What are the chances of a leaky Injector seal

saabflyer89 · **Posted:** Thu Jan 31, 2013 7:22 pm

Ok So I got my black jeep back together again!!! after the first time revealed a leaky water pump which turned out to be a rather large crack. I put everything back together and went for a drive, she ran ok but I only went about a mile or so then on my way back I gave it the beans and this is when my new sound came in. I now have a poooft pooooft sound as if air is being forced out of some hole. At first I thought !@**&$*#(@ my timing is off but after quickly cooling off I rethought about that and I triple checked everything before reassembly. I pulled the hose from the intake pipe going to the engine and placed my hand, as I'm just too afraid of putting paper or anything else that might get sucked up, and completely covered the hose, thinking if it were to be out of time I'd feel something puffing back into my hand. I felt only suction and the hose completely collapsed and the engine would try to die as it should, so I don't think it is timing. I then thought !@*#&#*$%(@ do i now have a rod bearing that has gone bad??? well after restarting ( I know kinda dumb but at this point i dont think I would care if it shot itself as then I wouldn't waste my ammo on it myself) anyways listening to her turn over and then start I could hear the noise which again sounds like either a sucking or pushing of air even before the engine started. My thought is if I had a rod knocking I would not hear it until the engine was running. I did unplug #4cyl. and the sound was less. Also if the EGR Pipe was not totally lined up or fitting just right would that make the sound? or would i just loose boost Thanks again for all your input.

saabflyer89 · **Posted:** Thu Jan 31, 2013 8:10 pm

Ok so I went back downstairs and played some more and with the engine running I can see a puff puff puff of smoke coming from that 4th injector. I tried to tighten it a little more and the sound I think became less just a little bit but its still there. I guess I should take it out and inspect the copper crush ring and see if there is something else wrong. Can anyone think of something else that would cause it to leak. Thanks

kjjet · **Posted:** Thu Jan 31, 2013 8:29 pm

Sounds like your having compression blowby.

You have to clean where the injectors go in the head. There is alot of build up and it must be clean proir to installing the injector.
I ran a small wire wheel on a drill with a little fuel. Then clean with rag and compressed air. Most important to clean where the copper seal seats.

saabflyer89 · **Posted:** Thu Jan 31, 2013 8:48 pm

I did have one other question, When driving the jeep today I noticed the fan seemed to be running all the time, you could hear it roaring when driving, however it turns freely when the engine is off, why would the fan stick on 100% when the engine is running but be free when the engine is off.

kjjet · **Posted:** Thu Jan 31, 2013 8:56 pm

saabflyer89 wrote:

I did have one other question, When driving the jeep today I noticed the fan seemed to be running all the time, you could hear it roaring when driving, however it turns freely when the engine is off, why would the fan stick on 100% when the engine is running but be free when the engine is off.

Are your talking about the electric fan? Or the belt driven Fan?

Electric will run when the engine is hot or you have airconditioning on or defrost on.

Belt fan spins free when engine is off and a cluch drives it when the engine is running.

Hope that helps?

saabflyer89 · **Posted:** Thu Jan 31, 2013 9:04 pm

Sorry I was talking about the belt driven fan, it is much louder than it was the last time I drove it and is much louder than my other jeep

kjjet · **Posted:** Thu Jan 31, 2013 9:14 pm

Did you bend it??? Tight???? or are you starting to hear everything a little more? Have heard the cluch goes bad, but i dont know what to look for.

saabflyer89 · **Posted:** Thu Jan 31, 2013 9:24 pm

Well if the clutch is bad now I guess its bad in a good way in that its turning the fan and not slipping, but again the fan turns very freely when the engine is off go figure.

kjjet · **Posted:** Fri Feb 01, 2013 9:41 am

I'm not sure what very freely is to you vs me, so i would compare your two CRD's. If your concerned about it? You can remove the fan. Several people have. I've been told even in the summer there is no issues. The electric fan dose the work. Mine is installed and never tried it. But was thinking it may be a good choice in the winter?

saabflyer89 · **Posted:** Fri Feb 01, 2013 1:59 pm

Alright a quick trip to our friends at the Cummings shop I got a new o-ring and crush washer, put everything back together and vuala she is back to running good again.... However now I have a pretty bad leak from what seems to be the rear drivers side of the engine, I'm guessing EGR issue. Can the valve itself be leaking or is it just a hose that runs down that way. I have it sitting outside right now as I need to get my poor garage cleaned up after 2 jeeps have undergone surgery. I'll see what you guys think then I'll pull her back in sometime next week and get cracking at the new issue.

kjjet · **Posted:** Fri Feb 01, 2013 4:00 pm

The leak is antifreeze? Yes. there is one large line and 2 small lines on the EGR (I think) The small ones usally leak.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Fri Feb 01, 2013 5:46 pm

If antifreeze there is a coolant line from the block to the EGR, a coolant line from the EGR upto a metal line that runs across the top of the engine just in front of where you add oil, and 2 shorter/smaller lines from the EGR cooler to the EGR. Any of those lines can leak as can the EGR cooler. FYI if you have a GDE tune you can take the cooler out of the circuit and just the block flow directly to the metal line.

saabflyer89 · **Posted:** Fri Feb 01, 2013 10:34 pm

Ok so I found the problem, one of the short rubber hoses had totally rotted away from the metal line so I replaced both hoses down there and it must be said ..... I HATE those stupid quick release clamps. Either way I got it all buttoned up and went for a drive today. Jeep seems to smoke and seems a little slugish. I wonder if this jeep has the F37 or whatever it was that de-nutted the jeep. My blue jeep will press you back into your seat this one seems to make noise and you seem to go a little faster. I can hear the turbo spool up but still seems to run kinda like a dog. However it does idle and run smoother than my Blue jeep go figure. Could the turbo be on its last leg or perhaps the veins are stuck or something or is it that this might have had the computer reflash and thats just all it has to offer now. Thanks for the input. Oh and I did clean the MAP sensor while I had the valve cover off.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sat Feb 02, 2013 9:26 am

Smoke and sluggish performance:
1. leak in one or both CAC hoses or at the clamp(s) - if OEM hoses check for leaks on bottom by removing from vehicle and taking off the mesh covering; if no leaks are found but hoses are soggy with oil assume they are leaking anyway and replace with Samcos. While turbo to intercooler hose is off check airbox to turbo hose for split on bottom just in front of turbo and while that hose is off check turbo wheel for free spin, little fore/aft movement, and virtually no side to side movement ( viewtopic.php?f=5&t=61913&p=685281&hilit=turbo+washed#p685281)
2. check for proper movement of turbo variable vanes. Per GDE "You can check the vane functionality at idle in park. Underneath the vacuum actuator on the turbo is rod extending downward connected to the vane mechanism. If you pull off the vacuum line at the turbo, the arm should drop about 1/2 inch and then raise back up after reconnecting the vacuum line. It is a bit difficult to see the rod, but this is the easiest method to check for proper VGT vane moevment."
3. check for proper function of the boost pressure solenoid (You can check the vane functionality at idle in park. Underneath the vacuum actuator on the turbo is rod extending downward connected to the vane mechanism. If you pull off the vacuum line at the turbo, the arm should drop about 1/2 inch and then raise back up after reconnecting the vacuum line. It is a bit difficult to see the rod, but this is the easiest method to check for proper VGT vane moevment.)

What are the chances of a leaky Injector seal

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