Just got new 06 CRD and have some questions

huxrules · **Posted:** Tue Mar 28, 2006 2:37 am

Hey guys/gals-

I just bought myself a 06 Sport CRD and I had some questions. This site has been amazing in its detail and depth but I am still unclear on a few things. First off has anyone tried to create a "lost manual" or FAQ for the CRD? With all the knowledge on this board it seems that we could come up with one. My manual that came with the car is lacking. Eg- apparently I have a "engine block heater" but there is no instructions on use. I'm just curious. I live in Texas and will probably never need it but I paid for it. Second off -does ultra low sulphur fuel and biodiesel actually keep the intercooler and intake man. clean of the gunk associated with EGR? I can't seem to find any real evidence that this is true. With a follow up question - does the european verion of this motor have the same EGR setup? They have low sulphur fuel right? Hope you guys can answer. Thanks a lot!

HUXRULES

Pablo · **Joined:** Thu Feb 02, 2006 10:06 pm **Posts:** 1201

1. Engine Block heater cord is wrapped around the dip stick assembly. Just plug it in on a cold night and it will heat the coolant, the Jeep will start and run easier the next morning (if below freezing). Have not used this heater (in AZ now), but from past ones on a Mercedes TD-- it will take around an hour for it to make a difference, most just plug the thing in at night. Unless it is really, really cold (single digits or below 0) you won't have to use it to get the CRD to start, it is just a nice thing to do to help the engine start easier and reduce wear. Do, however, make sure to wait for the glow plug light to go out when it is cold (if the glow plug light comes on when getting ready to start, it means the engine will take a couple seconds to heat up the compression chamber with the glow plugs so that enough heat can be created for the engine to ignite the fuel).

2. Fuel is not the source of the intercooler fouling-- oil blow by is. To fix this, you must stop the blow by from the faulty Crank Case Ventalation filter that does not do its job. Of those who choose to fix this, most augment the CCV with an extra Provalent filter that they finagle in there. A new aftermarket filter is supposably coming out that is largely a drop in replacement/addition. I am holding out for that. Some have reported that a slightly heavier oil (5w-40) stops or minimizes the blow-by.

3. The EGR failures are a seperate issue, for the most part. They are caused (or exacerbated, rather) by high sulfur fuel. Until utra low sulfur fuel comes out, you are largely at the mercy of the EGR grinch (who works for the EPA, I'm sure). When the evil grinch comes to visit you, you must placate him by getting a new EGR. Biodiesel may help with this issue, however-- as it is not high in sulfur. Not sure. The newer EGR (on 06 models) is supposably a better design (I can't remember where I heard this so not sure if it is rumor or fact). The Euro's had the original EGR-- not sure if the newer Euro's have the upgraded EGR or not. The fuel in Europe is much better (low sulfur and higher cetane), so fewer fuel and exhaust related problems exist in Europe than in the US.

grywlfbg · **Posted:** Tue Mar 28, 2006 5:12 pm

All good stuff. My $0.02. Yes, the EGRs are physically the same but they have Low sulfur diesel. Assumptions here i the US is that DC modified the software to try and account for the different fuel but all modern Euro diesels have had problems with EGR's and intercooler fouling in the US. We already have ULSD in Cali and with my Provent I'm EGR trouble free (Only 9k miles though so still inconclusive).

So my recommendation is to install some kind of CCV filter (Provent or wait for Oldnavy's), run bio (B20 or less) if you can, and change to 5W-40 oil.

valkraider · **Posted:** Tue Mar 28, 2006 6:36 pm

Quote:

run bio (B20 or less) if you can

No need to limit to B20 or less... B20 is already 15% above the "officially supported" B5. If you are willing to use B20 than higher blends are just as "unsupported".

It basically boils down to price. B100 can be a little pricey depending on your supplier.

Just make sure, if you use Biodiesel, you get it from a good supplier and that it is commercially produced ASTM spec biodiesel. And by "supplier" I mean the whole chain, the people who make it, transport it, and retail it. Doesn't matter who mis-handles it, water or crud in the fuel is bad...

I shy away from "home brews" and co-ops for now. The CRD is too expensive and too picky for me to risk it just to save a couple bucks on fuel...

I use B20 in the winter, B50 in the spring and fall, and B100 in the summer.

huxrules · **Posted:** Tue Mar 28, 2006 8:15 pm

Wow valkraider thats a lot of biodiesel- any problems with your EGR valve then? I bought the CRD because I wanted to start using bio- might fill up in houston this weekend. Thanks for all the help Pablo and grywlfbg. I think I'll wait for oldnavy's design. I know his design was a big hit with the TDI guys. Has anyone tried to put together a crd faq (similar to the tdi faq at tdiclub)?

HUXRULES

valkraider · **Posted:** Tue Mar 28, 2006 11:12 pm

huxrules wrote:

Wow valkraider thats a lot of biodiesel- any problems with your EGR valve then?

Not yet. (knock on wood).

Other than the initial fill (5 gallons?) of B5 from the factory, my Liberty has never had less than B20 in it...

I am still trying to work out how to keep at least B20 in it on a trip to NM this year. Currently I can get B20 in Salt Lake City and Albuquerque, but I will need to fill up twice in the middle too - around Boise and Moab. I could carry a 5gallon can of B100 to blend, but it would take up valuable space needed for luggage. :roll:

BCool · **Posted:** Tue Mar 28, 2006 11:52 pm

You could come through vegas and get it.

0311_DoC · **Posted:** Wed Mar 29, 2006 12:03 am

are there new fuel sites. or just that one from hancock near downtown. And dont you still have to have the card lock deal?

BCool · **Posted:** Wed Mar 29, 2006 12:21 am

Haycock is the only one I know of, and yes you have to have a card. What dealer do you go to in vegas? You lifted?

0311_DoC · **Posted:** Wed Mar 29, 2006 12:33 am

not lifted yet. but I bought my jeep at chapman at the auto mall. I havent spoke to the service guys yet about mods, so I dont know thier standing on lifts etc... by the way did you do the card lock deal. with the credit or bank draft thing?

retmil46 · **Posted:** Wed Mar 29, 2006 12:46 am

valkraider wrote:

huxrules wrote:

Wow valkraider thats a lot of biodiesel- any problems with your EGR valve then?

Not yet. (knock on wood).

Other than the initial fill (5 gallons?) of B5 from the factory, my Liberty has never had less than B20 in it...

I am still trying to work out how to keep at least B20 in it on a trip to NM this year. Currently I can get B20 in Salt Lake City and Albuquerque, but I will need to fill up twice in the middle too - around Boise and Moab. I could carry a 5gallon can of B100 to blend, but it would take up valuable space needed for luggage. :roll:

If you've got the tow package or can add a hitch, why not try one of the hitch carriers? On another thread, from the info and pics, there are quite a few available, one in particular made by Coleman carried at Target for $70. Use the hitch carrier for the fuel jugs, still leaves inside open for luggage. You could probably carry upwards of four 5 gallon jugs, enough to essentially double your range.

BCool · **Posted:** Wed Mar 29, 2006 1:57 am

I didn't know about a bank draft option I did the credit card. How has chapman been for service? I've had some hard times at Integrity and the worst has been the one up north.

0311_DoC · **Posted:** Wed Mar 29, 2006 2:07 am

BCool wrote:

I didn't know about a bank draft option I did the credit card. How has chapman been for service? I've had some hard times at Integrity and the worst has been the one up north.

Well I havent had anything major done, I just got my KJ on the 1st of January. I can only go by what my salesman said and he was a friend of the family. He said they were pretty cool about mods. But again he's in sales not service. :roll:

grywlfbg · **Posted:** Wed Mar 29, 2006 11:40 am

valkraider wrote:

No need to limit to B20 or less... B20 is already 15% above the "officially supported" B5. If you are willing to use B20 than higher blends are just as "unsupported".

I agree. I run B50 year-round (except when I headed into the mountains to ski) but I usually recommend B20 to people new to Bio as they can just treat it like regular D2. They don't have to worry about temps or anything. Just stick it in and drive it. Then if they like the idea of bio (It's still more than D2 - even here in Cali with our $2.89 D2 prices) they can move up the scale.

I currently buy B100 in 55-gal drums and splash-blend to B50 but there's work involved there.

my $0.02.

0311_DoC · **Posted:** Wed Mar 29, 2006 11:45 am

Quote:

I currently buy B100 in 55-gal drums and splash-blend to B50 but there's work involved there.

my $0.02.

Id like to hear more on that? Do you have them delivered or do you pick em up? please do tell....

jinstall · **Posted:** Fri Mar 31, 2006 7:08 am

I guess I am lucky I have my CRD here in Germany and running low sulfer in it. The only differences I see in diesel is they have a normal grade and a high grade here.

Can the 110V Block heater be used with 220V? or is it really voltage specific?

Just got new 06 CRD and have some questions

Who is online