CRD Glow Plug Stuck (sort of)

403-Tony · **Posted:** Sat Sep 08, 2012 8:39 pm

We'll, I have read a large number of posts regarding stuck glow plugs but I can't find any with the same issue I have. I had 1 bad glowplug throwing a code. I ordered the kit with 4 5V plugs and module. I removed everything I needed to, replaced 3 of them but the #2 plug is stuck... I can loosen it and it turns one full turn and stops... It won't budge and I won't put any more force on it in fear of breaking off the tip. Has anyone had this happen? I assume there is carbon buildup on the tip not allowing it to be removed.

racertracer · **Posted:** Sat Sep 08, 2012 9:13 pm

I've heard it done this way: using a small cordless impact drill........ set to the lowest impact selection.

Where if you held the drill chuck tight in your hand while pressing the trigger, the chuck will not turn but the impact motion will continue, slowly shaking off the carbon. Good luck getting it out.

Usually takes 5 minutes and slowly begins to ease itself out.

403-Tony · **Posted:** Sat Sep 08, 2012 9:18 pm

Hmmm... That sounds like a good idea... Thanks! With it at the lowest setting there should be minimal risk of breaking it off. I will be replacing the timing belt in a few weeks and will try some things at that time. That way, if I have to take the head off I'm already half way there. I have the service manual and it doesn't look like that bad of a job. The only thing I don't have is an injector puller. I have also heard that they can get stuck. That's all I need at $500+ each... Having a toddler at home doesn't leave a lot of free time so if I can avoid it in any way I will.

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Sat Sep 08, 2012 10:10 pm

Many of the ceramic glow plugs that broke of in the cylinders of TDI were from Techs using impact wrenches to make time. Do you want to risk it on your CRD?
I won't.
Use a small socket wrench and work it counterclockwise then a little clockwise and add lots of PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench and work it out. Also try it with the engine warm it may help.

403-Tony · **Posted:** Sat Sep 08, 2012 10:40 pm

A small impact or drill with the clutch set really weak is a lot different then an impact on a high torque setting with no common sense. Worst case scenario, it breaks off and I have to pull the head. That's where I'm at right now anyway. That's why I won't do it until I am ready for the timing belt change.

I tried penetrating oil but the problem isn't with the threads, it is the actual tip that is stuck. Penetrating oil would have to travel through all the threads, run down the shaft of the glow plug and break down the carbon on the tip. I am thinking about attempting just that by sliding a rubber tube over the glow plug, sealing it to the head with some sort of sealant and filling the tube with penetrating oil. Maybe, eventually the oil will get past the threads and run down but who knows... This may work because I can turn it 1 full turn un-seating it so the oil could potentially reach the tip. It may be worth a try, I just wish I had another vehicle to use while I let it soak for a few days...

msilbernagel · **Posted:** Sat Sep 08, 2012 11:44 pm

A lot of it will go past the rings into the oil (so, oil change warning), but...

You might pop the injector, put the cylinder @ TDC (minimum volume) and dump enough penetrating oil in to reach the glow plug from the backside?

Mark

geordi · **Posted:** Sun Sep 09, 2012 1:16 am

All of this is probably moot - I would suspect that this is not carbon build-up, but instead is actually that the tip has mushroomed. The tip just barely protrudes through a small oval hole in the head, so if the tip mushroomed, the edges have made contact with that hole when you try to rotate it. Since you say you can get one rotation before it stops, I would suspect that you have just one small point of contact, OR you just have crap in the threads.

When I removed my ceramic plugs, I felt resistance too... Yet none were damaged, all the plugs were perfect and I had no codes. I had a plug on my TDI fail and mushroom on me, but it must have had more space under the head to sit, b/c while it was almost the same diameter as the threaded hole, it came out without fuss.

Just slowly apply torque and back the thing out. If any scrapes off, it will land in the dead-center of the piston, which is a big bowl shape - The ceramic bits will not touch the outsides of the piston at all. Once you start the engine, they will be blown around by the combustion, and be cleared out the valves fairly quickly. There have been other members here with plugs that have failed and broken off, when the owner had no idea when it happened - The engines kept running, and the tip was never seen again.

Hexus · **Posted:** Sun Sep 09, 2012 6:07 am

I soaked the doo doo out of mine with PB Blaster when they became hard to turn, and slowly worked them back and forth until they came out.

Hoosier CRD · **Posted:** Sun Sep 09, 2012 6:12 am

Hexus wrote:

I soaked the doo doo out of mine with PB Blaster when they became hard to turn, and slowly worked them back and forth until they came out.

FWIW, I like this idea the best. Please keep in mind that you are dealing with an ALUMINUM head and a non-aluminum part.

I would not want to be on the receiving end of a glow plug hole with stretched/compromised threads due to impatience. Slow and steady wins the race here.

Hoosier CRD

403-Tony · **Posted:** Sun Sep 09, 2012 12:17 pm

Yea, I'm a little worried that the end has mushroomed not allowing it to come out no matter what. I thought about taking the injector out to take a look inside with a boroscope (I'm an aircraft mechanic with access to one) but it looks like the hole in the cylinder head will be too small. I also don't have the puller to remove the injector. I think I will try the penetrating oil thing and yes, change the oil after. If I do end up having to remove the head does anyone know the best place to buy the gaskets and head bolts? I'm guessing the stealership but the ones up here in Canada are even worse than down there for ripping people off and I have no use for them unless I'm desperate...

Hoosier CRD · **Posted:** Sun Sep 09, 2012 2:13 pm

Online Mopar parts supplier might be the way to go then. Mother Mopar sells the head gasket and head bolt set as a unit since the head bolts are TTY (Torque-to-Yield).

Hoosier CRD

P.S. Gotta change the glow plugs on mine soon too. I really do not look forward to this task.

403-Tony · **Posted:** Sun Sep 09, 2012 5:25 pm

Thanks, the kit will probably be the way to go. I wouldn't even bother replacing mine if it didn't get so cold here. It starts and runs perfect in the warm or even borderline freezing temperatures so unless you need them I wouldn't even go there. I haven't owned this Jeep in the winter yet and I don't know if it will start okay with only 3 operational glow plugs.. I could wait and see but then I could be causing myself a lot more headaches messing around in the cold.

dirtmover · **Posted:** Mon Sep 10, 2012 9:22 am

Hoosier CRD wrote:

Online Mopar parts supplier might be the way to go then. Mother Mopar sells the head gasket and head bolt set as a unit since the head bolts are TTY (Torque-to-Yield).

Agreed, online is the best option. You'll need to search around for a dealer that will ship outside the US, has sensible shipping charges and does not insist on using UPS. I managed to find one in NY that, while not the cheapest, will actually ship and has sensible charges.

I'm finding that any dealer only parts worth over about $100 are generally coming in at about half the price of buying locally.

I'm curious, was it the failed GP that is stuck?

403-Tony · **Posted:** Mon Sep 10, 2012 12:26 pm

Yea, the trick is finding one that will ship to Canada. I will get prices locally for what I need. I did order the glow plug conversion kit from a Mopar place in the US and it was way cheaper. Even in the US the head gasked is around $200 alone... I don't think it includes the bolts but I'll figure that out. The valve cover gasket is about $60 so this is quickly adding up especially when I have to add shipping on top of things...

It was the failed glow plug that is stuck. I have a few theories to explain it but they are really just guesses. The tip could have mushroomed when it failed causing my problem. Or, there has been excessive carbon buildup on the tip due it not heating up... I don't know but I'm leaning towards a messed up tip. I am really leaning more towards trying the penetrating fluid thing and if that doesn't work, leave it alone and hope it starts in the cold with 3 out of 4 glow plugs...

geordi · **Posted:** Mon Sep 10, 2012 5:31 pm

It should start with only 3 plugs working. You shouldn't need to replace the valve cover gasket unless that comes apart when you disassemble everything, mine didn't, although I replaced it anyway. The head gasket DOES come with the bolts, and if you can't get it shipped, I will be happy to ship it to you in Canada - My shop rate price at my dealer was $215 +tax for it. I won't charge you anything extra for it, just the gasket kit and whatever the actual shipping is.

Let me know if you need my help.

403-Tony · **Posted:** Mon Sep 10, 2012 5:49 pm

That's great, I may take you up on that offer! The dealerhsip here wants $410 for the kit with gasket, bolts and valve cover/intake gasket. I would probably save at least $100 ordering from the US. There are some Mopar places that will ship it and I don't think they chage unreasonable shipping so I'll try that route first.

msilbernagel · **Posted:** Mon Sep 10, 2012 6:17 pm

Tony,

I was able to R&R all my injectors without using the removal tool.

I disconnected the feed at the rail first, pulled the injector clamp/crow's foot, and then worked a very large screwdriver under the point where the fuel feed angles away from the injector to pry (gently) up on the injector as I turned it back and forth in the hole. I put as much force upwards with the screwdriver (the end of it parked on the head/cover) as a level - as felt safe. So the balance is not to use so much force that the injector is flexed/damaged but enough to overcome the drag of dirt and oil on the o-rings as it comes up.

The resistance seems to come from the o-rings and dirt - but keep working it and it eventually comes up and out.

Mark

geordi · **Posted:** Mon Sep 10, 2012 6:27 pm

Mark is correct - Nothing holds them in their bore OTHER than the crow's foot clamp... And all the detritus that collects around the shaft and the o-ring. The o-ring probably will disintegrate during the removal, this is OK, it is not a special component, just an o-ring. I actually replaced mine with an appropriate size from Home Depot.

olddesertrat · **Joined:** Sat Jul 28, 2018 10:54 am **Posts:** 34

Giving another thumbs up to using PB Blaster on stuck glow plug.
Just got done replacing #4.
Removed fuel filter assembly for easy access.
Got plug around 1/2 way out and got stuck.
Stuck meaning would have to use more than 10 ft/lbs torque, which I was not going to do.
Got endoscope pointed at glow plug threads so could see them.
Hit with PB Blaster, waited an hour.
Moved plug back in to get PB Blaster into head threads, then unscrewed again.
this time came out, no problem.
test plug, 185 ohms, bad.
Installed new plug, assembled, cleared codes and drove.
No more check engine

Drive some more to reset OBD2 monitors and will be ready for DMV.
Of course glow plug has nothing to do with smog or how jeep drives, but in Nevada any check engine light is automatic inspection failure.

CRD Glow Plug Stuck (sort of)

Who is online