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 Post subject: New Injectors and Head, Best Way to Bleed Fuel System
PostPosted: Sat Oct 07, 2017 2:33 am 
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Joined: Thu Jan 07, 2016 2:19 pm
Posts: 23
Location: Shelton, WA
Hi,

Just got done with a TB belt failure at 96K. 11 rockers shot, no cam damage. Replaced head and also rebuilt injectors. Got lots of help from this list, hat tip all. Now how is the best way to bleed the common rail system if needed?

thx

_________________
Purchased 2006 LIberty CRD 82,000 Sport 2016.01.06
Since purchase:
Sam's NOOB Checklist Completed
SS Cat Back Exhaust, Full EGR Delete, EH Mod to Provent, Michelin 245/70 R16 AT/2
Stock Tune, Serpentine Belt Service,160 Amp Alternator
10/2017 96K, New Head, Injectors, ARP Studs...


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 Post subject: Re: New Injectors and Head, Best Way to Bleed Fuel System
PostPosted: Sat Oct 07, 2017 8:24 am 
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Location: Tallahassee, Florida
Bleed fuel filter head like normal. Then you can either 1) crank engine for like 15 seconds; wait 30 seconds; repeat several times; should start but might be rough for first minute or so or 2) crack fuel line to #4 injector; bump starter but do NOT start engine; repeat until fuel flows from #4 line (use paper towels to contain mess) close line and start; again might run rough for a minute or so.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs


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 Post subject: Re: New Injectors and Head, Best Way to Bleed Fuel System
PostPosted: Sat Oct 07, 2017 11:50 am 
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I'd get secondary filtration in there to protect those new injectors :JEEPIN:
How much the rebuild run? At 200k I'm looking for the cheapest option for all new/rebuilt injectors myself. Cheap insurance to avoid a melted piston I figure, plus I have a rough idle due to one of them

_________________
05 CRD: H.D.S2 stat,OME lift, JBA UCA's, GDE tunes ,Truetrac front,FFD fan,ARP's, new head,rockers, cams,sasquatch battery tray & grid heater, Suncoast TC, welded EGR port & trans drain, muffler delete,1.5" wheel spacers & longer studs
Mech fan, VH & AC delete (4 pulleys removed), tensioner relocated
-CRD's being restored


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 Post subject: Re: New Injectors and Head, Best Way to Bleed Fuel System
PostPosted: Sat Oct 07, 2017 11:57 am 
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Posts: 3369
Location: Central GA
Mountainman wrote:
I'd get secondary filtration in there to protect those new injectors :JEEPIN:
How much the rebuild run? At 200k I'm looking for the cheapest option for all new/rebuilt injectors myself. Cheap insurance to avoid a melted piston I figure, plus I have a rough idle due to one of them

Very Good Advice!!! :rockon:

_________________
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited :JEEPIN:
Blk Brush Guard/Hella's/LED's
Ironman Springs/Bilstein's
Yeti Stg4 MaxTune
Weeks ElbowKit/Battery Tray
NO FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pump
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NOcat
V6 Airbox
GM11 blade fan/Hayden HD clutch
Ironrock Trilink
98 Dodge Cummins, 5"exh. Viair,K&N


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 Post subject: Re: New Injectors and Head, Best Way to Bleed Fuel System
PostPosted: Sat Oct 07, 2017 3:56 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jan 07, 2016 2:19 pm
Posts: 23
Location: Shelton, WA
Mountainman wrote:
I'd get secondary filtration in there to protect those new injectors :JEEPIN:
How much the rebuild run? At 200k I'm looking for the cheapest option for all new/rebuilt injectors myself. Cheap insurance to avoid a melted piston I figure, plus I have a rough idle due to one of them


Just started it a few minutes ago, she runs well!!! Had a loose injector line, fixed, and an oil leak, read on.

I used Oregon Injection, 375.00 per injector. At 96K my injectors tested at 3.2+, spec is 1.0 to 1.5. OI told me to change them! OI said one bad tank of water/diesel can destroy the injectors. They see 150 to 250K on these injectors depending on fuel and if you run a premium additive. I get my cummins injectors rebuilt from OI. Funny thing is they don't rebuild the jeep injectors (everything else they rebuild). They get the rebuilt injectors direct from Bosch and resell. Head was 1785.00. It was 4K+ in parts, labor was all me and this awesome list.

What kind of secondary filtration, been thinking an AirDog 150.

ALSO my turbo supply like is leaking horribly at the block connection? Need a new line?

_________________
Purchased 2006 LIberty CRD 82,000 Sport 2016.01.06
Since purchase:
Sam's NOOB Checklist Completed
SS Cat Back Exhaust, Full EGR Delete, EH Mod to Provent, Michelin 245/70 R16 AT/2
Stock Tune, Serpentine Belt Service,160 Amp Alternator
10/2017 96K, New Head, Injectors, ARP Studs...


Top
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 Post subject: Re: New Injectors and Head, Best Way to Bleed Fuel System
PostPosted: Sat Oct 07, 2017 4:26 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 22, 2015 8:07 pm
Posts: 339
Location: Southeast Michigan
vwroad87 wrote:
ALSO my turbo supply like is leaking horribly at the block connection? Need a new line?
First see if it's loose.


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 Post subject: Re: New Injectors and Head, Best Way to Bleed Fuel System
PostPosted: Sat Oct 07, 2017 5:14 pm 
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Posts: 5282
Location: Tallahassee, Florida
The block end of the turbo oil supply line is basically a "ball and socket" joint. The "socket" is a fitting screwed into the block; if it's like the plugs in the other oil gallery holes it's screwed in REALLY tight and should not leak. The "ball" is at the block end of the oil supply line with a "nut" fitted above it on the supply line; the ball is placed in the socket and the nut is screwed down on the outer threads of the socket to hold the ball in place and keep oil from leaking. I suspect that nut is a bit loose or the ball is slightly off center as if things are buttoned up tight there should be no leaks unless there is a gouge (unlikely) in the ball or socket.

_________________
Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs


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 Post subject: Re: New Injectors and Head, Best Way to Bleed Fuel System
PostPosted: Sat Oct 07, 2017 8:35 pm 
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Joined: Sat Aug 24, 2013 11:36 pm
Posts: 3369
Location: Central GA
vwroad87 wrote:
Mountainman wrote:
I'd get secondary filtration in there to protect those new injectors :JEEPIN:
How much the rebuild run? At 200k I'm looking for the cheapest option for all new/rebuilt injectors myself. Cheap insurance to avoid a melted piston I figure, plus I have a rough idle due to one of them


Just started it a few minutes ago, she runs well!!! Had a loose injector line, fixed, and an oil leak, read on.

I used Oregon Injection, 375.00 per injector. At 96K my injectors tested at 3.2+, spec is 1.0 to 1.5. OI told me to change them! OI said one bad tank of water/diesel can destroy the injectors. They see 150 to 250K on these injectors depending on fuel and if you run a premium additive. I get my cummins injectors rebuilt from OI. Funny thing is they don't rebuild the jeep injectors (everything else they rebuild). They get the rebuilt injectors direct from Bosch and resell. Head was 1785.00. It was 4K+ in parts, labor was all me and this awesome list.

What kind of secondary filtration, been thinking an AirDog 150.

ALSO my turbo supply like is leaking horribly at the block connection? Need a new line?

See this thread! Does require an in-tank fuel pump to function properly....
viewtopic.php?f=98&t=80139

_________________
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited :JEEPIN:
Blk Brush Guard/Hella's/LED's
Ironman Springs/Bilstein's
Yeti Stg4 MaxTune
Weeks ElbowKit/Battery Tray
NO FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pump
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NOcat
V6 Airbox
GM11 blade fan/Hayden HD clutch
Ironrock Trilink
98 Dodge Cummins, 5"exh. Viair,K&N


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 Post subject: Re: New Injectors and Head, Best Way to Bleed Fuel System
PostPosted: Sat Oct 07, 2017 9:10 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 23, 2013 8:57 pm
Posts: 1953
Location: Garden Valley, Idaho
joe_ wrote:
vwroad87 wrote:
ALSO my turbo supply like is leaking horribly at the block connection? Need a new line?
First see if it's loose.


I follow wwdiesel on filtration. Usually it's the gromet on the return that leaks. Actually I've never seen the supply leak on theblock end. It is tough to get right though. I recently cut a 22mm wrench in half just for that one fitting :5SHOTS:

_________________
05 CRD: H.D.S2 stat,OME lift, JBA UCA's, GDE tunes ,Truetrac front,FFD fan,ARP's, new head,rockers, cams,sasquatch battery tray & grid heater, Suncoast TC, welded EGR port & trans drain, muffler delete,1.5" wheel spacers & longer studs
Mech fan, VH & AC delete (4 pulleys removed), tensioner relocated
-CRD's being restored


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 Post subject: Re: New Injectors and Head, Best Way to Bleed Fuel System
PostPosted: Sat Oct 07, 2017 11:11 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 23, 2013 8:57 pm
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Location: Garden Valley, Idaho
And thanks for the price!
I always wonder about the injector tests, because so many fail yet the jeeps run fine???

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05 CRD: H.D.S2 stat,OME lift, JBA UCA's, GDE tunes ,Truetrac front,FFD fan,ARP's, new head,rockers, cams,sasquatch battery tray & grid heater, Suncoast TC, welded EGR port & trans drain, muffler delete,1.5" wheel spacers & longer studs
Mech fan, VH & AC delete (4 pulleys removed), tensioner relocated
-CRD's being restored


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 Post subject: Re: New Injectors and Head, Best Way to Bleed Fuel System
PostPosted: Sun Oct 08, 2017 12:52 am 
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Joined: Thu Jan 07, 2016 2:19 pm
Posts: 23
Location: Shelton, WA
papaindigo wrote:
The block end of the turbo oil supply line is basically a "ball and socket" joint. The "socket" is a fitting screwed into the block; if it's like the plugs in the other oil gallery holes it's screwed in REALLY tight and should not leak. The "ball" is at the block end of the oil supply line with a "nut" fitted above it on the supply line; the ball is placed in the socket and the nut is screwed down on the outer threads of the socket to hold the ball in place and keep oil from leaking. I suspect that nut is a bit loose or the ball is slightly off center as if things are buttoned up tight there should be no leaks unless there is a gouge (unlikely) in the ball or socket.


Hey thanks, got it on the lift and my install wasn't close, had to pry/wiggle/pull the tube gently as I tighten the 22mm nut down, it's 100% now.

_________________
Purchased 2006 LIberty CRD 82,000 Sport 2016.01.06
Since purchase:
Sam's NOOB Checklist Completed
SS Cat Back Exhaust, Full EGR Delete, EH Mod to Provent, Michelin 245/70 R16 AT/2
Stock Tune, Serpentine Belt Service,160 Amp Alternator
10/2017 96K, New Head, Injectors, ARP Studs...


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 Post subject: Re: New Injectors and Head, Best Way to Bleed Fuel System
PostPosted: Sun Oct 08, 2017 1:20 am 
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Joined: Thu Jan 07, 2016 2:19 pm
Posts: 23
Location: Shelton, WA
WWDiesel wrote:
See this thread! Does require an in-tank fuel pump to function properly....
viewtopic.php?f=98&t=80139


Okay I'll do this filter mod too. Really a little tired of wrenching, need a brake from the rig now that it's running again. I drove it to Vancouver BC from Shelton WA to pick up my pyrenean sheppard pup I've been waiting for over 3.5 years. On the way back at 11:30 pm the belt broke 180 miles from home, good person saw my situation and took me all the way home with the new pup. The broken belt really put a damper on the pup experience but today I have redemption now that the beast is running again. She sounds so great again. I need to take the tranny out and rebuild it, that is what i did to put my way through school back in the day. Been building C4s for the hot rodders lately for trade. I'll post my rebuild of the tranny for those interested.

So once again thanks to the people on this list for all the help!!

_________________
Purchased 2006 LIberty CRD 82,000 Sport 2016.01.06
Since purchase:
Sam's NOOB Checklist Completed
SS Cat Back Exhaust, Full EGR Delete, EH Mod to Provent, Michelin 245/70 R16 AT/2
Stock Tune, Serpentine Belt Service,160 Amp Alternator
10/2017 96K, New Head, Injectors, ARP Studs...


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: New Injectors and Head, Best Way to Bleed Fuel System
PostPosted: Sun Oct 08, 2017 2:06 pm 
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Joined: Sat Aug 24, 2013 11:36 pm
Posts: 3369
Location: Central GA
vwroad87 wrote:
Okay I'll do this filter mod too. Really a little tired of wrenching, need a brake from the rig now that it's running again. I drove it to Vancouver BC from Shelton WA to pick up my pyrenean sheppard pup I've been waiting for over 3.5 years. On the way back at 11:30 pm the belt broke 180 miles from home, good person saw my situation and took me all the way home with the new pup. The broken belt really put a damper on the pup experience but today I have redemption now that the beast is running again. She sounds so great again. I need to take the tranny out and rebuild it, that is what i did to put my way through school back in the day. Been building C4s for the hot rodders lately for trade. I'll post my rebuild of the tranny for those interested.
So once again thanks to the people on this list for all the help!!

I am sure as an experienced transmission builder you know to replace the front pump assembly if you remove the transmission. They are known for having wear issues in the plunger bores! The new pump assemblies are an improved design as well and require a different front cover that normally comes with the pump assembly...
And also consider updating the torque converter to either a Hemi or better aftermarket TC like a SunCoast while you have it out. The stock TC's are known for being weak and problematic especially if you reflash the OBC and increase the engine torque/HP output. :wink:
If you search on LOST, lots of information and threads about Torque Converter considerations and options....

:SOMBRERO:

_________________
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited :JEEPIN:
Blk Brush Guard/Hella's/LED's
Ironman Springs/Bilstein's
Yeti Stg4 MaxTune
Weeks ElbowKit/Battery Tray
NO FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pump
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NOcat
V6 Airbox
GM11 blade fan/Hayden HD clutch
Ironrock Trilink
98 Dodge Cummins, 5"exh. Viair,K&N


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: New Injectors and Head, Best Way to Bleed Fuel System
PostPosted: Mon Oct 09, 2017 11:04 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jan 07, 2016 2:19 pm
Posts: 23
Location: Shelton, WA
WWDiesel wrote:
vwroad87 wrote:
Okay I'll do this filter mod too. Really a little tired of wrenching, need a brake from the rig now that it's running again. I drove it to Vancouver BC from Shelton WA to pick up my pyrenean sheppard pup I've been waiting for over 3.5 years. On the way back at 11:30 pm the belt broke 180 miles from home, good person saw my situation and took me all the way home with the new pup. The broken belt really put a damper on the pup experience but today I have redemption now that the beast is running again. She sounds so great again. I need to take the tranny out and rebuild it, that is what i did to put my way through school back in the day. Been building C4s for the hot rodders lately for trade. I'll post my rebuild of the tranny for those interested.
So once again thanks to the people on this list for all the help!!

I am sure as an experienced transmission builder you know to replace the front pump assembly if you remove the transmission. They are known for having wear issues in the plunger bores! The new pump assemblies are an improved design as well and require a different front cover that normally comes with the pump assembly...
And also consider updating the torque converter to either a Hemi or better aftermarket TC like a SunCoast while you have it out. The stock TC's are known for being weak and problematic especially if you reflash the OBC and increase the engine torque/HP output. :wink:
If you search on LOST, lots of information and threads about Torque Converter considerations and options....

:SOMBRERO:


Roger on the front pump assembly, thanks for the pro tip. Usually pump bodies are reusable unless the gears or TC grenades. They are just not making trannies like they use to C4/C6 and turbo 350/400 were pretty much bullet proof. Got a Florida TC that they specifically build for our CRDs, not cheap. Full rebuild kit and shift kit 2.

Test drove the beast and she's got no power as if it's a plugged fuel filter but that is only 2 months old with low miles. Got a P1189 code, really hard to make sense of this code on the forums. She's definitely in limp mode. ?

_________________
Purchased 2006 LIberty CRD 82,000 Sport 2016.01.06
Since purchase:
Sam's NOOB Checklist Completed
SS Cat Back Exhaust, Full EGR Delete, EH Mod to Provent, Michelin 245/70 R16 AT/2
Stock Tune, Serpentine Belt Service,160 Amp Alternator
10/2017 96K, New Head, Injectors, ARP Studs...


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: New Injectors and Head, Best Way to Bleed Fuel System
PostPosted: Mon Oct 09, 2017 11:24 pm 
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Joined: Sat Aug 24, 2013 11:36 pm
Posts: 3369
Location: Central GA
vwroad87 wrote:
Roger on the front pump assembly, thanks for the pro tip. Usually pump bodies are reusable unless the gears or TC grenades. They are just not making trannies like they use to C4/C6 and turbo 350/400 were pretty much bullet proof. Got a Florida TC that they specifically build for our CRDs, not cheap. Full rebuild kit and shift kit 2.

Test drove the beast and she's got no power as if it's a plugged fuel filter but that is only 2 months old with low miles. Got a P1189 code, really hard to make sense of this code on the forums. She's definitely in limp mode. ?

P1189 - unplugged air pressure sensor on side of airbox
P1189 is for the small sensor on the side of the air box lid. Could be a bad connector or broke wire as well...

It is a totally different sensor than the MAP sensor that is on top of the intake manifold!

The IAP Mercedes Logo Sensor 05101120ab is mounted on the inlet side of air filter box housing (pre-filter) and is attached with two small screws!

This is what it generally looks like:

Image

_________________
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited :JEEPIN:
Blk Brush Guard/Hella's/LED's
Ironman Springs/Bilstein's
Yeti Stg4 MaxTune
Weeks ElbowKit/Battery Tray
NO FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pump
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NOcat
V6 Airbox
GM11 blade fan/Hayden HD clutch
Ironrock Trilink
98 Dodge Cummins, 5"exh. Viair,K&N


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 Post subject: Re: New Injectors and Head, Best Way to Bleed Fuel System
PostPosted: Mon Oct 09, 2017 11:27 pm 
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Joined: Sat Aug 27, 2016 9:12 pm
Posts: 1394
Location: N. Muddle Oregon Coast
Have you checked this?

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=46532

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'06 Lbrty Sprt CRD 148Kmi

Sasquatch
DSS Turbo
CAT-elimntr
Weeks Stg1&2 EGRfix
PV-200
BLING
vent gauges

IDParts
head
cams
rockers
Timing set
ARP studs
eTn1 GX2123 5v GPs

Flowmaster 942550
Carter P76611M
GM 12611872
Hayden 2986
GM 15017911
PATC Custom Billet
2010 Ram Hemi Trans
Sonnax 44957
Transgo kit
Cooper 51770

Future plans: GDE Trans tune


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 Post subject: Re: New Injectors and Head, Best Way to Bleed Fuel System
PostPosted: Mon Oct 09, 2017 11:32 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jan 07, 2016 2:19 pm
Posts: 23
Location: Shelton, WA
WWDiesel wrote:
vwroad87 wrote:
Roger on the front pump assembly, thanks for the pro tip. Usually pump bodies are reusable unless the gears or TC grenades. They are just not making trannies like they use to C4/C6 and turbo 350/400 were pretty much bullet proof. Got a Florida TC that they specifically build for our CRDs, not cheap. Full rebuild kit and shift kit 2.

Test drove the beast and she's got no power as if it's a plugged fuel filter but that is only 2 months old with low miles. Got a P1189 code, really hard to make sense of this code on the forums. She's definitely in limp mode. ?

P1189 - unplugged air pressure sensor on side of airbox
P1189 is for the small sensor on the side of the air box lid. Could be a bad connector or broke wire as well...

It is a totally different sensor than the MAP sensor that is on top of the intake manifold!

The IAP Mercedes Logo Sensor 05101120ab is mounted on the inlet side of air filter box housing (pre-filter) and is attached with two small screws!



Hey thanks for the update! I'll check out the sensor and connector tomorrow, I'll assume that's causing limp mode because before the TB grenaded hence the new head (just because) and injectors (failed testing)... the beast was full power!

_________________
Purchased 2006 LIberty CRD 82,000 Sport 2016.01.06
Since purchase:
Sam's NOOB Checklist Completed
SS Cat Back Exhaust, Full EGR Delete, EH Mod to Provent, Michelin 245/70 R16 AT/2
Stock Tune, Serpentine Belt Service,160 Amp Alternator
10/2017 96K, New Head, Injectors, ARP Studs...


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: New Injectors and Head, Best Way to Bleed Fuel System
PostPosted: Mon Oct 09, 2017 11:33 pm 
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Joined: Sat Aug 24, 2013 11:36 pm
Posts: 3369
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GordnadoCRD wrote:

According to GDE, their tunes after 2010 have the air box sensor disabled!

According to vwroad87 signature, he has a Yeti Tune so it should still be connected and in service....
Hopefully he finds it just unplugged! :roll:

_________________
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited :JEEPIN:
Blk Brush Guard/Hella's/LED's
Ironman Springs/Bilstein's
Yeti Stg4 MaxTune
Weeks ElbowKit/Battery Tray
NO FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pump
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NOcat
V6 Airbox
GM11 blade fan/Hayden HD clutch
Ironrock Trilink
98 Dodge Cummins, 5"exh. Viair,K&N


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: New Injectors and Head, Best Way to Bleed Fuel System
PostPosted: Mon Oct 09, 2017 11:57 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jan 07, 2016 2:19 pm
Posts: 23
Location: Shelton, WA
WWDiesel wrote:
GordnadoCRD wrote:

According to GDE, their tunes after 2010 have the air box sensor disabled!

According to vwroad87 signature, he has a Yeti Tune so it should still be connected and in service....
Hopefully he finds it just unplugged! :roll:


Yes I did read that thread, gonna check that sensor in the morning, thanks again!

Also have factory tune for a while now because the TC was shuddering with yeti's mild tune. Will re-tune after tranny rebuild, will update sig now.

_________________
Purchased 2006 LIberty CRD 82,000 Sport 2016.01.06
Since purchase:
Sam's NOOB Checklist Completed
SS Cat Back Exhaust, Full EGR Delete, EH Mod to Provent, Michelin 245/70 R16 AT/2
Stock Tune, Serpentine Belt Service,160 Amp Alternator
10/2017 96K, New Head, Injectors, ARP Studs...


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: New Injectors and Head, Best Way to Bleed Fuel System
PostPosted: Tue Oct 10, 2017 2:27 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jan 07, 2016 2:19 pm
Posts: 23
Location: Shelton, WA
Okay code P1189 was the sensor WWDiesel suggested as did others, had to remove the sensor and muscle the connector on with both hands, all CELs gone, full power to rig restored.

Can't thank everyone enough for all the help, I'll try to help others as I am able to on this list with my experiences.

Hat tip to all one again

dp

_________________
Purchased 2006 LIberty CRD 82,000 Sport 2016.01.06
Since purchase:
Sam's NOOB Checklist Completed
SS Cat Back Exhaust, Full EGR Delete, EH Mod to Provent, Michelin 245/70 R16 AT/2
Stock Tune, Serpentine Belt Service,160 Amp Alternator
10/2017 96K, New Head, Injectors, ARP Studs...


Top
 Profile  
 
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