Hi all
this may be a stupid question but please could someone clarify to me the correct procedure for torquing down my cylinder head after replacement.
The manual quotes the following:
Cylinder Head Bolt Torquing Procedure
(1) Lubricate cylinder head bolts with engine oil.
(2) Torque bolts to 30N·m in numerical starting
with bolt #1 (Fig. 10).
(3) Tighten all bolts an additional 50°, starting
with bolt #4 then 5-6-7-8-9-10-1-2-3-11-12-13-14-15-
16-17-18 (Fig. 10).
(4) Finally tighten all bolts an additional 75° in
numerical order starting with bolt #1
I'm OK with the numerical order but the second and third sequences are leaving me a bit lost. Is the second sequence telling me to torque down to 50N-m and third sequence to 75N-m or have I just got it totally wrong.
My apologies for drawing on the great expertise and knowledge on this forum for such a dumb question .
Cheers
Phil

Looked at things again could it be 30N-m in sequence then a further half turn in sequence followed by a three quarter turn in sequence.
If any of our more knowledgeable members could confirm I will be happy to crawl back under my stone.
Phil

Yup common procedure for Torque to Yield bolts, been that way for years.
I like to use a long breaker bar instead of a torque wrench for the extra 1/2 turn and 3/4 turn because the torque wrench can flex and give an error on the amount you need to rotate the bolt after the initial torquing.

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Make sure to check your math. Considering 360° constitutes a full turn, 50° and 75° are each less than a quarter turn.

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Phil,

What model year KJ do you have? The 2006 KJ CRD service manual lists the following and it is different from what you stated:

INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Piston protrusion must be measured to determine cylinder head gasket thickness if one or more
cylinder liners have been replaced (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
NOTE: If cylinder liner(s) have not been removed, the same thickness head gasket that was removed can be
used.
1. Clean and inspect gasket mating surfaces.
2. Position correct head gasket on engine block.
3. Place cylinder head on engine block.
CAUTION: New cylinder head bolts must be used. Do Not lubricate new cylinder head bolts. They already
are coated with an anti scuff treatment.
4. Tighten cylinder head bolts following procedure below.
Cylinder Head Bolt Torquing Procedure
1. Tighten all cylinder head bolts starting from the center bolts, following the cylinder head scheme and the following
sequence: 3-2-1-10-9-8-7-6-5-4-11-12-13-14-15-16-17-18.
2. Without loosening any bolts, starting from the center bolts, tighten each bolt an additional 75° in the following
sequence: 10-9-8-7-6-5-4-3-2-1.
3. Tighten the lateral cylinder head bolts an additional 50° in the following sequence: 11-12-13-14-15-16-17-18.
4. Finally tighten all bolts an additional 75° in the following sequence: 10-9-8-7-6-5-4-3-2-1-11-12-13-14-15-16-17-
18..

The head and bolt sequence is on the link below:

http://www.keepandshare.com/doc/4487559 ... g-50k?da=y

Keep in mind there are 360 degrees in a full turn, so 50 degrees is not a 1/4 turn...90 degrees is a quarter turn. If you do an extra 1/2 turn and then a 3/4 turn the bolts will be way overtorqued and yield too much or break. Following the proceedure above we have to use a 5 foot bar to complete the angle torque, it is near impossible to do this with a regular length torque wrench unless you are some sort of powerlifter. GDE

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Hi guys
thanks for all your help, being a boating type I'm pretty familiar with degree's, but now I don't know whether to go with degree's or half / three quarter turns but I do promise not to get out the five foot bar!
GDE my KJ is a 2004 2.5crd, i found the torque info in the 2.5 / 2.8crd export version of the fsm, comparing the two your 2006 sequence of tightening the bolts looks to be a later and much more comprehensive pattern to keep things evenly loaded.
Once again thanks for your help it is very much appreciated .
Phil

Quick update, I just came across this article on torque to yield bolts http://www.acl.co.nz/Tech/Torque%20To%2 ... dbolts.pdf time to break out my protractor and start measuring my angles. I just didn't realize the tolerrences here were so critical.

I NEVER use engine oil, but the best assembly lube I can get. Arp lube is supposed to be really good, but i have not used any yet. I have used graphite lube, and moly lubes. I chase the threads with a deep tap, first. It also helps to run the bolts up and down a dozen times or so to lap the threads. Spending some time to make certain the threads are very clean and properly lubed, and that the underside of the head of the bolt, both sides of the washer if you have one, and the head surface where the bolts bear is unburred, clean and properly lubed will maximize the chances of getting a good clamp job from the bolts. Dont use too much lube, just a skim coat is enough.

Good luck!

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