Hello - I'm working through the same replacement.

Does anyone know the proper orientation of the thrust washer behind the rear main seal?

Does the o-ring go towards the engine or towards the seal/transmission?

Thanks!

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2006 Jeep Liberty Sport CRD, GDE Eco Tune, EVIC, ARB Bumper, Smittybuilt Winch, JBA 3.5" kit, 4xGaurd and Skid Row, Limited Leather Seats
2006 Jeep Liberty Limited CRD, OME suspension
2015 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon, AEV 2.5" Lift w/Geo brackets and ProCal, Terraflex HD Tire Carrier, Maximus-3 plate, Smittybuilt Winch, Rigid Lights

The right way to remove the flexplate-to-hub bolts, in my opinion, is to drill them out. I've been through his process twice, now. Use something like a 4mm cobalt to pilot, centering up inside the torx depression. The pilot hole makes the larger hole easier to drill. Center is easy to feel inside those depressions, as there's a bit of a vee that will help guide the bit toward the center. Then come back with a 10mm or 11mm cobalt drill and go at it until you take the heads off. Keep the speed low, as you want the bit to last for all eight bolts.

Then, you can remove the flex plated and you'll find out that the remaining parts of the bolts come out easily using your fingertips, or maybe a pair of pliers. Regardless of what some are saying about loctite and the need for elevated temperatures, there doesn't appear to be anything locking the threads. Again, I've done this twice!

What I've listed above is what I recommend based on experience. I did it the first time with an angle grinder. Today I drilled them out with a 3/8 cobalt bit I had handy. Once I got to the right depth I simply hit the base of the heads with a chisel and hammer. If I had used a slightly larger 10mm or 11mm bit, I would simply drill until the heads came off.

MirageX
Owner of a variety of diesel vehicles.
Author of The Art of Diesel

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Bought CRD Jan 08.

Gentlemen,

Hello after long absence from forum. Been reading but not logging for a while and now I really need opinions, ideas, shortly said help.

The issue is 2.8 CRD crankshaft main seal, CMS; it has blown now three (3) times in a timeline of half a year. CVV has been replaced, no problem with crank bearings, installation done by professional garage and leaking again. I'm getting hopeless. Every idea and suggestion highly appreciated.

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Grumpy turtle from Finland, deep in a swamp at Balkans... Safe place in this unsafe world...

I dont have a fix for your problem.
All I can say is that is that I've lived with a rear main seal leak for many years and learned to manage it. Although the bottom side of the transmission is a mess, it does not leave oil drops on my driveway and the rate of oil loss is not a significant concern.

So, here's a tip:
Dont fill the oil level up to the top "full" line. Keep it at or slightly above the "add" line.
And if you're worried about the oil level being one quart low like that, switch to a larger oil filter.
I use the Motorcraft FL-1A but the Mobil 1 M1-301 is also popular and any filter equivalent to either of those two will work.
The larger sized filter will naturally hold more oil.

Although I haven't driven my CRD much this year, previous years I was averaging about 15,000 miles a year. Oil loss was about 1/2 quart every 4000 miles.
So, not a fix but its manageable.

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U.S. Army Retired

Unfortunately my leak is on unacceptable level, it marks its territory with big spot every time I stop. Even when idling, it starts dropping after couple of minutes. Was the leak like yours, I could live with it, but not with this sprayer.

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Grumpy turtle from Finland, deep in a swamp at Balkans... Safe place in this unsafe world...

Can't help but wonder if you have the same issue I did... or still do. Which I don't the cause of... but I pulled the motor, replaced everything, and hopefully will have it back together within a month or so. Fingers crossed the leak is solved.

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=90463

There are some photos of the original issue here:

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=85755

Is your CCV still connected to the turbo intake boot/hose? Do you have a ProVent filter installed in the CCV circuit?
Have you checked the turbo intake boot/hose to make sure it is not cracked or leaking not providing the correct vacuum to the CCV Puck?
Does yours have the elephant hose hack mod done to it? If so, it has been proven to cause rear main oil seal leakage.
The vacuum pump on this engine discharges directly into the crankcase adding to the flow load the CCV must handle.

You can also service or replace the CCV Puck that sits on top of the valve/cam cover.
If the CCV Puck is not functioning properly, or not connected to the turbo intake boot/hose, pressure can build up inside the engine crankcase and cause oil seal leakage. This engine requires by design the additional suction/vacuum from the turbo inlet for the CCV system to function properly.

See this for more information on how the CCV system functions on this engine:> viewtopic.php?p=847858#p847858

See this for disassembly and servicing the CCV Puck:> viewtopic.php?p=927939&sid=4b5929171c1e2aa8dc48c9938f5e8e45#p927939

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Supporting Vendor and Moderator of LOST
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
Ironman Springs/Bilstein/Shocks
Yeti StgIV Hot Tune
Week's BatteryTray
No FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pmp
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NO CAT
V6Airbox/noVH
GM11 Bld.fan/HDClutch
IronrockArms/wwdieselMount
98 Dodge Cummins 24 Valve

Thanks, WWDiesel. My CVV Puck on a top of valve cover is new, less than 2000km driven with it and system is stock, neither ProVent nor parts of trunked animal installed. Have to check those turbo hoses and others connected with crankcase breathing.

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Grumpy turtle from Finland, deep in a swamp at Balkans... Safe place in this unsafe world...