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 Post subject: Buying a CRD! New to the forums too
PostPosted: Thu Sep 13, 2012 12:05 am 
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Joined: Wed Sep 12, 2012 9:53 pm
Posts: 3
I am new to the forum, and need some quick opinions. I will post my full introduction once I have bought a crd with vehicle pictures/etc. Looks like a great site you guys have here and looking forward to crd ownership. Hi to all.

Minor introduction: I'm up in Canada. I don't know everyones opinion on the metric system so I will use it and imperial for now haha. I am mechanically inclined and have experience pulling wrenches on gas and some diesel vehicles. Similar to many of you, the combination of fuel mileage and capability of the kj crds has me sold (I commute, tow, travel, hunt/fish).

I test drove one at a local dealer to get an idea of them and I do like how the swb diesel kj drives. I'm looking to have the vehicle for the next 4/5 years and put 100,000km/60,000miles to 160,000km/100,000miles on it.

There are a few on the private market around me right now that I would like your opinions on regarding price/etc. I am looking to make a purchase very soon.

1-2005 Sport - Tan - 85,000km/53,000miles - $14,000 - (9hrs away)

2-2006 Sport - Red - 100,000km/60,000miles - $14,000

3-2006 Limited - Dark Brown - 215,000km/135,000miles -$10,000

All three are in good shape interior/exterior wise with just normal wear and tear. The first two are obviously low miles so mechanically they should be good. The third is owned by an international diesel mechanic (is the second owner) who has done the brakes, both front wheel bearings, new wheels and tires + stock wheels with used winters, new battery, new fuel filter, all in the last 10,000km. I know the timing belt interval is 100,000miles for these but this belt was done at 125,000miles (when mechanic bought it, he is now selling to buy a pickup, in need of the box).

How many miles is the VM 2.8 good for?

If I could get a some words of advice that would be great. Nothing better than an honest opinion to help make a decision...

Hope the long winded post covers most of the counter questions


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 Post subject: Re: Buying a CRD! New to the forums too
PostPosted: Thu Sep 13, 2012 5:14 am 
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Joined: Sat Sep 10, 2011 5:25 am
Posts: 274
Location: Indiana
Hello and welcome to the forum.

First, to address the question of which one, in my opinion, go for the one with the lowest miles. I realize that is the furthest away but it is worth it if it has been taken care of properly.

Make sure that you read the Noob guide and follow it once you get your tractor. I made a check list of things to do to mine even before driving it home from the PO driveway. Start with unplugging the MAF Sensor at the air filter.

I highly suggest that you change the oil, flush the system and use a good filter, e.g. Mann, Wix, Mopar.

Here is a link to the oil that meets the Daimler Chrysler material standard MS 10725 (along with many other mfg specs that it meets)-if you have a second edition owners manual, turn to page 315. Otherwise, you'll have to take my word for it.

http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/afl.aspx

I could go on, but I believe this a good start. Let us know which one you choose.

FWIW,

Hoosier CRD

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FWIW,
Hoosier CRD

#1 Liberty: '05 CRD Limited Stone White
(SOLD Dec. 2013)
#2 Liberty: ???
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 Post subject: Re: Buying a CRD! New to the forums too
PostPosted: Thu Sep 13, 2012 9:27 am 
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Joined: Sat Jan 20, 2007 4:26 pm
Posts: 1130
Location: Ottawa, Ontario
CDNCRD wrote:
I am mechanically inclined and have experience pulling wrenches on gas and some diesel vehicles. Similar to many of you, the combination of fuel mileage and capability of the kj crds has me sold (I commute, tow, travel, hunt/fish).


This is exactly how I got into it. The mileage doesn't live up to my expectations and winter sucks but it's better than many of the alternatives if you do a lot of towing. Read up on the issues that many of us are having an make sure you understand the maintenance complexities and costs involved especially considering you are not in the US and will pay double to buy parts locally. Can you afford to be without this vehicle while you wait for that backorder part?


CDNCRD wrote:
The third is owned by an international diesel mechanic (is the second owner) who has done the brakes, both front wheel bearings, new wheels and tires + stock wheels with used winters, new battery, new fuel filter, all in the last 10,000km. I know the timing belt interval is 100,000miles for these but this belt was done at 125,000miles (when mechanic bought it, he is now selling to buy a pickup, in need of the box).


Since it's been changed the TB interval is now irrelevant until it nears 135,000 miles. You know you're good to go for another 90Kmiles

Where are you located. Your prices seem to be a bit on the high side compared to what I see here e.g. there's a 2005 Limited with only 121,000km listed on Kijiji for $10,500

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 Post subject: Re: Buying a CRD! New to the forums too
PostPosted: Thu Sep 13, 2012 3:49 pm 
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Joined: Wed Sep 12, 2012 9:53 pm
Posts: 3
I have read and understand the noob guide, really useful. I am out west in the BC Interior, so vehicle shipping costs from out east would wreck a good deal. What would I have to pay for these around me to be a good buy? Im thinking id offer 8,000 for the high mileage one...

A little worried about the reality of finding parts if needed. Other than engine related are there any major crd specific parts that could be tough to find or is everything else pretty much basic kj parts?


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 Post subject: Re: Buying a CRD! New to the forums too
PostPosted: Thu Sep 13, 2012 5:47 pm 
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Joined: Wed Apr 04, 2007 5:21 pm
Posts: 664
Location: Battle Ground, WA
I think the challenging to obtain parts are mostly the diesel engine internals. We've found some good sources for lifters and rockers, but it seems like once you get to the block it takes a step up in difficulty.

Outside of the diesel-unique parts the parts list is pretty much in line with the gassers.

There is one Liberty-unique issue I found (gas/diesel both I think): the left rear brake hose-line combo. The factory one is a single unit from the caliper to the junction block on the rear axle. The other three corners are available for $30-$40 at parts stores but the left is more like $400 from both aftermarket and dealers. Apparently, it's a distinctive piece that Chrysler Jeep farmed out to a third party - and the rules for that kind of sourcing is that they can charge whatever they'd like.

I've decided to go to an area specialty shop when the time comes, and make it a two-piece (rubber, connector, steel line) solution that uses the aftermarket rubber hose that has a connector on it. I think it's just a matter of cut, slide a nut on, and flare the tube on the OEM steel line...

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2005 Liberty CRD
2004.5 Cummins 5.9L TD, F1s, NV5600 6-speed in a '93 GMC Suburban


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 Post subject: Re: Buying a CRD! New to the forums too
PostPosted: Sat Sep 15, 2012 4:00 pm 
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Joined: Wed Sep 12, 2012 9:53 pm
Posts: 3
Good idea on the specialty shop, I can't imagine paying $400 for a simple brake hose/line. The lower mileage jeeps declined my offers, but I am sure I could get the high mileage one for $8000. Thats the jeep I'm leaning towards.

That being said, could I expect the drivetrain to be reliable for for another 100,000km/60,000miles (from 215-315km/135-195mi) with my planned mods/maintenance?:

Upon taking ownership:

Clean m.a.p sensor
Fresh oil/filter (5w-40 synthetic)
Coolant flush
Replace boost hoses if needed with samco

At first oil change (8-10km?):
2.5" Turbo back, or cat back exhaust (no emissions testing here)
GDE Eco tune
Remote starter

If this plan of an $8000 purchase price and mods/mainenance gets the forum stamp of approval I'll go for it, but make it an honest answer don't trick me into it :roll: :)


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 Post subject: Re: Buying a CRD! New to the forums too
PostPosted: Sat Sep 15, 2012 7:44 pm 
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Joined: Thu Sep 06, 2007 9:51 pm
Posts: 6302
Location: Somewhere between Heaven and Hell... But it is really hot here on Earth...
CDNCRD wrote:
Good idea on the specialty shop, I can't imagine paying $400 for a simple brake hose/line. The lower mileage jeeps declined my offers, but I am sure I could get the high mileage one for $8000. Thats the jeep I'm leaning towards.

That being said, could I expect the drivetrain to be reliable for for another 100,000km/60,000miles (from 215-315km/135-195mi) with my planned mods/maintenance?:

Upon taking ownership:

Clean m.a.p sensor
Fresh oil/filter (5w-40 synthetic)
Coolant flush
Replace boost hoses if needed with samco

At first oil change (8-10km?):
2.5" Turbo back, or cat back exhaust (no emissions testing here)
GDE Eco tune
Remote starter

If this plan of an $8000 purchase price and mods/mainenance gets the forum stamp of approval I'll go for it, but make it an honest answer don't trick me into it :roll: :)


That list of mods looks great, you are looking at another 2000-2500 into it for that list, because I'm figuring you will also find other things that need service.

Buy mine for $10,000 (US - probably about $3500 Loonies the way the economy is going!) and you already have that list done - and more. Check this list and my signature for everything I've done to mine. I realize I'm in Savannah, Georgia, but I'd be happy to meet you somewhere, either you fly here or I fly back - travel is cheap for the right vehicle.

(All numbers are in miles)
Total vehicle miles: 133k miles
Both GDE tunes - transmission and ECO tune
Timing belt done at 106k
Turbo replaced at 110k
New transmission (45k miles on it) installed at 125k due to transfer case problem.
Transfer case replaced at same time, 50k on that when installed.
Coolant flushed now at 133k.
Replaced (when they arrive in the mail) all the rockers and lifters with the newest genuine-VM design
METAL 7volt glowplugs (working great)
SEGR device to disable EGR since 30k miles - intake perfectly clean
Replaced boost hoses at 100k
oil changed either every 3000 miles (for last 12k) or 6k miles (previous interval) with synthetic only
Transmission and transfer case and differentials serviced with synthetic fluids only
Upgraded torque converter - NEVER SHUDDERS
New BF Goodrich Long Trail TA tires on front, rear have about 15k miles left on them.
Boost gauge
Oil pressure gauge - mounted sensor on main oil gallery which feeds turbo and cylinders
Turbo temp gauge - mounted sensor in mouth of turbo

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TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you!
Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
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Over 225 CRDs currently driving with my valves, timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.


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