I should have mentioned this but 1) welcome to the forum and 2) if you have not already done so read Sir Sam's NOOB guide.
Comments:
1. TC can be left alone until shudder becomes an issue as I noted. Replacement options include the Euro, SunCoast (somewhat pricey and overbuilt but solid - I'm running this for no better reason than it was a retirement present from me to me along with the GDE turbo and SunCoast is only 3 hrs away for the install), or a good TC shop can rebuild your current one with beefier components.
2. Unless you are sure the previous owner used the proper fluids (oil/I like Shell Rotella T-6, antifreeze/HOAT only which includes Xerex G-05/Mopar/Ford, and ATF+4 for the tranny) it's best to change those out ASAP. Oil is simple (NOTE the oil pan is aluminum and unless the gasket is used on the drain plug it's easy to strip the drain plug threads - $50 or so fix get a Fumoto drain valve with the lever clip then install and never remove a drain plug again). Antifreeze and ATF are a bit harder as a simple drain won't empty all the old fluids so best do the multiple drain and fill route. For antifreeze drain (run a search on my handle for instructions) and refill 2-3 times with demineralized water then do an antifreeze fill. For ATF the only solution I know is to drop the pan and let it drain over night, repeat once, then install new filters and fluid). Do not buy tranny filters off Ebay as some of the bad OEM ones are still out there, get your filters from a dealer or good auto supply like NAPA or OReilley's.
3. the tranny pump, as I understand it, has a soft seat that tends to wear in the long haul. There is a new pump that can be installed but that tends to be done with a TC replacement. There is a transgo kit that as I understand it does the same thing for less $s. I had the transgo kit installed with my SunCoast TC.
4. if you fuel filter head has a bright blue cap on the heater plug and both power plugs on the head are essentially identical in size (see Sir Sam's fuel bleeding video) you already have the new head unit. If you don't I'd recommend getting it.
5. coolant hoses nowdays last a really long time and I would not spend $s replacing them unless obviously soft. The 2 intercooler hoses are a different story. If you don't already have Samcos installed (
http://www.boostcontroller.com/index.php?category=328) then get them. While the intercooler hoses are off pull the airbox to turbo hose and look for a tear just in front of the turbo and below the "T" where the CCV hose connects. If torn replace - OEM part only running last I knew ca. $60
6. battery - any good group 34 with CCA 800 or better that physically fits is fine. Sears P-1 is great but pricey. Interstate Megatron 85 mo is almost as good for less $s. I have Sears, my son stoutdog has Interstate.
7. when you check brakes also pay attention to the odd "internal" parking drum brake as they tend to get somewhat nasty and are often overlooked.
8. CRITICAL - timing belt change absolutely must be done at or near 100,000 miles. If previous owner says it was done ask for documentation. Anything in writing or verbal that says a "mechanic" "checked" the TB should be taken as a bald faced lie. It's impossible to check TB condition without getting so far in that it might as well be changed. Either they checked nothing or they cannot tell the visible serpentine belt from the hidded timing belt. FYI depending on your location there are members with the tools scattered around the country that can do or help do a TB change for a reasonable fee.
Enjoy, I certainly do.
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