brake wiring questions

canlib · **Posted:** Tue Nov 06, 2012 12:16 am

I am trying to get my tekonsha p3 controller working and I have some problems.

First, I removed the brake switch to make it easier to connect the controller to the white/tan wire. Do I really need to put a new switch in?

With the controller installed I connected to the trailer and the brake pump in the trailer started running and the back up lights on the jeep came on. Ok...miss connection on the trailer...checked everything and can't see a mistake. The Tekonsha has a troubleshooting mode and when I look at the brake switch voltage it shows around 5 volts (unstable seems to be hunting) and when the brake pedal is pushed the voltage jumps to around 15 volts...again unstable. Anyone have any suggestions?

Tony P. · **Posted:** Tue Nov 06, 2012 12:29 am

If I remember correctly, the wires to connect the brake controller are hidden behind the drivers side kick panel. Just above the floor board, I believe that sometimes the wires are label and sometime they are not. Hopefully this will help for now until someone with more experience can chime in.

canlib · **Posted:** Tue Nov 06, 2012 1:04 am

I found the red wire labelled brake and used it to make the connection. No pronlem there thanks.

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Tue Nov 06, 2012 9:11 am

First I don't have your fancy controller, just a plain jane one :wink:

But many of the owners of the brand of my trailer do have them and I read up on the threads.

Your controller pulses the brake lead every so often to insure everything is working. Could this be what your hearing? My trailer does not have a "Pump", it uses magnets.

Second are you connected to the correct wire on the switch? Looking at the wiring diagram on page 8W-35-3, it looks like you want to be on position 2 that has a "WH/TN" wire.
I did mine many years ago and didn't make any notes on my printouts :banghead:

I find the CRD's wiring diagrams as hard to follow as VW's :dead:

In my experience if you need to replace the switch or not it depends on if you disturbed the plunger or not. I didn't and had no problem.

canlib · **Posted:** Tue Nov 06, 2012 12:47 pm

Thanks Joe. I am connected to the white/tan wire and I agree 100% about the wiring diagram. The controller testing the line could account for the 5 volts I'm seeing but not the hydraulic brake pump running or the backup lights turning on.

I might as well burn it in the parking lot than take it to the dealer to find a short....it would likely be cheaper!

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Tue Nov 06, 2012 1:20 pm

I would look VERY carefully at your 7 pin cable wiring colors and connections.
Also there are differing wiring schemes. Here's the most common/correct I've found.
http://www.etrailer.com/faq-wiring.aspx

WolverineFW · **Posted:** Tue Nov 06, 2012 7:04 pm

I put a Prodigy on my Jeep recently and have no issues. I used the red brake signal wire in the kick panel and I believe the brake light wire is tan/white as previously stated.

Where did you get your 12v power from and where did you put your ground wire? Do you have a factory hitch or aftermarket?

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canlib · **Posted:** Wed Nov 07, 2012 12:16 pm

Thanks everyone. It took a full day, but I found a short in the umbilical cable. All good.

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Thu Nov 08, 2012 9:44 am

canlib wrote:

Thanks everyone. It took a full day, but I found a short in the umbilical cable. All good.

The 7 pin one on the trailer :?:

brake wiring questions

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