Hi All,
Hit a sharp bump and there was a dash ding and the ABS, ESP and SAP lights came on. Also discovered the Cruise Control doesn't work. Checked fuses and all seem OK. Must have broken a connection somewhere. Anyone see this one before? 2006 CRD.
Thanks,
Billy

Well there is a well-known issue with the wiring harness chafing against the fuel filter mounting bracket. I would start there.

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05CRD: GDE Hot ECU & TCM tunes, Provent, Cat filter, Facet lift pump, TransGo kit, Florida TC, Samcos, stainless brake lines, HDS thermostat, Renegade light bar,
RL super sliders, Bilstein adjustables, Al's Gen 4.5 Arms, 235/85-16 Duratracs, DTT rear, Elocker front, EVIC+TPMS, Turbo timer, McNally pillar gauges, Weeks Stage II kit.

Could also be a wheel speed sensor or wire to same. Is your odometer working? If not that's likely it.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

I have this same exact thing ONLY, periodically, when the lights go out, the engine runs like crap. Almost as if its fuel starved...Its a very odd problem

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2006 CRD
2.5 Frankenlift,ARB front bumper with internal winch.snorkel soon to have rock lizard bumper, sliders and roof rails, 2nd gen filter head
GDE eco tune-need trans upgrade and new TC
Beaverton Oregon

Had this happen before. I found a shop that had a scanner that could read the ABS system and it was my pax side rear wheel senso no signal. I replaced the wheel sensor but problem still exisited.

Turned out to be that wire to wheel sensor had breaks in it. I ran a new wire parallel to wire sensor and that fixed the problem. I bet its a broken wire.

[quote="Drewd"]Had this happen before. I found a shop that had a scanner that could read the ABS system and it was my pax side rear wheel senso no signal. I replaced the wheel sensor but problem still exisited.

Turned out to be that wire to wheel sensor had breaks in it. I ran a new wire parallel to wire sensor and that fixed the problem. I bet its a broken wire.[/quot

Thanks for the hints. I'm pretty sure you are all right. Either a wheel sensor or wire. I'm going to have a local shop replace my thermostat and glow plugs this week. I'll have them check the sensors too.
Best,
Billy

I knew it was a wiring issue because whenever I drove the vehicle into a large puddle, the ABS/ESP and cruise would temporarily work.

Reviving old thread, a new twist...
I have seen this problem with the wire to the rear diff sensor, but has anyone seen this problem without the dash lights lighting up? Seems mighty odd, and the rear sensor has already been replaced
Oh, no CEL or codes either

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05 CRD: H.D.S2 stat,WW Ironrock trilink&LCA's, OX rear,ARB front, 4.10's, ARB bumper, Suncoast,OME 3.5, JBA UCA,rock rails, Moabs&265/75 Duratracs, GDE tunes ,FFD fan,ARP's, 2 micron fuel, new valves,sasquatch battery tray & grid heater, tensioner relocated
Mech fan, VH & AC delete

I just went through this exercise a few weeks ago. My 2006 would experience those exact symptoms intermittently ever since I got it. When it finally failed for good, scanner read RR Wheel Sensor loss of signal. Ordered a new sensor and the harness pigtail because they are cheap. Changed it out, but still the same code. Followed the step by step process of elimination in the FSM for that code. What I found was the harness was actually broken in two separate locations as it transitions across the differential. The factory tie wrap mounting tabs are pulled too tight on the assembly line and in time breaks through the insulation causing the copper conductor to corrode inside the insulation until it breaks. I had to replace about two feet of the harness to get out of the corroded portion. That was still easier than pulling up the whole harness underneath the rear seat and carpet. I paid a bit more for my scanner to have the ability to read and clear ABS codes. Worth every penny. Hate to think what that would have cost at a shop or the stealership.

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2006 KJ Sport CRD, 2006 KJ LTD CRD, 2013 Subaru BRZ 6spd., 1994 Ford F150 XLT, 1969 Dodge Charger R/T 4spd. (Yes it's a Hemi).

Right on, many thanks! I was hoping it was just a different combination of broken wires. I forgot to Mention that the mpg read out and cruise control were out, but of course they need the input from that sensor.

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05 CRD: H.D.S2 stat,WW Ironrock trilink&LCA's, OX rear,ARB front, 4.10's, ARB bumper, Suncoast,OME 3.5, JBA UCA,rock rails, Moabs&265/75 Duratracs, GDE tunes ,FFD fan,ARP's, 2 micron fuel, new valves,sasquatch battery tray & grid heater, tensioner relocated
Mech fan, VH & AC delete

This has happened to me twice. Both times it was the cable to the left rear wheel.

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My Jeep Liberty page

ORM, air filter mod, and less restrictive exhaust has increased my 'everyday' driving 3 mpg.

Hey what scanner do you have that does this?

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

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2006 CRD Jeep Liberty / Cherokee - Weeks Stage 1 & 2, GDE Eco Tune, Carter In-Tank Fuel Pump & Provent 200.

INNOVA 3160D

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2006 KJ Sport CRD, 2006 KJ LTD CRD, 2013 Subaru BRZ 6spd., 1994 Ford F150 XLT, 1969 Dodge Charger R/T 4spd. (Yes it's a Hemi).

I had the same issue a couple of years ago, I changed the wiring but still had the problem. It turns out that the wiring is polarity sensitive and I had the wires for the RR wheel sensor crossed...

lesson learned but it took a while to figure that that the abs uses a hall type sensor vs an an analog tach signal.

My stability system is still offline though, but the cruise and abs works