Significant OIl Leak

65Corvair · **Posted:** Tue Jan 15, 2013 11:47 pm

Today I went to drive to work and saw oil on the ground under my jeep, so I parked the jeep and drove the sunfire.

After work I took some time to see where my oil is leaking from. It appears to be leaking from between the engine and transmission. (See Pictures)

The purple wires are from when the dealer fixed the ABS, by bypassing the wires already in the jeep and routing their own...

but it works.

After doing some reading on here about blown rear main seals, http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=65046 this thread mentions that about a EHM and rear seals. But if for some reason your vent to atmosphere would be plugged, (my EHM was full of ice) the pressure from the blow-by has to go somewhere. And it appears that mine went out the rear main seal.

I read what to do in the service manual, so the transmission has to be taken out. But is that the hard part or is pulling and putting a new seal in more difficult? (it mentions VM tool 1050)

While the transmission is out I think it would be a good time to add a Euro/Suncoast torque converter. Anything else I should do?

TJ2 · **Posted:** Wed Jan 16, 2013 12:23 am

The preventative measure for this condition is to make some slits in the EH high up on the block where it can't freeze. So, when, not if around here, the lower end freezes the slits will provide pressure relief.

It's free and easy so I'd make the slits now and see if the leaks lessens, or by some miracle, stops leaking altogether.

good luck

GreenDieselEngineering · **Joined:** Sun Jun 07, 2009 5:10 pm **Posts:** 1111

When the block is pressurized from a frozen CCV hose, the rear main seal seems to be the weak link. The EHM mod is a bad idea in colder climates due to the potential freeze issue. Fix the hose, spray brake clean and clean up the oil leak, then monitor. If the leak reappears you will need a new rear main seal and a lot of spare cash.

bshooter · **Posted:** Wed Jan 16, 2013 10:47 am

This oil leak looks just like the oil leak I had. Turns out to be leaking from the CCV-Relief valve at the top of the motor on the passenger side. I found the seal-O-ring (2) failed. Oil was bubbling around the base of the CCV. I just bought a new CCV-Relief and 2 o-rings. If this helps you here is the part #s (2) o-rings #0511437AA and the CCV-Relief valve # 05114348AB. I hope its not the rear main seal. Good luck. bshooter

65Corvair · **Posted:** Thu Jan 17, 2013 11:35 pm

I cleaned it up and drove around some more. Oil is still coming from the seam between the engine and transmission, so it looks like that I am gonna start wrenchin' soon. When I get to do this I will try to take pictures and make a write up. I gonna follow what the service manual says unless I find a better option.

Here is what I am gonna order;
Rear Crankshaft Seal: 05066756AA
Euro Torque Converter: 68037142AA

If my transmission is running fine do I need a new front pump?

Anyone with any insight on pulling and replacing the rear seal?

Drewd · **Joined:** Mon Feb 06, 2006 12:24 pm **Posts:** 902

I'd replace the front pump if it doesn't have the newer one in it....its a quick job and worthwhile if you are upgrading the torque converter.

Sorry, can't help you on rear seal other than I had an oil leak from top rear of engine (equivalent to valve cover gasket) and it dribbled down on the tranny/engine appearing exactly as a rear main seal leak. I discovered it by putting dye in the oil and running it for a week and then using a black light which allowed me to find the culprit source of the oil leak.

65Corvair · **Posted:** Fri Jan 18, 2013 12:48 am

The number I found for the pump is 05073004AD.

65Corvair · **Posted:** Tue Jan 22, 2013 11:02 am

Some progress on removing the transmission. So far I got all the driveshafts off, electrical connecters off, the cross-member off, the 4 top most bell housing bolts out, and the starter off. I am having issues getting a wrench on the harmonic balancer bolt to rotate the engine. Also shown here in the shop manual, #2 the engine to transmission collar, do out engine/trans have one of these? I was unable to find it. If there is no removable section, are the torque converter bolts accessed through the starter hole?

papaindigo · **Posted:** Tue Jan 22, 2013 11:30 am

See steps 12-13 in the attached link http://www.greendieselengineering.com/f ... st/37.page for TC bolts. The front crankshaft bolt that's used to rotate the engine is a 21mm although a 13/16 might work. Be sure to turn things clockwise only. Your best bet is a socket, not a wrench, maybe with a short extension if the dampener is still mounted and using a fairly long socket wrench as it's a stiff pull, ideally something like 18" with a racheting head. Mind your knuckles if the socket wrench slips, leather gloves help.

65Corvair · **Posted:** Fri Jan 25, 2013 4:18 pm

Last night I was able to get the transmission and the transfer case out of the jeep. Once the engine and trans were separated, more enigne oil started coming out from between the two. Tomorrow I will be working to get the flexplate off, pull the old seal, install new rear seal and then reinstall the flexplate. While I have the transmission out from the jeep it will get a Eruo TC, new style front pump, a TransGo shiftkit, and a drain plug, along with a filter change. If people want pictures of certain things while I have this apart please let me know and I will try to get them.

Gokeeper · **Posted:** Fri Jan 25, 2013 5:26 pm

If you find you need the seal installer VM.1050 let me know we can work something out I am in Allen, Ne Should be overnight to your location.

MRausch82 · **Posted:** Fri Jan 25, 2013 7:48 pm

The most recent p/n for the pump appears to be RL009879AE.

65Corvair · **Posted:** Mon Jan 28, 2013 12:20 am

I am having a major issue with getting the bolts on the flex plate off. I have broken 5 different T-50 Torx bits from 4 different companies trying to get these out. I was able to get 2 of them out, but even then, the bits were toast and broke on the next bolt. Anyone have ideas on how to get these out?

thermorex · **Posted:** Mon Jan 28, 2013 1:20 am

The only way I can think of is to get a light hammer and gently tap the torx into the screw. But do that very gently. Then try to tight them then untight them. That loctite can be a pain in the butt. I doubt it will work, in that case the only choice I can think of is to use heat. If you have a professional welding torch use it little by little on the screw only while trying to screw/unscrew (apply heat for few sec, try to unscrew, if not working apply few sec more, try again, you get the ideA). If you have a good hand you won't damage anything since a pro torch will heat the most only the screw, hot enough to melt that loctite and let you unscrew it. If you don't have a pro torch, get a yellow butan gas can (that heats faster than the red one and you wont need to keep it too long, risking to heat everything else and damage other components from the shaft) from Home Depot or local parts store. When I had situations like that it worked with heat very fast. Just remember to use the torch cautiously, little by little and don't overheat anything because its not necessary, you only need to warm that loctite enough to be able to unscrew, it's not that those screws are rusty or anything similar.

I have no other more "elegant" idea. Maybe some other fellows can suggest something better.
Edit: spray some pb blaster also, you may have some corrosion on the top of loctite, that pb blaster is a wonder in a can, lol.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Mon Jan 28, 2013 11:38 am

I would try an impact socket with an air impact wrench or even a hand (hammer) impact tool if you dont have air.
I prefer to keep torches away from the vehicle.

65Corvair · **Posted:** Wed Jan 30, 2013 2:56 am

I was able to get the flex plate bolts out. I sprayed them with PB Blaster last night and today I put my 500w halogen work light next to them for a couple hours to warm them up. There was no lock-tite or anything on the bolts. I did end up breaking a few more t-50 bits, but eventually all the bolts came out with a lot of can do attitude and a breaker bar.

This was the last T-50 bit I had that didn't break.

This is after getting the flex plate off. The 8 bolts here were easy compared to the ones holding the flexplate on. I am unsure of why the 4 paint marks are on the engine.

Here is the seal resting inside of the rear bearing housing, after getting the flex plate hub off.

and with the rear bearing housing off.

you can see here there is a bearing inside of the rear bearing housing.

According to the service manual, the new rear seal is placed inside the rear bearing housing and the whole unit is bolted back on to the engine. Bolts are torqued to 27.5Nm or 21 ft*lbs

Here is the service manual as follows.

This is telling me to torque the bolts in the hub, (that were easy to get out) to 50Nm, then back off, then torque to 25Nm then add 60 degrees. While the bolts that were near impossible to get out are only torqued to 44Nm. This seems backwards to me, this is where I stopped because I think the service manual might be wrong, thoughts?

65Corvair · **Posted:** Wed Jan 30, 2013 11:49 pm

Has anyone else had to take off their flex plate hub?

65Corvair · **Posted:** Wed Feb 06, 2013 9:52 pm

I got everything together on Sunday and Monday and have been driving it around, its running really good now. :BANANA:

There were no real big issues with putting everything back together, except for what bolts go where between the engine and trans, but eventually that got sorted out.
After driving around for while i checked the trans dip stick, the fluid is about a 1/2 inch above the top mark for hot. Do I need to drain a little out or drive it around more to make sure that all the fluid found all of the nooks and passageways.

lars0247 · **Joined:** Sat Oct 12, 2013 12:09 am **Posts:** 98

This is an old thread, but as a help to those who might refer to it, to know that there is threadlocker on the flexplate bolts from the factory.

The threadlocker is clear, so it is not easy to see, but the when I removed mine, the nasty smell of methyl methacrylate from it on the bolts was unmistakeable.

My point is, you need to get the bolts up over about 250F to make the threadlocker weak enough to avoid breaking torx bits.

I used a basic propane blowtorch, and heated the head of each bolt for about 20 seconds immediately before loosening it with an impact wrench.

Without heat, the bolts would not budge.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Thu Apr 07, 2016 12:17 am

Did you ever end up using the miller tool 1050?

Significant OIl Leak

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