 25, 2014 4:40 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: boost gauge question |
I stand corrected, I'll still let you know
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| Author: | weeks101 [ Tue Nov 25, 2014 4:47 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: boost gauge question |
One of our daily-driven CRDs has been running a vent-mount stepper-motor glowshift gauge for several years with no issues. Another one has had the same setup for 9 months with no issues. Several vehicles I have owned in the past I did vent-mount gauges which also had no issues (yes electronic gauges). Lastly, I have received zero complaints from customers who are running the vent-mount panels. If you're running heat in the summer you may be doing it wrong   Keep in mind gauges are designed to function in a wide range of extreme high and low temps regularly experienced inside automotive interiors...and yes humidity levels as well.
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| Author: | gmctd [ Tue Nov 25, 2014 5:02 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: boost gauge question |
Ok - remember, my experience obligates me to post a heads-up whenever\wherever required, with no intent to belittle or humiliate - well, maybe so, sometimes.................. But some testing to extremes at which the gauges will fail is done with no applied power to determine possibility of any mechanical failure to electronic componentry at those extremes in a vehicle exposed to those extremes - ^140*F in direct sunlite in summer climes - 0*F and lower in winter climes - the gauges electrical functions may not work at those extremes, but mechanical failure is also unacceptable, where the gauge functioned when the car was parked, but does not when re-started - this usually happens due to mechanical expansion\contraction as the device is powered-off then powered on at some later instance - thus, the exposure-to and testing-of power-on and power-off at extremes This type testing, usually done to more expensive instrumentation, is seldom affordable to lower-priced equipment |
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| Author: | thermorex [ Tue Nov 25, 2014 5:21 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: boost gauge question |
ArmyChief wrote: thermorex wrote: ArmyChief wrote: [quote="thermorex"] Btw, did you already get the lotek pillar with 2 pods? No sir, did not want to have a "look" like that..or lose the handle. Wanted it in the furthest left air vent.[/quote] Got it. But you know, you can never have enough gauges...
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| Author: | thermorex [ Tue Nov 25, 2014 5:40 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: boost gauge question |
weeks101 wrote: One of our daily-driven CRDs has been running a vent-mount stepper-motor glowshift gauge for several years with no issues. Another one has had the same setup for 9 months with no issues. Several vehicles I have owned in the past I did vent-mount gauges which also had no issues (yes electronic gauges). Lastly, I have received zero complaints from customers who are running the vent-mount panels. If you're running heat in the summer you may be doing it wrong Keep in mind gauges are designed to function in a wide range of extreme high and low temps regularly experienced inside automotive interiors...and yes humidity levels as well.That was the first question I asked Seth about those gauge pods. But then I started to think, in the summer months, the car interior can go easily over 200 degrees, roughly the maximum temp that flows through the heating vents. In extreme temps, like in az, that may be easily over 250. Heck, when I was in phx I had to put a towel over the steering wheel and seat, otherwise I couldn't hold it for more than a second or sit for few seconds without burning my rear... Yea, I learned the hard way, lol. If a serious gauge brand wants to stay in business, they would need to make those functional under those rough conditions. So far, I haven't had any issues with the gauges I have in those pods, granted, I don't have lcd displays but I doubt those would be affected by blowing heat. Lots of newer cars have lcd display and they seem to be ok under those extreme heat temperatures. |
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| Author: | gmctd [ Wed Nov 26, 2014 12:28 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: boost gauge question |
Liquid Crystal Display LCD is totally different technology than Light Emitting Diode LED - LCD is more susceptible to temperature variation than LED because the viscous liquid element is easily deformed - without the hard clear cover, even slight finger pressure on the display surface can deform the liquid, causing the displayed form to disappear - heat causes expansion - expansion increases pressure - cold causes contraction - contraction reduces pressure - either way, the display can fade to blank, or black Modern technology has improved electronic devices, but temperature extremes and rapid temperature excursions are still situations to avoid to ensure functional operation of any devices |
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