What CRD oil filter do you use?

geordi · **Posted:** Fri Feb 22, 2013 11:49 am

Our chief CRD Librarian, Papaindigo would be the one to ask about the sensor location writeups, but I had all three of the gauges you mentioned.

The oil pressure sender was located in the main oil gallery that feeds everything on the engine. There are 4 ports, one of which holds the turbo's feed line. The other 3 are capped. The one we selected was #4, right next to the transmission flexplate housing and underneath the turbo. Papaindigo had some adapters made up, and I don't recall the thread info.

The boost probe... Anywhere convenient that is a pressure section? Some have drilled the valve cover, some have drilled the intake elbow (easier to remove than the valve cover) and my new thought would be to use the FCV flange if you were inclined. I had drilled and carefully tapped the plastic of the intercooler outlet. It worked, but I wouldn't choose that location again for the simple fact: If you screw it up, it is a $500 mistake.

EGT probe - If you are removing the turbo anyway, this is a good idea. I drilled the actual iron housing of the turbo, just behind the mounting flange that would bolt to the exhaust manifold. I welded on a M10x1.0 (IIRC) nut, which closely matches the brass 1/8" NPT collar that you use with the EGT probe.

Others have chosen to put the EGT after the turbo for reasons of ease of install... But I had the turbo out anyway, and I liked to know that the gauge was reading the absolute hottest point possible.

thermorex · **Posted:** Fri Feb 22, 2013 11:58 am

Thanks Geordi! Hopefully the "chief crd librarian" would be so kind to post few pics when/if he has them. Lol. I got what you're saying, but it's so much easier when you see a pic, it involves less thinking/calculations and its already a success story. Thanks again!

CATCRD · **Posted:** Fri Feb 22, 2013 11:08 pm

thermorex wrote:

Thanks Geordi! Hopefully the "chief crd librarian" would be so kind to post few pics when/if he has them. Lol. I got what you're saying, but it's so much easier when you see a pic, it involves less thinking/calculations and its already a success story. Thanks again!

Here is my writeup.
viewtopic.php?p=687688

KD6ICZ · **Posted:** Sat Feb 23, 2013 3:47 am

ChooChooman74 wrote:

KD6ICZ wrote:

Very interesting to see all the different variations of filter / oil combos here. I've only changed my oil twice in the 4 months I've owned my CRD. First time I used the Mopar filter and the second time an Amsoil filter. I run the Amsoil full SAPS 5w40.

I changed over to full SAPS. I run a lot of miles so I will be doing an oil analysis by the end of March.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk HD

Let me know what you find from the analysis. The first oil change I used the middle European 5w40 and my CRD was burning it fairly fast. About a quart every 2k miles. I don't know if it was because the previous was dumping some Walmart junk in it needed to be cleaned out or if it wasn't the right formula. But now the second time around with the full SAPS it has hardly moved on the dipstick in 4k miles. The only other oil I would consider using in the R 428 is Mobil Delvac 1 5w40 or Mobil 1 European Car 0w40. Nothing from Shell/Penzoil or Chevron or Castrol or Valvoline. I personally think using those hydrocracked synthetics is the source of component failures... Way more than the oil filter!

racertracer · **Posted:** Sat Feb 23, 2013 6:43 am

HA HA. Hydrocracked synthetics..... this is the reason for some people to be moving away from Mobil 1.

Mobil 1 Tri-Synthetic uses multiple base-stock technology by blending other synthetic molecules with the PAO base-stocks and then they come up with a catchy name of Tri-Synthetic.

True synthetics? Ha.....

Read about it on Bob's the oil guy.

ChooChooman74 · **Posted:** Sat Feb 23, 2013 9:02 am

KD6ICZ wrote:

ChooChooman74 wrote:

KD6ICZ wrote:

Very interesting to see all the different variations of filter / oil combos here. I've only changed my oil twice in the 4 months I've owned my CRD. First time I used the Mopar filter and the second time an Amsoil filter. I run the Amsoil full SAPS 5w40.

I changed over to full SAPS. I run a lot of miles so I will be doing an oil analysis by the end of March.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk HD

Let me know what you find from the analysis. The first oil change I used the middle European 5w40 and my CRD was burning it fairly fast. About a quart every 2k miles. I don't know if it was because the previous was dumping some Walmart junk in it needed to be cleaned out or if it wasn't the right formula. But now the second time around with the full SAPS it has hardly moved on the dipstick in 4k miles. The only other oil I would consider using in the R 428 is Mobil Delvac 1 5w40 or Mobil 1 European Car 0w40. Nothing from Shell/Penzoil or Chevron or Castrol or Valvoline. I personally think using those hydrocracked synthetics is the source of component failures... Way more than the oil filter!

Will do. There is an oil diagnostic thread where I posted my results from 5000 miles on M1 TDT

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk HD

KD6ICZ · **Posted:** Sat Feb 23, 2013 11:52 am

racertracer wrote:

HA HA. Hydrocracked synthetics..... this is the reason for some people to be moving away from Mobil 1.

Mobil 1 Tri-Synthetic uses multiple base-stock technology by blending other synthetic molecules with the PAO base-stocks and then they come up with a catchy name of Tri-Synthetic.

True synthetics? Ha.....

Read about it on Bob's the oil guy.

Good to know. So I will correct my statement by saying if you can buy it at Walmart or any big auto parts chain stay away from it! Leave those oils for the Merican' rott gut 2006 and older diesels! But I still would like to thank Shell Rotella (pre Penzoil owned days) for all the cool country cassette tapes they gave me as a kid in the 80's and 90's at the 18 wheeler shows I went to with my dad!

Anyway... If you ever want to read some real oil arguements that will make your head spin and eyeballs bleed head over to TDI Club. Those guys are cut throat serious about oil!

Mobil used to be the only other PAO based besides Amsoil. I don't use Mobil products and now I will be sure to stay away from them. I've been strictly Amsoil since 2000 in all my vehicles. I hate the AVON marketing but love the product!

Hoosier CRD · **Posted:** Sat Feb 23, 2013 1:15 pm

I have used various filters on my CRD but only ONE oil, the AFL Mid-SAPS Amsoil European 5W-40.

I've tried most all of the brands of filters discussed here with the exception of the Amsoil EAO and Mobil One. Most recently, as in Wednesday night, I installed my first Wix, 51516. O'Reilly's carries Wix and it is convenient too.

Agreed, I do not care too much for the Avon-style marketing of Amsoil, but they do make great product.

thermorex · **Posted:** Sat Feb 23, 2013 3:52 pm

CATCRD wrote:

thermorex wrote:

Thanks Geordi! Hopefully the "chief crd librarian" would be so kind to post few pics when/if he has them. Lol. I got what you're saying, but it's so much easier when you see a pic, it involves less thinking/calculations and its already a success story. Thanks again!

Here is my writeup.
viewtopic.php?p=687688

Awesome, thanks a lot, it well be very helpful!

flash7210 · **Posted:** Sat Feb 23, 2013 4:16 pm

I use the M1-301 oil filter and M1 TDT 5w-30 oil.

lostFinn · **Posted:** Sat Feb 23, 2013 7:53 pm

kjjet wrote:

Lostfinn....lots of difference between Finland and US oils. Filters? Maybe not. Do most people use standard size filters or oversize?

I think most people who have CRD use standard size oil filters.

Yeti · **Posted:** Sun May 17, 2015 8:39 am

old post but...... in Europe the filter for the 2.8crd .....when specified ...had a bypass valve set at 36 psi , in your market Wix and other set at 8-12-14 psi the bypass valve , you know Mopar oil filter range ?? is the why Chrysler do a MS-10725 ? on your market ?

:juggle:

ShaqDiesel · **Posted:** Sun May 17, 2015 9:04 pm

M1-301. It costs $1-2 more and you get significantly greater filtration area.

Yeti · **Posted:** Mon May 18, 2015 3:26 am

You know the bypass valve value of this filter ?

Lancer · **Posted:** Mon May 18, 2015 4:41 am

We can't easily get Mobil 1 oil filters in England although the oil is on sale everywhere. M1-301 is on sale on Amazon uk - the seller wants £82 each!

Yeti · **Posted:** Mon May 18, 2015 6:08 am

but the M1 301 have more capacity ? because I see the right number that fit our jeep is M1 211

Lancer · **Posted:** Mon May 18, 2015 9:21 am

Yes - the 211 is the recommended size, but the 301 fits and has more capacity. It also has the anti-drainback valve.

95Z28A4 · **Joined:** Sun Mar 30, 2014 9:53 am **Posts:** 297

I use the WIX 51515XP (synthetic filter media). I buy filters by the dozen from http://www.rockauto.com . The stock sized filter is the WIX 51516XP. The 51515XP holds 11 ounces more than the 51516XP. The 51515XP has 8 more pleats than the 51516XP. I cut them both open and measured. Both have an anti-drainback valve. Otherwise the specs are the same per http://www.wixfilters.com .

weeks101 · **Joined:** Mon Jul 30, 2012 3:29 pm **Posts:** 747

Yeti wrote:

You know the bypass valve value of this filter ?

The M1-301 has a bypass valve pressure rating of 8-11 psi

thermorex · **Posted:** Mon May 18, 2015 2:58 pm

weeks101 wrote:

Yeti wrote:

You know the bypass valve value of this filter ?

The M1-301 has a bypass valve pressure rating of 8-11 psi

Then the stock filter is better, as I have never seen idling pressure less than 20 psi with 0w40 at 180 degrees (goes to about 15-17 psi at 200-ish degrees). This means the oil will never get filtration with the big filter. Seth, are you sure this is the value and not bigger pressure?

What CRD oil filter do you use?

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