I have been having slow/long crank starts when the temp is below 50*f.
I have gen 1 fuel head and I want to think I have a slow leak in the fuel head assembly.
When I pump the prime (lots of pumping to get hard prim pump) it starts much faster.

Also when I prime then bleed the air from the bleed screw I get air almost every time.

Has anyone else experienced noticeable air leaks from the (gen 1) filter head?

I plan in doing the lift pump mods soon but I am hoping this will fix my leak!

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-05 Dark Khaki Limited CRD. GDE ECO tune. In-tank lift pump, Transgo doo doo kit, B&M trans cooler, replaced trans solenoid pack and filters, Newer Michelin tires, Timing belt with all related parts replaced at 110,000miles.

Bleed the air, unplug the heater, and pump the primer. If you have a leak at the heater, you'll know. From experience, it is a real good possibility. I went through two of the first gen fuel heads.

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Matt B.

05 Limited CRD. Bought it new. 112k on the clock now.

GDE Eco-tune, rear differential drain plug (drilled and tapped the pumpkin), transmission pan drain plug, Fumoto oil valve, fuel filler neck restriction removed, front hitch, Hayden fan clutch, Sears P1 battery since 08, Mobil 1 5w40, 5 volt glow plugs, DIY timing belt at 109k

Pull the wire connector on the right side and stuff it full of silicon sealant (really stuff it), allow to dry....end of air in fuel system. Now go to eBaY and find a new filter upgrade kit and replace the old filter system.

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Dennis
Considering sound advice, invent your own solutions
CRD

You either have a leak in the 1s gen filter head at the fuel heater plug or are pulling in air from 1 or more of the quick disconnect fittings between there and the fuel tank as evidenced by your primer pumping and bleeding comments. This is extremely common. The leak in the 1st gen head at the fuel heater plug may be extremely obvious per Goglio704's comments or it may not be; my experience was a leak that I could only detect by inserting a "Q" tip into the plug and checking it for signs of diesel fuel (the "Q" tip did not get "wet" but it certainly smelled of diesel). You can try the silcone plug per Dennis MacGyver but if there is any diesel fuel contamination in the plug the silcone won't stick; at least it did not for me even with cleaning the plug with carb cleaner.

So what to do:
1. check for leaking at the fuel heater plug (smaller one on driver's side - see Sir Sam's bleeding video for pictures and PN for 2n gen filter head) as noted above. FYI some have found leakage at the bleeder or at the base of the primer pump. IMHO just bit the bullet and get a new 2n gen filter head and pigtail (match pigtail wires to existing wires based on size as the colors don't match) and be done with it. Cost is like $120 but that includes an installed new Mopar fuel filter (worth $30 or so) and a new WIF sensor (save you old sensor just in case). It's an easy DIY install.
2. if the 2n gen filter head doesn't completely solve your problem, it did for me, you can add an in tank or in line fuel pump. The former is ideal but the latter seems to work fine and is an easier install using a Kennedy Duramax pump or a Facet 40109 from http://www.yachtsupplydepot.com/mechani ... t_697.html either of which can be installed on a "frame" rail back near the fuel tank (in theory this is the best place) on in the engine bay (several have done so and it works just fine - when/if I do this I'll at a transparent replaceable pre-filter just in front of the lift pump to catch anything that might be in the line from the fuel tank and so I can see fuel flow). Alternatively or in addition you can pull the fuel lines and cut out the quick disconnect fittings and replace them with clamps and fuel hose. If you do this be sure to use high quality diesel rated fuel line not the cheap stuff sold at chain auto parts stores. The former runs about $6 a foot at marine supply places vs the latter at ca. $1 a foot but the latter tends to rot quickly. I recommend marine grade that meets SAE J1527 type A1-15 marine (USCG) specs or ISO 7840 Type A-1 such as Shields Series 368 from West Marine.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

Thanks for all the idea's!! This started last winter but it warmed up and the problem stopped so I was lazy and ignored it.

I should have mentioned that I have had the fuel heated unplugged for a few years, did it as soon as i heard of the issue it had.
I have also looked for diesel at the plug but I did not see obvious signs of leakage. I will try the q-tip trick for sure.

I am going to order the gen 2 fuel head this week and throw it on, as stated its a good thing to have even if its not the problem!

Thanks for the info on your issue with the fuel head papaindigo, sounds like I have the same issue seeing as I don't see the leak but I bet its there! Also I like the idea of ditching the QD fuel line ends if this doesn't fix it. The comment on the diesel rated fuel lines is helpful seeing as I am sure most places to stock the good fuel hose.

Again thanks for the help!

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-05 Dark Khaki Limited CRD. GDE ECO tune. In-tank lift pump, Transgo doo doo kit, B&M trans cooler, replaced trans solenoid pack and filters, Newer Michelin tires, Timing belt with all related parts replaced at 110,000miles.

Yep,had 1st gen air issues since day one when vehicle was brand new. A Kennedy lift pump an Racor fuel filter assembly fixed the problem 116,000 miles ago. Kennedy lift pump also helped reduce off idle lag a bit and made engine a tad more responsive to acceleration.

Yep,had 1st gen air issues since day one when vehicle was brand new. A Kennedy lift pump an Racor fuel filter assembly fixed the problem 116,000 miles ago. Kennedy lift pump also helped reduce off idle lag a bit and made engine a tad more responsive to acceleration.