'06 CRD Smokes worse than my Cumins 12 valve! Help!!

wodmeup · **Posted:** Fri Sep 21, 2012 2:32 am

I went ahead and pulled the EGR valve off of the Jeep. I have learned some things about working on this thing. One: There is almost zero room to work on anything in there. 2: If there is something in the way of what you are trying to do, just take it off. I had been reading about the fuel filter upgrade when I discovered how easy it is to take the filter head off of the firewall. With that thing out of the way, I got the intake elbow off of the head cover rather easily. The EGR puke tube was still stuck to it when I pulled the whole affair out. As I look at it I realized that the FCV is sandwiched between the elbow casting and the CAC flange. What is to prevent me from getting shorter bolts and eliminating the stupid thing entirely?

Duder had left the EGR valve electrical connector unplugged, but I am not sure how much good that might have been doing. He said something about an active EGR code when we left, and he also mentioned the low boost code again. Big surprise. (Wouldn't that be like telling someone their head hurts because they have a headache?) Anyway, the valve is out and laying on the bench. I shine a light in there and I can't see if the valve itself is open or not. It does look fairly new. I took a photo of it before I disconnected anything. See the smear of soot by the tube's flange? Looks suspicious until I took the burp bottle off of the firewall along with the turbo's heat shield. My findings here are also pictured. Think I could be losing enough exhaust to prevent building boost?

http://i.imgur.com/AVkob.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/KI2bP.jpg

I am thinking of trying to find the perfect sized core plug or something to put over the hole in the exhaust manifold instead of welding my existing tubes shut. I may need to put those stupid things back on for one, and I also don't think they are sealing very well anyway.

geordi · **Posted:** Fri Sep 21, 2012 3:15 am

Wow, you've been losing a LOT of exhaust there.

I would suggest making a plug out of metal, something that can match the shape of the flange on the tubing, because you will want to use the clamp to hold it to the exhaust manifold. There is a LOT of pressure there, as well as the potential for 1200 degree heat - Not much can put up with that other than metal.

Thinking about this... I made 2 very nice plugs that fit perfectly on the flanges, and I know they won't be needed on my own CRD anymore. I think they might be useful for you. $40 shipped? Shoot me a PM and we can discuss. As far as your FCV - You don't need to do anything with shorter bolts on that, the rubber hose length is important, and it won't put up with being stretched that much. Easier solution: Unscrew the disc in the center of the FCV, and put the unit back in. Now it is harmless.

wodmeup · **Posted:** Fri Sep 21, 2012 9:57 am

Geordi: I'll take em! PM sent.

So as I am looking at this EGR cooler I realize that it isn't exactly clear to me what I have here. Am I looking at a cast iron housing that the cooler and valve both bolt onto? And if I am not mistaken, I need to route my heater hose from where it comes out of the side of the motor just under the intake (and above the cooler) to a steel line that I see going up and over the front of the head?

papaindigo · **Posted:** Fri Sep 21, 2012 10:48 am

I've thought about this a bit, discussed it briefly on-site with geordi a year or so ago, just now looked at a picture of that side of the engine (email me if you want a copy), looked at the parts manual, and glanced at my engine.

Someone who has done this may want to weigh in but:
1. there are 4 water lines involved - out of the block to the EGR cooler, out of the cooler to the EGR, from the EGR back to the cooler, and from the cooler (via a hose, metal pipe, hose combination) to a "Y" fitting just behind the top of the tstat.
2. if you want to bypass the EGR cooling (EGR has been removed or disabled or function so reduced cooling is no longer needed) you don't need coolant to go thru the hoses between the EGR and the cooler and the hose from the block to the EGR needs to be rerouted (I would not plug it as I don't know enough about the internal engine cooling passages to know what creating that deadend would do) to that "Y" fitting. In rerouting to the "Y" fitting I'd be inclined to ditch the metal pipe and simply replace the whole thing with a piece of high quality heater hose running from the block over the top of the engine directly to the "Y" fitting; taking care of course to keep clear of excessively hot surfaces.

wodmeup · **Posted:** Fri Sep 21, 2012 11:03 am

There is a 3/4 inch line going out of the engine and into the top port on the cooler with a 1/4 inch tee that goes to the plastic housing on the EGR valve. Same deal on the bottom port of the cooler with the same tee setup. Then the 3/4 inch line from there goes to the steel hose and on to the t-stat. Different on an '05 than an '06?

Hexus · **Posted:** Fri Sep 21, 2012 11:38 am

It looks like you're losing exhaust off the side of your EGR valve. The valve itself looks very new, I know because I changed mine twice before going with the ECO tune.

There's a gasket where that pipe connects to the EGR valve, I replaced mine both times, but it's easy to pinch or damage because of how small an area you have to work in. If you took it out, you know exactly what I'm talking about. Also there is a small (mine was metal) washer that goes on the bottom of the EGR valve that can very easily (mind bendingly so) be bent or you can put it on and miss the bolt holes (don't even ask).

That stupid valve along with the FCV is the bane of most of the people who start posting here. :5SHOTS:

If you have it out, I would replace both gaskets before putting it back in. Also the valve being unplugged could have been what was throwing the code anyways. Even if the EGR valve is failing (couldn't have been anything but failing if it was unplugged) it wouldn't blow exhaust everywhere if it was seated properly. I know this because my first one was so filled up with soot and oil that it couldn't operate and I went ahead and replaced it rather than cleaning it out and just continuing to use it.

You could bypass that coolant line with a simple male/male brass fitting plugged into the 2 hoses that plug into the ports of the EGR valve, doesn't need to be fancy, don't do this unless you have the tune or a SEGR though and have everything blocked off prior.

Even though I have the GDE tune, my EGR and FCV are both still installed in the engine, I didn't honestly see the point of doing even more work to fabricate something to cover the hole with.

Just my thoughts.

geordi · **Posted:** Fri Sep 21, 2012 12:02 pm

I think we are all using different terms to think about the same things, and it is confusing at least me.

There are multiple coolant lines, but there is only two that need to be dealt with in the removal of the EGR and cooler. The EGR and the cooler come out as a complete unit, and they have several smaller hoses on them, but the only ones to concern yourself with are the 3/4" hoses. Unbolt the metal hose that crosses the top-front of the engine by the oil fill. This is the SUPPLY line from the thermostat. The other end of that metal hose transitions to rubber, and connects to the gordian knot on the EGR cooler. Unhook the 3/4" rubber at the cooler and the metal hose, and the other 3/4" hose where it connects to the cylinder head between cylinders #2 and #3. This is the only connection to worry about - make that metal hose link to the cylinder head. I had to cut the metal hose back about 4 inches so the rubber wasn't kinked to the head. You don't want the rubber hose kinked or looped, it could create an air pocket that starves the head for waterflow.

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wodmeup · **Posted:** Fri Sep 21, 2012 8:48 pm

Here are the results of today's allotted time for Jeep wrenching.

First I want to illustrate the (now) gaping space in the motor hole of the CRD. I really like how cleaned up it looks in there. (Admittedly a bit weird, but I know you guys can relate.) I ran out of time before I could get a gasket cut out for the intake elbow, but it is just as well, because I am still waiting on parts from Geordi to seal up a couple of 3/4 inch diameter holes in a manifold or two... :goink:

The second photo is of the coolant line coming out of the head and bending toward the alternator. I noticed that the hose had a 90 degree turn, so I just turned the hose on the nipple until it faced the right way, cut it shorter, and slipped into the metal line that I also shortened. Having a few steel tubing tools laying around has come in handy more times than I can count. I used a pipe cutter on the thing just above the bolt tab, bent the 45 degree turn a bit tighter, and finally flared the end. I was very happy with the results.

I also managed to find a spare 30 seconds to neuter that stupid FCV. It won't be causing me any more problems.

So now my computer will be irate with me for my tinkering. Should the GDE tune take care of that end of things, or should I still go ahead and fab up a SEGR? Would it be pointless to hang the EGR valve in there on a coat hanger all plugged in just to mock the ECM?

geordi · **Posted:** Sat Sep 22, 2012 12:13 am

Granted that I have an SEGR and the GDE tune, but I believe the GDE tune does enough to eliminate the code setting and the idiot light from the now-expelled EGR valve.

What I find interesting - The location you highlight where the EGR is no longer... On my engine, I have half of a rod bottom poking out and saying hello.

I got an interesting idea looking at that picture - maybe I can be completely insane and get my rod un-stuck, weld a plate over that hole, and put the thing back together. I'm probably insane, but maybe. First thing I need to do is continue tearing the thing down.

wodmeup · **Posted:** Sat Sep 22, 2012 2:19 am

geordi wrote:

What I find interesting - The location you highlight where the EGR is no longer... On my engine, I have half of a rod bottom poking out and saying hello.

So... by rod poking out, are we talking about a connecting rod, or is my imagination just trying to talk me into something less sinister?

When those plugs get here I intend to put the whole mess back together. If (and this is a pretty big if) it runs how it is supposed to, we are going to order that tuner. She just doesn't want to spend any more money until it is fixed in case we need to buy something else instead. Is there any reason the silly thing wouldn't run right (even with a CEL) provided this was the problem?

Also, does anyone know where/if I can download a service manual for this thing on this site? Coworker said he found one here.

geordi · **Posted:** Sat Sep 22, 2012 2:40 am

I think the Newbie guide has a link to the service manuals, get both the 05 and 06, some graphics are missing descriptions in one, have them in the other, and some images might be missing entirely in one. Stupid Chrysler.

As for it running right, YES! It should run great with the air system properly feeding on fresh air only, and not leaking exhaust that should be happily spinning the turbo instead. Tighten those clamps securely (don't gorilla them) and forget they exist. Yea, you will have the idiot light in short order about the EGR not functioning... Treat that with all due apathy. It will not hurt your engine in the slightest.

As for your reading of my previous comment - You got it right. The semi-circular bottom section of the connecting rod from the #4 cylinder is half way exposed THROUGH the wall of the engine, right behind where the EGR used to be. If the EGR had still been in place when it failed, I might not have known where (or what) had happened for quite some time. As it is, I cannot move the rod yet, and also can't rotate the crank in either direction - it is totally jammed, which makes me think the balance shaft in the oil pan swallowed parts and jammed itself shut that way. The balance shafts are right under the 2/3/4 cylinders.

Pictures will be coming soon of that.

wodmeup · **Posted:** Sat Sep 22, 2012 8:09 pm

So we all enjoy photos of carnage... But I keep in mind that they are always at someone's expense. :lol:

I will be very interested to see how well your intended repairs work out.

I went to the FLAPS today and picked up my elephant hose. I also noticed that my band clamp for the exhaust manifold is all sorts of jacked up. As I was walking out, I noticed this very satisfying pile of parts. So for all those wondering about how this junk looks in broad daylight...

kjjet · **Posted:** Sat Sep 22, 2012 8:33 pm

Looks like the same pile of junk i have, plus i removed the intake butterfly valve also.

Nice!

kjjet · **Posted:** Sat Sep 22, 2012 8:48 pm

As for the heater hose Bypass, papaindigo's reply is spot on. I left the hard line installed but cut off about 6 inches where it turns down. I then installed a 3/4 heater hose and connected it to the head.

wodmeup · **Posted:** Sat Sep 22, 2012 11:20 pm

So here is a random question for you guys. Does anyone use the engine cover? I have always thought of them as ridiculous by principle. Are we trying to insulate the hood? Is it just for noise control? Or is it mostly just so that the Jeep salesman could show something neat and clean to potential customers...? Part number: superfluous... If it is generally thought of as a good thing, I will keep it on there. Otherwise, it is going in the attic (or worse).

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sun Sep 23, 2012 8:28 am

Purpose of the engine cover - 1) to hid the rather unsightly mess of hoses and such on top of the engine; 2) add an extra 1-2 pounds to the bloated weight of the CRD (sort of like having a metal bracket bolted to the firewall as a bracket to bolt the fuel filter head bracket to); and/or 3) maybe provide tiny bit of sound deading.

Bogus purpose according to at least one DCJ service writer (see Eurekaboy's post) it's a vital part of the engine but exactly why was not explained.

Bottom line some members leave it on and some take it off. No harm either way.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Sun Sep 23, 2012 4:58 pm

Ok, maybe I missed something in an earlier post, but now that you have removed the EGR
stuff, what are you using to plug the holes on the intake and exhaust manifolds?

kjjet · **Posted:** Sun Sep 23, 2012 5:31 pm

What i did was remove the EGR pipe at the exhaust manifold and the EGR. With it removed from the engine i cut it one inch long at the manifold side and had it welded shut and installed the little one inch pipe. The only other plug needed is at the intake elbo. I made a small disk to fit under the original clamp.

geordi · **Posted:** Sun Sep 23, 2012 7:51 pm

flash7210 wrote:

Ok, maybe I missed something in an earlier post, but now that you have removed the EGR
stuff, what are you using to plug the holes on the intake and exhaust manifolds?

KJ Jet has the right idea, I did the same thing, and will be sending the plugs I made to Wodmeup tomorrow, all he needs to do is clamp them back into place on both manifolds, and forget they exist.

dennhop · **Posted:** Thu Sep 27, 2012 1:17 pm

After reading through this whole thread, I'm pretty sure I know what I need to do, but just before I start doing all sorts of stupid stuff and really screwing things up, I just had to make sure I'm on the right track.

I've been having all sorts of issues lately, and the only thing left that I haven't touched is my EGR. I was debating blocking it off somehow, and after reading through this, I'm pretty sure that's what I'm going to do. So, that being said, the only thing I have to do is block off the exhaust manifold port to the EGR, and the Intake Manifold port from the EGR, correct? I can leave everything else in place, and if I ended up cutting the lines, having two open lines that feed the EGR aren't going to hurt anything?

Or do I just make a plug to fit, and reconnect the lines back? Call me dense, but I'm still not 100% sure exactly what's going on with this...

'06 CRD Smokes worse than my Cumins 12 valve! Help!!

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