Few questions,
It has around 120,000 miles on it, I'm worried about the timing belt. Do you think it was replaced already? Or is it possible that it hasn't been touched yet? Dealer that I bought it from didn't know.
There is a clunk in the passenger wheel when you hit the brakes or turn just right. Are the ball joints bad? Replace both lower and upper? I think I read somewhere to go with Moog - Ball Joints, part number # K3199 sound right?
Lift pump, would it be ok to just get a universal fuel pump rated for diesel and have it mounted by the frame as close to the fuel tank as I can get it. I don't want to drop the tank right now.
Fuel filter head, I have a few filter bases laying around, but its just a plain base it doesn't have any electric plug ins, can I get rid of all the wires going to the stock filter head?

First, welcome to LOST.

Second, I can tell you are pumped about your new to you CRD (the shotgun approach to the questions gave that away )

Third, The reality check. Park it untill you get the timing belt done. Your 20k past due. Your at serious risk of engine problems.

Fourth, breath, relax, be at one with your jeep.

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2005 Red KJ CRD, TOTALED 12-21-11

2005 Blue KJ Sport CRD, GDE, Magnaflow muffler, Destination AT, Amsoil filters, Fumoto, Timing belt and waterpump @ 99,600, 11 blade nylon fan, 2905 hayden fan clutch, EURO TC




Arguing about whether the glass is half full or half empty misses the point: the bartender cheated you.
Unknown

X2 - there have been a couple of engines with broken rocker arms in that range - you don't need to be one of them.

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2005 CRD
stuff
Skeptic quod gratis asseritur, gratis negatur

Change the timing belt. Running at your own risk.

Tomorrow I'll start on the timing belt. Would it be ok to get the belt at an auto store? Or should I get it right at the dealer? The local O'Reilly's has a Gates powergrip belt for $146
Or who knows, maybe everything was replaced all ready. I guess if I tear it apart and the belt and everything looks new, just leave it? or replace it anyways?

Thanks!

The gates is fine but you can pick it up at RockAuto for half this price.

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Share your ideas freely at https://www.facebook.com/groups/libertydiesels/

...Or pick up the whole TB kit at IDParts

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RIP 10/31/2012
Green Metallic 2006 CRD Limited
GDE Hot tune ~ Pre-F37 TCM ~ Transgo shift kit ~ MagnaFlow ~ Homemade Provent ~ OME 2" lift & Airlift ~ Samco ~ Euro TC ~ Lift pump ~ Nylon fan blade & Hayden clutch ~ Etc!

Welcome aboard. I'd strongly recommend you read Sir Sam's NOOB guide if you have not already done so and while you are there get a copy of the 06 parts fiche and both the 05 and 06 FSMs (06 lacks "keys" to the illustrations that the 05 FSM has).

As to your issues:
1. X to infinity - unless you have written proof positive that the TB job has been done to only rational/sane/safe approach is to assume the job has NOT been done. IMHO there is absolutely no way to be positive that it's a new belt by looking at it and by the time you get far enough in to get a really good look (not a glance at the top 6" or so by cracking the top of the TB cover) it's simply silly not to just replace the belt given what happens and the expense associated with a broken belt on an interference engine. That OReilly timing belt price is absolutely nuts; the PN listed on the OReilly site is Gates T336 (correct PN) but the normal online price (RockAuto, Amazon, others with free shipping is more like $75-80). See further comments below.
2. I cannot advise you on the clunk as the cause could be several things in the suspension or steering but obviously replacement with proper Moog or equivalent parts is good.
3. lift pump on rail near tank or in engine bay is a good addition although some prefer intank. Kennedy is pricey but good while Facet (40109) or Duramax are ok and less pricey. Be sure whatever pump you get is flow thru (e.g. if lift pump fails fuel can still flow thru it). Several install links out there - PM or email me if you want how to info.
4. what OEM fuel filter head do you have? See bleeding video on NOOB guide for the difference. If you have OEM 1st gen IMHO best replacement is OEM 2n gen with new fuel heater pigtail (e.g. keep current connections) although some have installed different rigs.

More on TB. Do not approach this job without 1) reading several how write-ups on how to do it and 2) the proper tools (3 pins and cam locking tool) or their equivalent; not to mention witness marking everything. It's a relatively easy DIY job but tedious (TB along takes ca. 5 hrs and WP using Sir Sam's front 1/2 trick probably adds 2hrs). QUESTION where are you located; this is important as there may be an experienced member near your location with/without tools. Yes get the "kit" from IDparts with or wo the WP (there is debate on how long the WP will last) and while you are at it you really should put on a new serpentine belt and IMHO do a fan shroud mod for ease of future access.

Feel free to PM or email me with ?s but if you want copies of hints I've saved it's best to email me.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

I am running 2 with no lift pumps and no other mandatory noob guide mods, take the Noob guide with a grain of salt, and put in a timing belt for sure.

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2006 LTD Bright Silver loaded with all the needed mods, CCV intact.
Proudly supporting CRD vendors, and their development of quality parts and accessories.
Equipped with HDS thermostat, plenty of heat, faster warm-ups, increased fuel mileage.

I'm looking at the timing belt now, I got everything off. I'm going to replace the water pump since I'm this far.
I'm sure there isn't anyone near me with the locking tools, I'm located in the "thumb" part of Michigan. I'm not sure yet where I'll get the tools. Then I read once where you don't need any tools, you can use drill bits? I'm not crazy about that idea.

Dude... I hope you know what you're doing. If you don't lock those gears you're going to be in trouble. If you don't line up the fuel injector pump correctly you're going to have problems with fuel rail pressure.

There are many CRDs in Michigan, and GDE near me in SE Michigan has the tools to rent. You need threads on the bolts to hold the cams in place...

I guess that's enough for now. Welcome to LOST and I hope this works out. I went to a reputable shop and they still had a difficult time changing my belt.

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2005 Black KJ Sport CRD,
GDE Full Torque ECO TUNE, GDE Transmission ECO Tune,
Samco British Racing Green Hoses
Build Date 1/05
200k miles.
Original Owner

Absolutely positively NOT no way no how simply cannot be done without almost certainly messing timing up and needing 16 rockers at $60 each plus 2-3 days labor. PS don't even think about it.

At minimum you need 1) cam and exhaust locking pins (see http://www.beesvillebeefarm.com/jeep.html for images of ones made from bolts, if you need dimensions see my post at viewtopic.php?f=5&t=67007&p=737953&hilit=dimension#p737953 - UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES try to substitute drill bits or Allen keys); 2) a flywheel pin (in this case a long shank 6mm allen key will work - pull a copy of the 05 FSM from the NOOB guide to see how to); and 3) a cam gear holding tool (the beesvillefarm site shows using a TDI tool in lieu of the CRD Miller tool and thats probably ok - others have fabricated metal plate/bolt/angle iron combos that work - if you are doing the WP the UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES try to losen/tighten the cam holding nuts without a cam gear holding tool as the cam pins will NOT stand the torque).

I know I sound hysterical but there are plenty or horror stories based on actual experince of trying to take short cuts. That said as noted there are substitutes for the Miller tools but only if you use proper substitutes. Alternatively GDE rents the tools for a reasonable price but I understand they are backlogged about 6 wks. If that's too long for you to wait then you can make your own tools if you are properly equiped.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

Timing belt is done. Jeep started and ran great afterwards. Used homemade tools. Next, I think the muffler and cat is going. Need to let the motor breath better.

Let's talk about the "clunk" from the right front.

On mine it was the upper control arm bolts.

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Atlantic Blue 06 CRD Limited (his)
Joined by a 2000 XJ Classic (hers)

I will look have to take a closer look at that. I took a quick look and it looks like the owner before me had the ball joints replaced, upper control arm, and all the bushings. Drove it for two days now and it only made the clunk once

I just bought an 05 had a clunk in the frount passenger wheel. I didn't think much of it. Kinda one of those ill check it out when I'm in there next. Well it was a calipar bracket bolt that rattled out. So my hole calipar and bracket were able to pivot. It looked like it contacted my rim a little. So look out for that crap. Mines in getting the belts done now at the dealership 103,000

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05 Libby crd
K&N flat filter
Rock father lift
Good year duratrac
265/75-16
[color=#FF0000]Mishimoto turbo hoses[/color]
Chevy 6.5 inline lift pump

I had the clunk and I ended up replacing the axle from one from Napa Auto. Clunk gone.