big problem...

blackDiesel · **Joined:** Thu Jan 10, 2013 2:30 pm **Posts:** 67

I just changed my tstat and now I'm not getting any pressure! Do I have to bleed it or am I missing something?

flash7210 · **Posted:** Wed Jan 23, 2013 12:47 pm

blackDiesel wrote:

I just changed my tstat and now I'm not getting any pressure! Do I have to bleed it or am I missing something?

Pressure from where? Is the coolant level where it should be?

kjjet · **Posted:** Wed Jan 23, 2013 12:56 pm

Yes.. you allways need to bleed the air out of the system after working on it.

Durring filling loosen the plastic bleeder on the left side top of the radiator. (it turns only 1/4 turn) I usally run it at idle for a wile with it open to work the air out.

blackDiesel · **Joined:** Thu Jan 10, 2013 2:30 pm **Posts:** 67

Its full...and should I park it on hill and do that?

kjjet · **Posted:** Wed Jan 23, 2013 2:07 pm

blackDiesel wrote:

Its full...and should I park it on hill and do that?

No.. no hill needed. Just becouse the reservoir is full dose not mean the system dose not have air in it.

I assume you installed a new jeep t-stat? Or did you install a new inline t-stat?

papaindigo · **Posted:** Wed Jan 23, 2013 2:15 pm

See my comments at viewtopic.php?f=5&t=69413&p=742196&hilit=thermostat#p742196 . Add fluid thru the tank on the firewall until fluid comes out of the upper radiator vent, burp the upper radiator hose, add fluid as needed, close the vent, complete the fill at the tank until fluid is ca. 3/4" above the cast in midline on the tank, install radiator cap, do a couple of drive to operating temp and full cool downs to purge air, fluid in tank should drop to about mid line. Keep in mind that tank on the firewall is effectively the top of the radiator hence the pressure cap.

If you want to get a tiny bit more air out you can pull the upper heater hose at the viscous heater end and fill until fluid comes out of both the hose and the viscous and then reattach hose.

blackDiesel · **Joined:** Thu Jan 10, 2013 2:30 pm **Posts:** 67

OK I tried what u said took it for ride got it hot and still has no pressure in system?

kjjet · **Posted:** Wed Jan 23, 2013 4:55 pm

blackDiesel wrote:

OK I tried what u said took it for ride got it hot and still has no pressure in system?

I assume you installed a new jeep t-stat? Or did you install a new inline t-stat?

If its the inline? Is it installed the correct direction? Normally there is a picture showing the correct direction on the box. There are several types out there and they do look different.

blackDiesel · **Joined:** Thu Jan 10, 2013 2:30 pm **Posts:** 67

Factory tstat

blackDiesel · **Joined:** Thu Jan 10, 2013 2:30 pm **Posts:** 67

Is it possible my radiator cap is bad? I had that problem on my 6.0...

nursecosmo · **Posted:** Wed Jan 23, 2013 6:38 pm

You still haven't said what pressure you are talking about. Are you looking for pressure in the coolant system? You've never said where you live (update your sig and such). If you are living in the great white north, you may not see any pressure in the coolant system until temps warm up. If the temperature gauge is indicating that you are not over/under heating, just run with it and be happy.

blackDiesel · **Joined:** Thu Jan 10, 2013 2:30 pm **Posts:** 67

Pressure in the coolant system houses and such ...I live in York pa...were getting unusual cold weather...its 3 degrees where I am. Now...I'm getting poor heat I only have heat when going up hills and such ( when motor is hot ) but driving around town coolant temp drops quickly and so does heat...I blocked front of radiator off so air don't hit it flushed system new OEM t stat and the visioc heater is also working what else can.I do?

Valve Stem · **Posted:** Wed Jan 23, 2013 9:34 pm

I live an hour from you in reading/exeter/birdsboro area it was 9*F this morning had the block heater plugged in all night and i have a glow plug #3 code she fired right up in 2 cranks awww real nice

Ok well now back to you question.... I dont have my radiator blocked off even for a 16 mile ride to work, I know my factory t stat was failing couple of weeks ago to i went ahead and put in an 195 inline t stat. brought it back to normal

Where does your temp gauge sit at after driving for a little while? does it sit at the 1/4 mark? or does it sit one line to the left of straight up and down?

If its to the 1/4 you might have gotten a bad factory stat or you might just want to go ahead and get and inline stat off of amazon like $12

racertracer · **Posted:** Wed Jan 23, 2013 9:55 pm

Same problem I experienced soon after replacing my thermostat and just before my head gasket blew.

On and off heat, temp gage never showed any signs of trouble.

To eliminate air pockets in the head, I was told that I needed to drain all the coolant first, before replacing the thermostat..... replenish all the coolant from the top down a full 2 gallons, do not twist open the cap on the radiator.... do not touch that one.

SO ... First drain all the coolant, then replace the thermostat and then replenish the coolant approximately 2 gallons. Drive for fifteen minutes, open the radiator cap on top of the expansion tank..... never open the twist cap on the radiator.

Do it again.... and again. Until all the coolant has dropped to the right level on the expansion tank... do not drive the vehicle hard until all the coolant has flowed down through the motor and filled the head.

Hope this helps, take your time.

kjjet · **Posted:** Wed Jan 23, 2013 10:04 pm

Agree..... he has air in the system and if left alone the block will overheat. May even get that smoke he wanted.

Sorry, could not stop myself.

racertracer · **Posted:** Wed Jan 23, 2013 10:07 pm

Make sure you put back 2 gallons of coolant, it will be slow flowing. You need to take your time and wait on the fluid to drain and fill.

blackDiesel · **Joined:** Thu Jan 10, 2013 2:30 pm **Posts:** 67

I'm confused half the people say to use that vent and half don't :dizzy:

I'll ask my co workers tomorrow and see what they say...but I'll try what u said .... :banghead:

MRausch82 · **Posted:** Thu Jan 24, 2013 9:49 am

Bleeding the air could not be any simpler than others have already described. If that is not working, your thermostat is TU. (Google that if unfamiliar with the abbreviation). I am in N. Central PA and my CRD will not stay warm (due to this weeks bitter single digit and below temperatures up here). This is normal. If I come to a stop, idle, or do any amount of stop and go, my gauge will drop from 1/2 to 1/4 and the heat gets cooler. Since you have yet to fully describe your scenario, we can't help much more. "Pressure"? If you mean pressure in the system, it won't happen unless there is a problem, or it is much hotter out. Once again, as previously said in your other posts, these are not you "normal" diesel engines. They are unlike others, so take the advice you can get here and heed it. Good luck......

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Thu Jan 24, 2013 11:10 am

Worth it's weight in gold....................

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/lil-24610

flash7210 · **Posted:** Thu Jan 24, 2013 4:24 pm

I have one of those. Great tool.
But it wouldnt fit the CRD

big problem...

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