OK.......let's see where this rabbit hole leads.... Wife had complained that the 2005 CRD Liberty had hesitated/acted weird last week. As I had the new fuel filter sitting in the Fed-Ex bag laying on my desk, I told her I would change out the filter and bleed the system. I got crazy and decided to dump the trans pan, change the trans filters and then change out the fuel filter. Do the trans change magic, take the CRD out for a spin...some slippage and hesitation...seems to get better within a 1/4 mile...I tell myself, air in the system from the change. Cruise at 55-60 with no problems for 5 minutes. Stop at a stop sign, make a turn for town and start to not be able to accelerate above 20 mph. Hmmmmmmm.....turn around and head back home. CRD will not get above 20 MPH. At 20 it acts like I have thrown it in neutral....and stays in SLIP mode until I stop, place it in park, shut it off, restart and place in drive. It will pull and accelerate until 20 MPH, then same story. Check for leaks, i.e I have just dumped all my new ATf+4 because I cannot seal the pan.....Nope, dry underneath....hmmmm. Drive back home at 15 MPH. Park and have a beer before bed. I wake up in AM thinking about what could be wrong....Maybe I left the old gasket from the spin on tranny cooler stuck on the body and installed the new filter and gasket under it..(NOPE). I did have an issue with getting the old sump pump ring gasket out....I left it and put the new sump filter in it (NOPE) So I run to town, pick up a new sump filter kit and spin on cooler filter, just in case I got a bad china knockoff...LOL. Repeat trans pan dump/filter replacement...With new sump filter gasket..Sheesh, wish I had sprung for a new pan with plug. Re-install filters/pan. Fill with fluid......seems like 5 quarts is not filling it up this time. Start CRD, idle go from Reverse to Drive 10 times......seems like it is harsh going into Drive.....gets better. Check fluid.....add fluid....repeat process untill I get 6.5 quarts in. Drive 1/8 th of a mile...same issues as last night. Go back...repeat process until I have 8 quarts in. Now fluid is in the middle of the HOT holes on trans stick. Take for spin....tranny shudders right when it should shift from second to third (20 MPH ) under regular acceleration. It does not shift and RPMs go up with out acceleration. Mess with it for 15 mins......read shop manual....look on-line.....mess with it for 15 mins.....Repeat untill I have had enough and just drive (In F-350) to Autozone and buy a Actron AutoScanner Plus. It pulls P0700, P1263, P1265 and P0102 codes. The 0102 Code is from me unplugging the MAF to stop the EGR. 1263 and 1265 are glow plug codes that I will need to remedy before the weather gets chilly. The 0700 appears to be a generic TCM code. Wife hops in and I show her what is going on....She says " That is what it was doing last week. I just let my foot off of the gas, coasted and then put my foot back into it...problem solved. The other time that happened ( Not aware of this...LOL) I put the Jeep in neutral and back into drive...Problem solved!!" I rub my forehead and limp it back home.

So what are the thoughts? How can I see the Trans Codes as they would appear to be what triggers the 0700 ? Could it be as easy as having GDE send a TCU out and sending in my old core? A relay?? I will go to bed and dream of wonderful replies that involve Magic and Sprinkling Fairy Dust on the CRD. ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ

A tune is not going to fix the problem. You really need to visit a dealer and have the TCM faults read by a DRB scan tool. That is the only device to reliably read trans fault codes. How many miles since the last tranny fluid flush/filer change? Hopefully it is a loose wire or something simple/cheap.

_________________
Providers of wholly developed aftermarket solutions for the KJ CRD.
(248) 977 - 9531

This is the first time that I have changed the fluid/filter. Had the dealer ship do it two years ago when it went in for some recall items. Dealership called back and said that their Tech thought a fluid/filter change would do the trick. I told him that I have done that twice in the last 4 days. Service manager paused and said he would get me a price on a new and rebuilt transmission.......!!! Remaned tran = 4975....dollars not pesos. Used tran with 63000 miles = $3800. Prices include labor.

I got the codes from the Manager, they are as follows:
Transmission Codes??
P0732
P0733
P0734
P0841
P0868
P0884
P1790

Engine Codes ?
P0100
P0504
P0672
P0673

Called a reputable transmission shop. Worst price they have , all goes to hell, is $2500. They want to plug into it and see what they get for codes and then make the call to us. Let me know what everybody thinks! Thanks in advance.

Josh

This sounds just like when Eugene's trans "broke". The (5)45RFE can have the accumulator plate on the side of the valve body pull free, which usually will cause non-engagement above 2nd gear. Transgo kit 45RFE-HD2 addresses this with a beefed up plate, along with addressing a few other problems. I only installed the pieces of the kit that did not require dropping the trans, but for this problem that's plenty. Between purchase of the kit and fluids the repair cost us less than $110.

Here's the thread from our saga. If I remember, I'll see if Jayme can fix the linked pics.
P0733 code set today... *UPDATE*

_________________
Aaron

A vehicle isn't yours till you learn to wrench on it yourself.

2002 Jeep Liberty Sport (Eugene, I am the Passenger, And I ride and I ride.)
1999 Chev Astro 2WD (Green, Daily Driver)
1997 Chev Astro AWD (Grumpy "The Heep", $250 Rally Van, 335k miles, 2" lift, 31" tires)

Ohhhhhh.......that could be the Magic Fairy Dust that we were looking for. Wife is pregnant and VERY impatient. She asked me..."Did anyone from the Lost Forum reply?? " I said, " Honey, Sweet Loving Wife O' Mine, I just posted the trouble codes......" I got the Evil Eye and made a call to the local U-Haul. We rented a car hauler and I hauled the CRD to a trans shop. I will be on the phone with them in the AM. Do you think it would be worth the money to have the rest of the TransGo kit put in??

Josh

I'm not sure I can offer a fully accurate opinion on the other transgo kit parts and I cannot immediately locate the transgo install post but IIRC it's a good bit of extra work to get to the pump to install that portion of the kit although doing that part of the install is probably a good idea. I will offer a thought that you may not like as it's extra $s but if you go in that far you might want to upgrade your torque convertor. As I've been reminded ATS makes one (see viewtopic.php?f=5&t=69878&p=746816&hilit=+suncoast#p746816) that IIRC can be had for a very reasonable price.

Ordinarily I would not recommend replacing an "ok" TC but if you do wind up going in far enough that the current TC has to come out it may be worth the extra $s as the extra may be just the cost of the upgraded TC. In which case you may save money in the long haul.

_________________
Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

It's been 4 years and roughly 80k miles since Eugene was fixed. Thus far I'm happy with not installing everything in the kit.

I will offer you this warning, unless owned by family/friends, a trans shop will try to sell you a complete $$$ rebuild. That's what they tried on us, so we went out, shifted directly to 2nd and drove back home to do the work ourselves.

Not sure how far the trans shop is from you, but you can probably do that too if you need to bring it home. Putting it in 2nd will hold the gear and allow you to drive it without to many headaches, granted a top speed of 25-30 mph depending on your gearing.

_________________
Aaron

A vehicle isn't yours till you learn to wrench on it yourself.

2002 Jeep Liberty Sport (Eugene, I am the Passenger, And I ride and I ride.)
1999 Chev Astro 2WD (Green, Daily Driver)
1997 Chev Astro AWD (Grumpy "The Heep", $250 Rally Van, 335k miles, 2" lift, 31" tires)

I talked with the trans shop this morning. Told them about the accumulator plate on the valve body. They were running the diagnostics/scan and would call back in a few. They called back and said that they usually have broken bolt heads or pieces of the plate when the accumulator goes. Mine was OK. They have also stated that Chrysler runs the AC condenser with the transmission lines to the reservoir in the radiator. He stated that the lines were cracked and leaking. I can buy the part about the trans cooler lines , that run to the radiator , leaking. I have noticed that the bottom of the radiator , where the trans lines come in, has been damp with trans fluid and collecting dirt. I thought, " I will have to cut those and flare/make new sections and stop that." . Does it jive that the AC condenser will be involved. Shop stated that they could get away with bypassing the condenser with a trans cooler. But if it all is bad, the condenser would have to be replaced and recharged...extra $500.
New vehicles boogle me mind sometimes. Does this jive for anyone? I have the Service Manual in PDF thanks to you guys, but I am in the middle of two large quotes for the business. I get the feeling as ihatemybike has stated , that they are pushing for a rebuild. Bottom line is I am not real comfortable with having my pregnant wife and daughter with out a vehicle. We live 20-30 mins from town and I am usually on the road. So I will wait for responses on what the shop stated and then worry about coming up with a plan. If a rebuild is necessary, should I just order the TransGo kit and have it installed? Thanks in advance!

Josh

Does not Jive, AC Condenser is a separate unit from the Radiator. Aside from the coolant some radiators will also have a built in trans and oil cooler, but never AC.

I don't trust that shop already. I know for a fact the shop we had look at our Jeep didn't even drop the pan before stating we needed a complete rebuild.

The trans cooler lines are available from the dealer to swap in. Fairly easy.

_________________
Aaron

A vehicle isn't yours till you learn to wrench on it yourself.

2002 Jeep Liberty Sport (Eugene, I am the Passenger, And I ride and I ride.)
1999 Chev Astro 2WD (Green, Daily Driver)
1997 Chev Astro AWD (Grumpy "The Heep", $250 Rally Van, 335k miles, 2" lift, 31" tires)

Others may be able to offer better information but here is what I can offer:
1. the CRD AC condensor contains the transmission cooler, probably in the bottom, similar to the setup on other vehicles where the tranny cooler is in the bottom of the radiator.
2. if the tranny cooler portion of the AC condensor goes bad, not common but does happen, the expensive fix is a new AC condensor and the cheap fix is to simply bypass things to an auxillary tranny coolers (see http://liberty.eurekaboy.com/transcooler.htm for a sample install although I think he did this as extra cooling not replacement cooling).
3. the tranny lines connect to the cooler with some sort of semi-quick disconnect fittings that do have a tendency to leak. However IIRC those fitting and or lines are not that hard to replace.

At this point things get hinky in my opinion.
1. slight leakage of the cooler connection lines at the fitting has ZERO or less to do with no shift unless enough fluid leaked out to prevent the shift. Was your fluid low? If not those leaks are not the cause of your problem. If fluid was low add fluid and see if problem goes away. If it does fix leaks.
2. I really love shops that want to spend your money running scans and diagnostics. Cynical me it's sort of like a tire shop running suspension and alignment and brake diagnostics before they notice and fix a flat tire. I've reached the point where my standard speech and what I write on the ticket, if I don't have a personal relation with the shop, is you will perform check "X" and you will call me with the results before doing any other work on my vehicle that you expect to get paid for.
3. sounds to me like they might??? have dropped the tranny pan and decided that since they saw no broken pieces in the bottom that the plate was ok rather than undoing like 6 bolts and actually looking at the plate which can easily be the problem without shedding parts. I'd ask them for a simple yes/no answer - have they dropped the tranny pan and removed the valve body and physically inspected the plate for looseness or cracks or.. If not instruct them to quit screwing around on your nickel and do so and until they have done so and reported the results to you no further work is authorized (note time and who you spoke with)

Obviously if after they actually inspect the plate and it's attaching bolts it's in fine shape then you have some other problem.

FYI see http://liberty.eurekaboy.com/transgo.htm for a dated post on the Transgo kit that lacks the pump seat part. The resistor is not needed, does nothing as the tranny learns around it, and IIRC no longer even comes in the kit.

_________________
Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

I'm having 0734, then 0733 + 1790 .(545rfe)
Transgo installed, filters changed, fluid changed, but no difference.
In third gear car going as in 1st gear.

Was Transgo installed, filters changed, fluid changed, an attempt to fix these codes?.

_________________
Share your ideas freely at https://www.facebook.com/groups/libertydiesels/

Yes/ Also solenoid pack replaced

The ratio errors will cause TCM to switch to limp (manual) mode for sure.

There's a chance that this may be caused by one of the speed sensors. Did you notice any debris in the fluid when you had the pan open.

_________________
Share your ideas freely at https://www.facebook.com/groups/libertydiesels/

Yes, in the pan was some derbis.
How to identify speed sensor fault by starscan? Input and output sensors give some data on the turnover of shafts and it seems to be correct

If there's more than some metal "sludge" on the magnet then your problem is likely gear or clutch related and will likely require a teardown to diagnose.

_________________
Share your ideas freely at https://www.facebook.com/groups/libertydiesels/

magnet was pretty clean, without sludge.

It is quite difficult to serve the transmission in my town. I have in the city only a few of these vehicles (jeep)(not US).
If i not find the cause of fault, have to to contact the junkyard

I have read on this forum where some one fixed a P0700 code just by using contact cleaner on the TCM connectors.

I got P0700 one time last summer and did not see it again, when I was doing my ARP studs a couple of months ago I did put deoxit on the connectors of the TCM before I plugged it back in.

_________________
2006 LTD Bright Silver loaded with all the needed mods, CCV intact.
Proudly supporting CRD vendors, and their development of quality parts and accessories.
Equipped with HDS thermostat, plenty of heat, faster warm-ups, increased fuel mileage.

Check out the diagnostic procedure the 545RFE here http://colorado4wheel.com/manuals/Jeep/ ... 02wget.pdf

If you have access to a DRBII (or Starscan for 2005) you need to run a clutch test. If not I'd take a gamble on the speed sensors. They're low cost and both the same so you only need to buy one to test.

...but it sounds like you have non-metallic debris in the pan which is likely coming from your clutches. If this is the case you probably need a rebuild. The kit will cost you less than $300 which is got to be better than putting money into a scrapyard tranny with an unknown history.

_________________
Share your ideas freely at https://www.facebook.com/groups/libertydiesels/