By-Pass Oil Filtration

amslube · **Posted:** Tue Nov 27, 2012 6:11 pm

I was just reading on another post about rocker damage and it was thought it could be caused by soot in the oil. As you can see in my signature I have an oil by-pass filtration system installed on my wife's CRD. Here is a link to some pictures of where and how I have it mounted: http://www.syntheticlubes.com/crd_bypass.html

striperman36 · **Posted:** Tue Nov 27, 2012 8:40 pm

Do you have a link to the unit you installed? replacing the original oil filter with an adapter to run up to your location seems like a good idea.

Be interested in more information.

woodtick · **Posted:** Tue Nov 27, 2012 9:10 pm

How much is a setup like that? How long do the filters last? Are the bypass filters used in conguction with or instead of standard?

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Tue Nov 27, 2012 9:39 pm

Another way of cleaning up bypass oil posted in April 2010:
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=51648&hilit=centrifuge

The centrifuge is still going and works better with the Amsoil AMO 10W-40 than it did with the thinner Rotella T-6 5W-40 oil. With the Amsoil high zink AMO 10W-40, I can hear the centrifuge wind down when I shut off the engine as long as I have broken idle, even backing out of the driveway and pulling back in to go in the house for something my wife forgot. With Rotella T-6 5W-40 that did not list zinc the last time I checked, I had to be going at least 35 MPH and pull into the driveway fast before I could hear the centrifuge wind down.
Since I switched to Amsoil AMO 10W-40 my turbo shaft is even tighter than it was on Rotella T-6 5W-40. I have seen a paralel between Turbo Failure and rocker failure, might be the crapp oil Chrysler recommended that VM ate humble pie and gritted their teeth on like the larger dampener springs the Should Have Been Stock Euro Torque Converter got years after VM recommend them.
The Bean Counter Engineers can stuff there Lame Academic Arguments about the virtues of using thin oil where the Sun Does Not Shine. The VM 2.8L was designed to run on 10W-40 Synthetic oil that has a Zinc additive and CI4+ specs. The Zinc helps protect the rockers where they meet the camshaft. The CI4+ spec oil helps keep soot from clogging up oil passages to the Turbo and rockers. Any less of an oil is a disillusion.
A good oil filter like the Amsoil EAO-34, along with either a Bypass Filter or Centrifuge will remove a lot of the soot and keep it out of your oil passages making the rockers last longer.
Run Mobil 1 0W-40 with a Fram oil filter like this one: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XRRgw4B7 ... h_response
You better buy your rockers by the pallet load, see if you get a good price. :ROTFL:

ORM or SEGR to shut off the EGR, will reduce the soot load in your engine too.
The EPA Goon Lawyers who require EGR and not allow other tricks to reduce NOX should be forced to eat their own crap on C-Span. :pepper:

amslube · **Posted:** Tue Nov 27, 2012 10:24 pm

Here is a link to more information about the AMSOIL bypass system: http://www.syntheticlubes.com/amsoil_by-pass_oil_filtration.html

A full flow oil filter is used in conjunction with the by-pass oil filter. 100% of the oil flows through the full flow filter. A restrictor limits about 10% flow through the by-pass filter. The AMSOIL EAO15 used for the full flow filter is a 20 micron 98.7% efficiency oil filter and the EABP90 for the bypass element is a 2 micron element. I change the full flow filter once a year and the by-pass filter every other year. I change the oil every 2 years (AMSOIL Series 3000 HDD 5W-30). We do about 12-14K miles per year on the Jeep.

Parts:
BMK23 - Dual filter mount
BK295 - Spin-on adapter
EAO15 - Full flow oil filter
EABP90 - By-pass filter

Retail pricing is available by following the above link. PM me for Preferred Customer pricing, about 25% off retail.

MtnClimber · **Posted:** Wed Nov 28, 2012 3:56 pm

I see that the hardest part in adding the dual remote filter setup is fabbing up a mounting bracket. I may have to look into this at some point next year as funds allow.

striperman36 · **Posted:** Wed Nov 28, 2012 4:12 pm

Need a welder in South Eastern MA unless you can fab this out of aluminum and 80/20 extrusion.

crd260 · **Joined:** Mon Oct 29, 2012 2:28 pm **Posts:** 103

That system is nice, but I would be worried about dripping oil during filter changes

I plan to keep the stock flow thru filter where it is, and plumb in a single bypass somewhere underneath the vehicle.

amslube · **Posted:** Wed Nov 28, 2012 6:04 pm

I put a plastic bag around each filter when I remove them. Since the filters are mounted vertically, very little oil is lost.

The single by-pass is also a good unit. You will need to find an oil supply, either from an oil galley or put a tee in where the oil pressure sending unit is, and a return. You may be able to fabricate a fitting into the oil filler cap or somewhere in the valve cover for the return. That is why the dual unit is so nice - the oil supply and return are provided by the spin-on adapter.

crd260 · **Joined:** Mon Oct 29, 2012 2:28 pm **Posts:** 103

what about T-ing into the turbo oil return?

amslube · **Posted:** Wed Nov 28, 2012 8:17 pm

I don't think that would be a good idea. The By-pass unit has a restrictor port on it to limit oil flow through the unit. Limiting the oil flow/volume through the turbo would not be good. You want as much oil flow through the turbo both for lubrication and cooling. From what I have read on this forum there are plugs on the oil galley located somewhere on the block if, I remember correctly, on the same galley that the turbo supply is sourced from. Maybe someone can chime in here...

crd260 · **Joined:** Mon Oct 29, 2012 2:28 pm **Posts:** 103

no, I mean....

sourcing the oil by Ting into the oil pressure sender, and returning the oil by Ting into the tubro return.

amslube · **Posted:** Wed Nov 28, 2012 8:46 pm

I would prefer to stay away from the turbo. Even teeing into the turbo return can create some back pressure and restrict oil flow through the turbo. A great place for a return would be to remove one of the plugs in the valve cover where the cam pins go when doing a timing belt replacement and installing a return fitting there.

For the bypass filter on my 2011 Cummins I have the return line fitting in the oil filler cap.

Hoosier CRD · **Posted:** Thu Nov 29, 2012 6:57 am

warp2diesel wrote:

The VM 2.8L was designed to run on 10W-40 Synthetic oil that has a Zinc additive and CI4+ specs. The Zinc helps protect the rockers where they meet the camshaft. The CI4+ spec oil helps keep soot from clogging up oil passages to the Turbo and rockers. Any less of an oil is a disillusion.

Warp, that is great information. How did you learn of this aspect of the VM engine design? Thanks.

bigjl · **Joined:** Fri Jan 11, 2013 7:38 pm **Posts:** 50

Hoosier CRD wrote:

warp2diesel wrote:

The VM 2.8L was designed to run on 10W-40 Synthetic oil that has a Zinc additive and CI4+ specs. The Zinc helps protect the rockers where they meet the camshaft. The CI4+ spec oil helps keep soot from clogging up oil passages to the Turbo and rockers. Any less of an oil is a disillusion.

Warp, that is great information. How did you learn of this aspect of the VM engine design? Thanks.

This information is widely available in the UK.

Perhaps an advantage in the number of years they out the two versions of the VM engine in the Cherokee for the UK market, the engine was also fitted to other vehicles.

Not sure I agree about not using 0w40 Mobil 1 though, many London Taxis with the VM engine run on Mobil 1 0w40.

Though I clicked on the link about the bypass and was surprised to see that it is run on 5w30 oil.

Not sure I would do that if I am honest.

But of it works who am I to disagree.

If it works, it works!

amslube · **Posted:** Sat Jan 12, 2013 5:59 pm

I recently received my oil analysis report from Oil Analyzers. I added a link to the report on my page with the pictures of my bypass unit here: http://www.syntheticlubes.com/crd_bypass.html

I added the bypass system and the AMSOIL Series 3000 5W-30HDD CI-4+ Oil when I got the Jeep almost 5 years ago with 17,500 miles on the clock. My oil and filter maintenance schedule: I replace the full flow filter (EAO15) at 1 year intervals and the by-pass filter (EABP90) and oil at 2 year intervals. This is the first oil analysis I've done on the Jeep.

Some points to note:
There are 21,565 miles and 22 months on the oil sample.
Note the .8% soot level. Oil Analyzers states on their website 2% is normal for any diesel engine.
Note Zinc and Phosphorus amounts in PPM. This is an adequate amount of anti wear additives. Hopefully will promote rocker and turbo life.
Note viscosity: This is in the center of the range for a 30 weight oil. Indicates virtually no volitility, sludge formation, or high sool levels which would drive the viscosity up and no shear back or oil breakdown which would drive the viscosity down.
Also note Oil Analyzers comments.

Glend · **Posted:** Sat Jan 12, 2013 7:43 pm

IMHO running oil for 22 months might be an interesting exercise in what might be possible, if your prepared to spend money on that kind of setup, and sacrifice the Provent space for the filters, but is it worth the effort and for what gain? That sort of system would seem to be ideal for long haul big rigs that need to be on the road all the time doing 10's of thousands of miles on long oil change intervals. On a KJ CRD it's just overkill.

I too have my oil tested from time to time and running my plain old handbook recommended CF rated 5w-40 synthetic my soot levels hang around below 0.4 (yes I run a GDE tune and have EGR blocked as well). All my wear particle scores are well in the green in all categories. Changing the oil on a regular interval with a low cost CF oil is not a big deal.

There is a point where obsessive maintenance is not worth the return on our time and $, but each of us has to make the decision for themselves. I applaude the amslube research effort but it seems like a marketing exercise.

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Sat Jan 12, 2013 10:40 pm

bigjl wrote:

Hoosier CRD wrote:

warp2diesel wrote:

The VM 2.8L was designed to run on 10W-40 Synthetic oil that has a Zinc additive and CI4+ specs. The Zinc helps protect the rockers where they meet the camshaft. The CI4+ spec oil helps keep soot from clogging up oil passages to the Turbo and rockers. Any less of an oil is a disillusion.

Warp, that is great information. How did you learn of this aspect of the VM engine design? Thanks.

This information is widely available in the UK.

Perhaps an advantage in the number of years they out the two versions of the VM engine in the Cherokee for the UK market, the engine was also fitted to other vehicles.

Not sure I agree about not using 0w40 Mobil 1 though, many London Taxis with the VM engine run on Mobil 1 0w40.

Though I clicked on the link about the bypass and was surprised to see that it is run on 5w30 oil.

Not sure I would do that if I am honest.

But of it works who am I to disagree.

If it works, it works!

My CRD using Amsoil AMO 10W-40 and a Sears P1 starts at -15F with out being plugged in when parked at Midway Airport in Chicago. Chrysler can take their 0W-40 Mobil 1 recommendation and put it where the sun never shines. Chrysler pulled the 0W-40 stunt to try to get slightly higher mileage at the expense of engine life. On the Chrysler Bean Counter spread sheets, it looks nice along with all the parts sales adding to their bottom line. Chrysler is not the only company to make stupid recommendations, Toyota & BMW did back in the 80s & 90s and sold a lot of camshafts.

bigjl · **Joined:** Fri Jan 11, 2013 7:38 pm **Posts:** 50

0w40 is a viscosity recommended when the smaller 2.5 VM engine is used in London Taxis.

That viscosity or 5w40 are both specced to optimise engine protection, performance and economy with the info coming direct from VM, not Jeep or the London Taxi Company.

Standard viscosity is 10w40 semi synth. Though UOA by a cab trade garage has shown full synth is better for engine health.

They ran one 14k, or rather the owner did, and they pulled a sample and had it analysed, it showed that the 5w40 full synth still had some life in it.

I don't think the same thing would have happened on semi synth to be honest.

If you feel VM are less than knowledgable on such things then I don't think I will convince you otherwise.

0w40 is the same at operating temps as 5 w40 or 10w40, but it will flow better when cold and wi probably warm up slightly quicker aswell.

As a minimum it will be easier to turn over when cold.

bigjl · **Joined:** Fri Jan 11, 2013 7:38 pm **Posts:** 50

Can't believe that you still have TBN of 4.68 after over 20k miles!

What made you wish to try 5w30 viscosity?

If this is an example of what to expect with a bypass and a CI 4 HDEO then I think this is the way to go for this engine.

By-Pass Oil Filtration

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