What CRD oil filter do you use?

weeks101 · **Joined:** Mon Jul 30, 2012 3:29 pm **Posts:** 747

thermorex wrote:

Seth, are you sure this is the value and not bigger pressure?

I am not 100% sure. Mobil doesn't actually list that spec on their website. So I did some more research and found the (8-11 psi) numbers from these sources:

1 - http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MOB5/M1301.oap
2 - http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ub ... Post340206
3 - http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3767319-Mobil-1-M1-301-Oil-Filter-Need-clarification-(ancient-post-content)&p=47139093&viewfull=1#post47139093
4 - http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showp ... ostcount=4

joelukex4 · **Joined:** Thu Sep 29, 2011 4:54 pm **Posts:** 386

Here are the numbers for the Wix /Napa filters. They are the same as the Mobil 1. Are we saying none of these filters should be used?

“Standard old” Long-51515 (Additional ½ quart over “Factory Stock”, Used in 1968-1974 Factory Big Block V-8’s)
Height: 5.178
Outer Diameter: 3.660
Thread Size: 3/4-16
By-Pass Valve Setting-PSI: 8-11
Anti-Drain Back Valve: Yes
Beta Ratio: 2/20=13/23
Burst Pressure-PSI: 270
Max Flow Rate: 7-9 GPM
Nominal Micron Rating: 19
Gasket Diameters
Number O.D. I.D. Thk.
Attached 2.834 2.462 0.200

Yeti · **Posted:** Mon May 18, 2015 5:26 pm

the 8-11 psi is the pressure difference from the inlet to the outlet of the filter media , if the pressure inlet is more of 8-11 psi ....the value of the bypass valve ......... would does it mean that the filter is clogged or the oil is more thick and the valve is opened by the spring for obvious reasons

Now what I want to know is , if less value psi walk together with the best flow and filtration

and why in Europe for our jeep , the aftermarket filter is sold with more psi , less filtration ? different oil ?? but I don't think ...or error in marketing ??

BTW , many thanks for have found some value

Yeti · **Posted:** Mon May 18, 2015 5:53 pm

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detai ... ord=m1-211

for this filter that is recommended for our jeep , is rated at 11-14 psi with 12 gpm .......gallon per minute ??

and the M1-301 is rated at 8-11 psi but with 24 gpm

what did you think ?

Mike92104 · **Posted:** Mon May 18, 2015 7:17 pm

From Purolator's web site for discussion:

Purolator PL25230

Specifications:
Anti-Drain Back Valve Yes
Height 4.74
O.D. 2.98
Relief Valve P.S.I. 12-15
Thread Pitch UNF-2B
Threads 3/4-16
Type of Filter Spin-on

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Mon May 18, 2015 10:02 pm

I am running the new Purolator Synthetic Oil Filter: PLS3001
99.9% efficient @25 microns using ISO 4548-12 multi-pass fully synthetic media, wire backed support.
:SOMBRERO:

thermorex · **Posted:** Mon May 18, 2015 10:55 pm

I'm not clear on the 301 filter, I have never used it but wonder, all those people using it were wrong?

CATCRD · **Posted:** Mon May 18, 2015 11:27 pm

thermorex wrote:

weeks101 wrote:

Yeti wrote:

You know the bypass valve value of this filter ?

The M1-301 has a bypass valve pressure rating of 8-11 psi

Then the stock filter is better, as I have never seen idling pressure less than 20 psi with 0w40 at 180 degrees (goes to about 15-17 psi at 200-ish degrees). This means the oil will never get filtration with the big filter. Seth, are you sure this is the value and not bigger pressure?

As Yeti explained the bypass number is only referring to the pressure drop (restriction) caused by the media itself. Has nothing to do with idle psi. With more media, the odds of going into bypass mode are smaller too.

Yeti · **Posted:** Tue May 19, 2015 2:58 am

Yes , it is what I meant , but with a larger filter you think there is some problem ? like less pressure , in the engine or nothing change and we also had a benefit ? like less strain in the pump ? etcc etcc

what I have understand is low GPM flow and low psi is not a god thing , but even a filter with high psi with low flow , we need the right spec of the Mopar filter , and I think the spec of the M1-211 is really the same of the Mopar , but I'm not sure , it take someone testing the psi on a Mopar filter , low flow and low psi can put in the head the contaminated oil and create a damage on the lifter , and a low flow and high psi valve can give less oil with great problem for many part of the engine

flash7210 · **Posted:** Tue May 19, 2015 7:23 am

A larger filter with with greater filter surface area will have a higher flow rate and lower internal pressure.

Filter media affects flow rate too.
A 10 micron filter will have a higher flow rate than a 3 micron filter.
For a 3 micron filter to have the same flow rate as a 10 micron, it will have to be bigger with more surface area.

The more stuff that a filter traps, the better a filter becomes at trapping more and smaller particles. Consequently, flow rate goes down and internal pressure goes up.

xhizzous · **Posted:** Tue May 19, 2015 8:19 am

06 CRD - M1-301 filter and Mobil1 5w40 TDT since 94k when I bought it. Currently at 146k

05 CRD - M1-301 filter and Mobil1 5w40 TDT ... Only Oil Change I have done so far on it, has about 106k on the clock.

pjigar · **Posted:** Tue May 19, 2015 10:00 am

Wix 51516 oil filter and Mobile 1 TDT 5W40 oil

tcoilburner · **Posted:** Sun May 24, 2015 11:41 pm

Pure Power reuse able filter and Mobil1 0w40.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Mon May 25, 2015 11:13 am

tcoilburner wrote:

Pure Power reuse able filter and Mobil1 0w40.

A reusable oil filter?
You are gonna have to explain how that works.

tcoilburner · **Posted:** Mon May 25, 2015 1:11 pm

It's a depth style filter with many fine layers of mesh to stop the dirty. Diesel power did a write up on them last year I believe.

ebbnflow · **Posted:** Mon May 25, 2015 9:10 pm

I've been running a napa gold 1515 (same as wix 51515) since 70k. I change my oil every 5k with shell rotella t6 5w-40. I have 115000 miles now. No problems to report.

funnyman06 · **Joined:** Sun Jul 06, 2014 7:46 pm **Posts:** 180

When I had my engine rebuilt recently the mechanic who rebuilt it told me to not use Synthetic oil in the jeep and to stick with plain ol 15-40 dino diesel oil, and to also keep the oil change intervals to around 3-4K. His reasoning had to do with the ability of synthetic oils to wick heat away vs conventional, and how that relates to us having piston oil squirters. I just did an oil change on it and used the M1 301 filter and 7 quarts of Mobil Delvac 15/40. But typically I would use Rotella T6 and a Wix or Purlator Filter.

tcoilburner · **Posted:** Mon May 25, 2015 10:57 pm

funnyman06 wrote:

When I had my engine rebuilt recently the mechanic who rebuilt it told me to not use Synthetic oil in the jeep and to stick with plain ol 15-40 dino diesel oil, and to also keep the oil change intervals to around 3-4K. His reasoning had to do with the ability of synthetic oils to wick heat away vs conventional, and how that relates to us having piston oil squirters. I just did an oil change on it and used the M1 301 filter and 7 quarts of Mobil Delvac 15/40. But typically I would use Rotella T6 and a Wix or Purlator Filter.

Synthetic oil handles heat better than non-synthetics. The performance world lives on synthetic oil unless rules prohibit them.

thermorex · **Posted:** Tue May 26, 2015 7:55 am

funnyman06 wrote:

When I had my engine rebuilt recently the mechanic who rebuilt it told me to not use Synthetic oil in the jeep and to stick with plain ol 15-40 dino diesel oil, and to also keep the oil change intervals to around 3-4K. His reasoning had to do with the ability of synthetic oils to wick heat away vs conventional, and how that relates to us having piston oil squirters. I just did an oil change on it and used the M1 301 filter and 7 quarts of Mobil Delvac 15/40. But typically I would use Rotella T6 and a Wix or Purlator Filter.

I think your mechanic should go to requalify regarding oil topic. It make absolutely no sense to say what he says, since it is proven that synthetic oil resist better shear and it is more fluid (usually) than conventional oil. A more fluid oil will always cool better and go easier through tiny passageways. Oils with higher shear point would also lube better than oils with lower in high operating temperatures like diesels usually have in combustion chamber. Better would be to say that the risk of synthetic oil to shear is way less than at conventionals. Your mechanic has absolutely zero scientific proof to support what he sad. That's not to say you'll ruin the engine running a conventional 15w40, but I one would not even think going with synthetic. Even big 18 wheelers can use synthetic better than conventional, the problem is the costs, especially that those engines barely go close to 2k rpm and they operate 99.9% on engine recommended temperatures when flow rate does not vary so much between conventional and synthetic.

funnyman06 · **Joined:** Sun Jul 06, 2014 7:46 pm **Posts:** 180

Well this will get me throughly broken in and then I will probably order my oil change stuff from IDParts.com. Move back to a 5-40 full synthetic. Engine only has 4000 miles on it right now.

What CRD oil filter do you use?

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