Oil Flush caused some issues....

Srytrucker · **Posted:** Tue Feb 12, 2013 2:11 am

I did an oil change today and put 5w40 oil 6quarts and Lubri Moly engine flush, i let it run for 10 minutes and took it out side the garage and back in after the flush i installed Fumuto 102 Valve it seemed that at one point the oil drain plug had striped and some one put an oversize plug instead it said some thing like M18 on the plug anyways the fumoto was a little loose so i put a little JB weld and it held its place, i installed Bosch DP3500 filter and put 7 quarts of oil now i can not seem to register oil on the stick but i know i have put 7 quarts in it secondly i am seeing some smoke blowing through the dipstick and i am sure this issue was also not there before, any thoughts ideas?

TJ2 · **Posted:** Tue Feb 12, 2013 2:24 am

I'd let it sit overnight and check it again in the morning. Mine takes a long time to drain all the way back into the oil pan.

racertracer · **Posted:** Tue Feb 12, 2013 5:46 am

The quick minute flushes should be done with care. If your engine was never flushed, then you should have used a gentler product that dissolves the build up over time. And you're not supposed to drive it while doing a quick flush…. Ever ...... idle only for a few minutes, driving it will destroy your engine, many have done just that.

If the engine has never gone thru a flush, then a quick flush can dislodge thick pieces of clumped up sludge that can clog passages and destroy engines.

If your oil is low, it could be due to the Fumoto drain valve failing to seat correctly and driving it might have allowed the oil to weep out without you knowing it.

If your engine has never been flushed, you should use a slow engine cleaner instead and there are many out there. They clean the engine slowly and while you drive then drained at your next oil change.

Put some silicone gasket sealant on the Fumoto threads to eliminate any possible leaks.
Hopefully your engine has not suffered any damage. Good luck.

Quick flushes used wrongly, can quickly destroy an engine a gentler cleaner is the best way to go, especially with high mileage engines.

Like Rislone, Seafoam, etc. do some research, flushes and cleaners do a great job when used correctly.

Drewd · **Joined:** Mon Feb 06, 2006 12:24 pm **Posts:** 902

If you use a quality synthetic engine oil designed for turbo diesel engines, engine flushes are unnecessary and in my opinion can cause engine problems.

A member here has had two engine failures and I suspect his use of engine flushes may have contributed to engine problems.

LS12FAST4U · **Posted:** Tue Feb 12, 2013 10:30 am

Did you read the directions and warnings on the bottle before using it? Every engine flush I have seen says Do Not use on turbocharged engines.

Srytrucker · **Posted:** Tue Feb 12, 2013 10:50 am

I guess I fell to the fix it till it breaks syndrome now I did use JB Weld to seat the Fumoto and it seems to hold up pretty good no oil leaks and I think I can not see the oil is because I was looking for dark/black level and new oil is just clear so that could be one reason, the thing that troubles me is the smoke coming out of dipstick what caused it and possible damage/remedy.I used this particular Engine Flush as some1 had recommended it here in the forums.anyways keeping my fingers crossed and Thanks.

naturist · **Posted:** Tue Feb 12, 2013 10:51 am

I, too, hope you have not caused any damage with that flush.

I realized just yesterday, that in just a couple weeks, I will have been driving for a full 50 years. I've owned Chevys, Fiats, BMWs, VWs, and one Jeep, my current CRD. Most of those vehicles I've driven until the wheels fell off at a rate of 30,000 miles or more per year. I'm very picky about using high quality oil, but I have never once used an engine flush product. My humble opinion is that they are just another way of separating folks from their hard-earned money. Continuous and exclusive use of quality oil is a better idea.

I would expect you to get a little smoke out of a dip-stick tube on a diesel. The high compression ratio causes a bit more semi-combusted gas past the rings than you'll see on a gasser. Stick the dip stick fully into the tube and it won't bother you again.

It is also quite likely that someone did indeed strip the threads on the drain plug. The combination of a steel plug, aluminum pan, and inattentive semi-intelligent and careless oil-change technician are likely to do that. I would not expect that a loose-fitting Fumoto valve and JBWeld to make a viable long-term solution. But I could be wrong about that. I especially would not expect the addition of silicone rubber caulk/sealant to help.

7 quarts of oil is overfilling by about a half quart, not an especially good idea, but also not one likely to cause too much trouble.

geordi · **Posted:** Tue Feb 12, 2013 2:56 pm

Drewd wrote:

If you use a quality synthetic engine oil designed for turbo diesel engines, engine flushes are unnecessary and in my opinion can cause engine problems.

A member here has had two engine failures and I suspect his use of engine flushes may have contributed to engine problems.

You pointing at me here? FYI: I have never used any engine flush type products, as I also believe them to be a way to clean out your WALLET and not your engine.

The only additive product I did use was the Rislone oil treatment - not a flushing product, but one designed to add back the zinc and keep the engine healthier. I don't think it helped or hurt anything, because I only used it twice and it was only in for 3k miles. The top of the engine and the cylinders all looked clean and pretty when I tore it down. Unfortunately, the gaping hole with the rod end jammed in it was a bit of a problem for operational quality...

Srytrucker · **Posted:** Wed Feb 13, 2013 11:35 pm

So it has worked out Ok for me but i am not going to use engine flush anymore the oil was clear and as such did not register on the dipstick immediately, so left it overnight and checked in the daylight and it registered midway between low and full just right where it needs to be, i used 7Q as i was using larger capacity oil filter.The smoke blow by through dipstick has also lessened maybe it will go away once the leftover effects of flush are burned away.lessen learned.thanks.

kjjet · **Posted:** Fri Feb 15, 2013 4:03 pm

Engine flushes have been linked to bearing failure. Not a good!

Drewd · **Joined:** Mon Feb 06, 2006 12:24 pm **Posts:** 902

Geordi,
I apologize sincerely. I was under the impression you were using risolone engine flush product and not the oil treatment. The oil treatment with ZDDP is good stuff. I'm sorry!

I've been under the wrong impression as to the cause of your engine failure and thought it was related to repeated use of oil flush product. With that ruled out I can only conclude you were screwed with 2 poorly manufactured and/or designed products.

Sorry!

Drewd

kjjet · **Posted:** Fri Feb 15, 2013 4:31 pm

Wow..don't go that far.

geordi · **Posted:** Fri Feb 15, 2013 5:30 pm

Hey guys, I don't take anything personal, and I've provided as much info about my experiences with the Jeep as I can. Wherever that information leads, I'm also along for the ride.

Everyone has got me thinking and questioning my sanity on what I used, luckily I still had both bottles that I had used - I kept them as quart bottles to hold fresh Delvac in an easy-to-measure amount. Turns out, my memory was wrong. It wasn't the ZDDP additive, but it also wasn't the Rislone flush. This is the exact product I used - one quart per oil change, two oil changes in a row for 3k miles each:

http://barsproducts.com/catalog/view/2-engine-treatment-100qr

MSDS for the same doesn't show anything important other than it is an oil. Surprise surprise.

Do I think it hurt the bearings? I honestly don't know. The top of the engine was clean and deposit-free when I tore it down, but the bottom was where both engines failed. Originally I had blamed the oil loss from the turbo failure on causing the damage to the bearings / rod / crankshaft... Now, with engine #2 never running low on oil or oil pressure... I am at a loss to point at anything specific other than a critical design flaw.

The cause of the engine starting to tap (Which I am guessing from other threads was the bearing tolerance starting to open up) was an "italian tune-up" WOT run from 45mph up to about 65, up the incline of the Talmadge Bridge here in Savannah. When I reached the top, I had an overboost code (Boost never exceeded 25psi, but that is also the alert point on the computer) and was in limp mode because of it. Rebooted the computer to clear the limp mode while coasting down the far side of the bridge, and started hearing the tapping soon after.

If the throttle cannot be floored in a mechanically stock vehicle without causing havoc, what does that say about the quality of the design? Yes, I had a GDE eco-tune in the computer... But the map was the same as everyone else that has the eco-tune, and Keith's programming of the turbo map is designed to increase safety while returning the economy that the engine should be capable of within its design.

Oil Flush caused some issues....

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