HELP

saabflyer89 · **Posted:** Sun Dec 23, 2012 7:39 pm

Well I just finished doing the timing belt and water pump. While I was waiting for the paint to dry on the cover I went to remove the map sensor and Crap the stupid thing broke and the plastic crown covering the sensor fell down into the intake. :furious:

Has anyone else had this happen to them? Can I unhook the inlet side and stick my vac up there with a blessing or will I need to take the whole valve cover off to get to it or is there another better way? Please give me your thoughts. :grim:

geordi · **Posted:** Sun Dec 23, 2012 7:43 pm

I would try for the vacuum trick like you are thinking of. You can operate the sensor for a few days without the plastic cage around it, but you do want to get that out if possible.

Good luck. If that doesn't work, you will be taking the valve cover off. Not too terrible a job after you just did a timing belt... But it will kinda suck to disassemble everything again, and THEN start on the fuel rail disassembly.

racertracer · **Posted:** Sun Dec 23, 2012 9:13 pm

Well..... prepare yourself for the worse and if the worse comes, then look at the bright side, because there is always a bright side...... maybe by providence you may have the opportunity to clean the sludgy caked up intake so that mileage improves.

saabflyer89 · **Posted:** Mon Dec 24, 2012 2:54 pm

Ok so I tried to fish the part out and all I got was huge balls of carbon and oil, truly nasty looking so I think I really should take the intake off, but I haven't found a good write up on the proper way to remove the injectors as well as how to bleed the fuel system correctly. I know there are special tools for removing the Injectors but can you remove them without the tools. Is there anyone out there willing to loan their tools for the injector removal. Thanks for the input.

naturist · **Posted:** Mon Dec 24, 2012 3:36 pm

Wait a minute, why would you need to remove the injectors to remove the intake manifold? The injectors are in the head.

But here's another approach. Perhaps you can retrieve the broken bit with one of those cable grabber things. You know, the deal with a plunger that opens a wire spread when you push the plunger down, and closes it when you release the plunger. I've gotten a lot of small bits out of tight spaces with one.

saabflyer89 · **Posted:** Mon Dec 24, 2012 3:47 pm

Haha I bought one of those last night and every time I go into grab the missing part I get a claw full of oil and carbon its a complete mess in there. I honestly think that there was so much build up on that MAP sensor that it could not be removed and that's why it broke. I thought the intake Manifold was cast into the valve cover, is this not correct and if not GREAT I'll take it off today while the wife is napping. So I guess my ? now is, IS the Intake Manifold a separate piece from the valve cover on this engine or will i still need to remove the valve cover to get to it.

geordi · **Posted:** Mon Dec 24, 2012 9:42 pm

Have you downloaded the Factory Service Manual that should be linked in the NOOB guide thread?

The valve cover and the upper intake are the same hunk of aluminum. It is a stupid design, I'll be the first to say. The valve cover is ALSO the carrier for the camshafts, so you WILL need to lock the cam gears with the proper clamp in order to break the 80 lbs of torque that center bolt holds them with. Then you can continue past everything you should have removed for the timing job, to remove the inner timing cover... And finally set that aside and start disassembling the fuel rail and injectors.

Yes, you DO have to remove the fuel rail and the injectors in order to pull the cover. It sucks. You **MIGHT** be able to remove the injectors without anything special, by disconnecting the high pressure lines from the fuel rail, and use the line to help "wiggle" and rotate the injector in place after you have removed the crow-foot clamp that holds them down. The injectors are ONLY held in place by that crows foot, with a copper crush washer at the bottom (in the head) and an o-ring designed to help keep filth out. I doubt that will be the case, mine were filthy.

Once you get the valve cover off, you will have the top of the head looking at you, with all 16 lifters / rockers right there. They are not retained by anything other than gravity.

If you really are stuck with this, I am willing to discuss pulling the top end for you, and I have the tools needed to set your timing properly - it sounds to me like you might have done a 'mark-and-pray' kind of timing job? That is VERY dangerous on this engine.

In either case, that valve cover needs a severe cleaning. Diesel fuel makes an excellent cleaner, you just need to submerge the filthy sections in diesel for a day or so. You might also consider investing in a tune from GDE, that will eliminate the EGR soot that is a large part of that filth. The other part is the oil coming from the CCV - if you fill your oil until the dipstick reads 'full'... It is actually massively overfilled, and the excess just ends up in the intake, rotting your boost hoses and clogging up the works.

Merry Christmas and good luck.

saabflyer89 · **Posted:** Mon Dec 24, 2012 10:33 pm

Hey thanks for the input, I have borrowed the tools to lock the gears, cams, and engine to do the timing, then marked everything as instructed in the video from the gentleman from Colorado. I suspect there was soo much crap built up around the cage of the MAP sensor that I could not pull it out properly, as I have removed the short elbow piece on the intake, and found it to be horrid!!! I guess my biggest question now is, if I remove the valve cover and injectors what is the right way to clear the air out of the fuel rail and re-prime the system before restarting. Would I use the priming pump on the fuel filter or what? Thanks for offering to come and help, I lost my job about 2 weeks ago and only a week after buying this jeep, so I really can't afford to pay someone to fix it unless I am completely lost. Thanks again for your help and I hope you have a great Christmas Day tomorrow.

geordi · **Posted:** Tue Dec 25, 2012 12:31 am

Ouch, sorry to hear about your job - That really is a scummy Grinch thing to pull at the holidays, you probably didn't want to work there anyway.

With regard to pulling the injectors and re-priming after, there isn't anything easy that you can try, the fuel rail cannot be externally pressurized. That said, I got mine to crank over and fire with only about 10-12 seconds of cranking (in short bursts, no more than 3 seconds each) and it WILL re-fill the fuel rail by itself.

You could leave the #4 hard line a little loose (while tightening the rest) as a way to purge the air, but it WILL make a huge mess of diesel almost instantly when you start cranking. Three different times of reassembling my fuel rail, I only did the 'leave-it-loose' trick once, it didn't seem to help decrease the cranking time.

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