here is a great write up on bypass filters (the write up quite old, but has some good, well written info on them)
http://www.envirolubesolutions.com/pdf/Diesel_Engine_Wear_with_Spin_-_On_Bypass_Lube_Oil_Filters.pdf

this picture pretty much sums it up


youtube video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=rKBs6KGcgwI#!

bypass filters have been around forever, but were never really adopted in the automotive industry for various reasons.

oil and engine manufactured figured out how to get things to last "long enough" without them. For the most part, by the time an engine in a car wears out, nobody cares because the car is junk anyway. What's a 1994 car with 300,000 miles on it worth right now? does anyone really care how well it runs? It had a good run...

But when there is value in having an engine last for 1,000,000 miles or more, companies use them all the time.

For example, this is a cat c13. A very popular commercial heavy truck engine.

http://www.cat.com/cda/files/2202664/7/ ... 0HR0P2.pdf

if you read the specs, or just look at the engine, out of the box, it has 2 filters: full flow and bypass

Or we could revise our oil change intervals from 6500 miles to 3500 miles, unplug the MAF sensor and eliminate the hassle of engine bay modifications.

Or install a Fumoto quick change oil drain valve, so that the oil can be drained quickly. Then run the used oil through an external high efficiency filter for an hour, by way of an inexpensive pump, let the pump and filter do the cleaning for you. When it's done, put it back in the engine for an extended service.

Again eliminating engine bay modifications.

This set up would allow the oil to be cleaned on a regular basis.

Next time around, you can change the oil filter and oil. Or send the oil to Blackstone for testing to see how well the filtering works and decide then how long you can keep the oil in the engine based on the results.



I agree keeping the oil clean is the best thing we can do to keep our engines running forever, but we just don't have enough room in the engine bay ............. it's tight as it is.

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2006 Liberty Limited CRD, Deep Beryl Green, Yeti tune, Arp studs, new cams, rockers, lifters, TB. "Green Monster"
2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Deep Beryl Green, GDE Hot Tune, ARP studs. "Rocket"
1982 Fiat 124 Spider Convertible. "Fiona"

I agree with racer. Where can we put such a device. And I would like to know the effects on oil pressure. Geordi states that the oil pressure on these are real low. If that is the case, how much less oil is going into the engine?

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk HD

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2006 Sport, GDE FT Eco Tune, Custom Trans Tune
2015 Ram 1500 Big Horn EcoDiesel, GDE Hot Tune

There was a thread that mentioned a two part bypass/full flow spin on filter that looked intriguing.

The separate bypass filter could also be located forward of the driver's side wheel well under neath the battery.

One of the things I am going to look at as I build the motor going back into Geordi's old rig is the possibility of a second oil pump to run a bypass system, drawing oil independently from the sump and feeding at least some into one of the oil galleries. Another is the idea of increasing the oil pump output, by blueprinting the pump.

There are several worthwhile options to consider. I do like the idea of external filtration, too, from a capital cost standpoint, but the problem is that you are circulating abrasives while you run......

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Grid power- the one true essential

2005 Liberty CRD- ARP studs, Fumoto, Hayden FC, inline Tstat, ETechno 7v GP, Platinum P1, in-tank lift pump.
1983 Volvo D24T
1981 Volvo D24
Dodge Cummins TD
Case 580B
Mitsubishi MT180 diesel
Kubota BX25 diesel

I plan to install the single bypass version under the vehicle (some pics of this being done in other posts)

source from the pressure sender (of if that's a PIA, plan b is just a filter sandwedge) , return directly to the pan.


The drop in flow/pressure to the rest of the motor is negligible.

What circulates through the engine is a black powdery substance, consisting of amorphous carbon mixed in the oil.

Or a very fine black sand like media that continually blasts at moving parts throughout the engine.

A good working metal part (like a cam) can only take so much of that before it wears down.

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2006 Liberty Limited CRD, Deep Beryl Green, Yeti tune, Arp studs, new cams, rockers, lifters, TB. "Green Monster"
2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Deep Beryl Green, GDE Hot Tune, ARP studs. "Rocket"
1982 Fiat 124 Spider Convertible. "Fiona"

http://store.fs2500.com/jeeplibertycrde ... sonly.aspx

This kit is a bolt on for CRD's. This cannister bolts on to the frame using existing holes. He made the installation sound very easy. Filtration seems very good. Only down side I see is price of replacement filter elements.

The guys sounds mid-west US. Anyway, he picks up the phone and has lots of time to talk about his product. The site also has LOTS of info and comparisons to other systems.

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'05 Sport CRD 107k miles. NOBODY knows everything.

I plan to put this unit:


here: (this is a different unit, but installed on a CRD)

Here's mine. Been on the Jeep for 75,000 miles. http://www.syntheticlubes.com/crd_bypass.html

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2011 Ram 2500 6.7L Cummins Deleted w/MiniMaxx G56 HDD 5W-30 & Bypass Oil Filter
2005 Liberty CRD Limited (Cracked Block) Sold
2015 Cherokee Latitude 3.2L V6 (Replaced CRD)
1992 Dodge Stealth RT Twin Turbo Pearl White/Black Leather
2008 Kubota GR2110 Diesel
2006 Key West 186 Sportsman w/135HP Honda OB
1943 Farmall H Restored

Looks really nice, just not the route I'm planing on going... different strokes for different folks...

I don't really like the idea of shoe-horning it under the hood if I can avoid it....

I'l be the first to admit that mine won't be as well protected from rocks and such, but neither are half the components under there anyway......