Even if the rear main seal starts leaking in the future, you should not lose much oil, so it is not that big a deal. i think the oil in the turbo hoses is typical in a KJ CRD that has been run without EGR elimination and without venting the crankase to atmosphere.

Run the EHM hose under the vehicle and tie it off. No bottle or "filter" and you should be fine.

BTW, these motors have a LOT of crankase pressure, which is never a good thing. When we got ours at 17K miles, the rear main was already leaking. The EHM and SEGR (before GDE came on the scene) dropped the leak to a trickle. I waited a LONG time before the TC controversy seemed resolved, then got the dealer to put in a new (euro) TC for free when they had to fix the rear main leak under warranty.

Since your smoke problem started immediately after you "sealed" your crankcase, I am confident this is your problem and that as long as you have done little running with it plugged up, you shoud be OK. I forget, did you get a GDE tune yet? (Need to stop burning all that exhaust ASAP.) The ORM, in my opinion, is NOT a good idea, long-term, because your CEL is on all the time. When something happens that needs immediate attention, you will not know.

ALSO, make SURE you use a really solid plug in the line to the turbo that you removed from the cam cover and secure with a hose clamp. You REALLY do NOT want anything sucked into the turbo.

DOC

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2005 KJ CRD Ltd Detroit TrueTrac Bilsteins G2 GDE "HOT" ECU GDE TCM "Tow Tune" "euro" TC SEGR Weeks Elbow New HG at 130K ARPs Clean CAT aFe Filter Magnaflow Exhaust EHM Cumminos In-Tank Lift Pump Hayden Fan Clutch Nylon Fan VH Enabled with GDE lower shutoff point Recalibrated Temp Gauge Tekonsha Prodigy Sears P-1 ZDDP

Quit being such a drama queen. The EHM is on the "getting the most from your CRD" and includes information on how to do it correctly. Any of the things on the noob guide have potential to screw things up if if there are done incorrectly.

Sure you have a different opinion. But please dial back your flair for the dramatic.

_________________
http://www.Colorado4Wheel.com
"Its not about what you can DO with your Jeep, its about where you can GO with your Jeep."
Knowledgeable - But Caustic

Drama Queen , how would you like it if you blown out your seals cause you read something off the internet, I would be pissed, tell me how that oil going through the CCV is going to hurt any thing vs blown seals? And are you an engineer, do you think a free hose can discharge the same positive CC pressure that the factory negative CCV can accomplish?

Lets see same diameter hose going to atmosphere vs same diameter hose going to negative pressure turbo inlet? Or hose going to atmosphere and getting froze shut in the winter?

_________________
2006 LTD Bright Silver loaded with all the needed mods, CCV intact.
Proudly supporting CRD vendors, and their development of quality parts and accessories.
Equipped with HDS thermostat, plenty of heat, faster warm-ups, increased fuel mileage.

I am thinking 3 quarts should have gave you enough lube for the time being as long as that amount was able to return the the CC in time for the continuous lube cycle? Did you have any mechanical noises? Did the low oil light illuminate? Does it continue to leak with the filter can you made removed?

_________________
2006 LTD Bright Silver loaded with all the needed mods, CCV intact.
Proudly supporting CRD vendors, and their development of quality parts and accessories.
Equipped with HDS thermostat, plenty of heat, faster warm-ups, increased fuel mileage.

Well, I am pretty much mad at myself for not venting the bottle like I planned. I don't have the tune yet, the air intake was ripped at the bottom of the turbo where I first found oil leaking. There were no mechanical sounds or oil pressure light. The clack was starting to get a little louder right at the end. Oh btw I am in AZ since I haven't updated my location like previous poster asked

_________________
06 CRD Sport Light Khaki

82 VW rabbit truck aka Caddy
1.6diesel under construction but still runs

If I said I was and that my area of expertise was ICs engines and diesel engine calibration would that make a difference?

_________________
http://www.Colorado4Wheel.com
"Its not about what you can DO with your Jeep, its about where you can GO with your Jeep."
Knowledgeable - But Caustic

seadog,

Sounds like things are going to turn out ok for you. FWIW, 99.9 percent of guys here have read the NOOB guide. . . most of us think it's an excellent tutorial.

AND, 100% of the guys here who have a GDE tune say it's the best $500 they ever spent (leastwise on a vehicle

good luck

_________________
'05 Sport CRD 107k miles. NOBODY knows everything.

Would not matter if you said were Santa Claus, the engine is going to have more CC pressure with an atmospheric hose versus the CCV.

My Cummins had an engineered draft tube, and it was in the front of the engine high and dry where the heat of the rad could prevent ice up.

_________________
2006 LTD Bright Silver loaded with all the needed mods, CCV intact.
Proudly supporting CRD vendors, and their development of quality parts and accessories.
Equipped with HDS thermostat, plenty of heat, faster warm-ups, increased fuel mileage.

I would tread lightly here if I were you. There are a lot of us here who speak regularly with Sir Sam and Papaindigo on a myriad of Jeep issues directly related to this CRD engine. They have both been very very deeply intimate with these engines many times and have pretty much become paragons for this section in recent months.

Your opinion is that, your opinion. When you do your own work you take risks, whether you read it in an online forum or on a bathroom wall. You can't blame anyone but yourself no matter where you got the information.

You probably voted democrat too...

_________________
Silver 2006 KJ 2.8L CRD Limited:
GDE ECO Tune / Fumoto Valve / E-Tecno GX3123 7v Glow Plugs / 2nd Gen Fuel Head / Mishimoto RED Hoses / Rockers/Lifters @ 114k / Hayden FC + 11 Blade Nylon / Sears P1 Battery / Transgo 45RFE-HD2 Reprogramming Kit / Timken Front Bearings

So they checked the CC pressure with and without the EHM VS Stock VS ProVent? What were the results? Were they withing the normal VM CC pressure specs?

I agree, the OP messed up the job, but statements like the EHM will make your CRD run like a raped ape is misleading, and people especially noobs might think they will have catastrophic results if they do not follow the Noob guide, I think the Noob guide has lots of good points, but some of the pitfalls should be mentioned as well, would you or Sam be against this? Would it be terrible to say,

Warning if in any event the EHM should become blocked, you run the risk of blown seals and even more catastrophic engine failure, be sure the hose can breathe freely.

Remember the OP did not even introduce himself, he just went right to work on the mods not asking any questions or looking for any advice.

His first post was what went wrong.

BTW, I did not vote for either of the clowns on the top ticket, either way you were getting a Liberal, and who is to say Romney might not have passed some gun control measures with a Repub house and the Dem support. Trusting either of them, is like trusting what you read on the internet.

Any ways, do what ever you want, you can fight with me, or prevent this from happening again, and help this guy out, that would be more constructive.

_________________
2006 LTD Bright Silver loaded with all the needed mods, CCV intact.
Proudly supporting CRD vendors, and their development of quality parts and accessories.
Equipped with HDS thermostat, plenty of heat, faster warm-ups, increased fuel mileage.

Another EHM engine messed up? I'm not sure why people keep doing the EHM mods? The CCV oil dose not hurt your engine. The EGR does that. The oil may get onto your hoses and reduce their life, but without EGR being mixed in no harm. The EHM mod smells, freezes up and in alot of cases causes some other oil leak.

_________________
05 Liberty CRD Sport with Leather 115k
GDE ECO, No EGR, no FCV, (system gone)
Oil Drain plug P/N 090-039
K&N Air Filter, 2nd gen Fuel filter head
NEW Rockers & lifters
Mobil 1 0w-40
Stant 13519 195 deg inline Thermostat.
0 281 002 845 MAP
Etecno GX3123 7v Glow Plugs
Advance Gold 800CCA Battery
Traded it for a Quality VW TDI

If ehm wouldn't freeze, and except the fact it's a little messy, I don't see what it can hurt... All older engines had a kind of ehm, they were just venting the extra pressure in the air. I'd still recommend provent for anybody that wants to reduce the oil amount in the intake, but best way to protect the engine, we all admit it, it's a gde tune.

Regarding politics, we all know we have one party with 2 wings, lol. No matter who wins, it will be more or less some form of bs and the same people will laugh at the end if the day. Sadly, there is no gde tune to fix this...

_________________
2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.

Kjjet - You may not have an EHM but you have a Provent which has frozen in a couple of cases and caused similar issues. The main thing is to have the hoses draining down and ultimately a vent in case of freezing.

I do have a Provent and yes people have reported them freezing up. Mine dose not drain to the ground. It has a plug. I drain and clean it regularly. I would not recommend installing one unless you are committed to maintaining it correctly. To be honest I do not think it has a lot of benefit now that my EGR is gone. No... it will not increase the power in your engine. Just keeps things a little cleaner. That’s it.

_________________
05 Liberty CRD Sport with Leather 115k
GDE ECO, No EGR, no FCV, (system gone)
Oil Drain plug P/N 090-039
K&N Air Filter, 2nd gen Fuel filter head
NEW Rockers & lifters
Mobil 1 0w-40
Stant 13519 195 deg inline Thermostat.
0 281 002 845 MAP
Etecno GX3123 7v Glow Plugs
Advance Gold 800CCA Battery
Traded it for a Quality VW TDI

To all that have a provent without a cap/release valve for oil drain hose: install one (unless the oil drain hose is connected UNDER oil level in the oil pan). Leaving the oil drain hose uncapped/without a release valve, would lead to air suction through the oil drain hose due to negative pressure in provent caused by suction from intake. I've done that, and now after installing the release valve on the oil drain hose, the provent looks cleaner. I can't personally explain why, since after installing the valve, the suction from intake should be applied straight to crankcase, which I would think should lead to more oil in the provent... Maybe somebody can provide an explanation. Anyways, use of release valve is per provent specs, so it can't do any harm.

Kjjet, can you guess-timate the amount of oil you drain from provent oil release hose per 1000miles?

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.

I can go 2000 miles and only get 1oz and at the most 2oz between 5K oil changes. As long as you don't fill the oil to high. Just below max. Just changed the oil today. I have never added oil between Mobil 1 0w-40 changes.

_________________
05 Liberty CRD Sport with Leather 115k
GDE ECO, No EGR, no FCV, (system gone)
Oil Drain plug P/N 090-039
K&N Air Filter, 2nd gen Fuel filter head
NEW Rockers & lifters
Mobil 1 0w-40
Stant 13519 195 deg inline Thermostat.
0 281 002 845 MAP
Etecno GX3123 7v Glow Plugs
Advance Gold 800CCA Battery
Traded it for a Quality VW TDI

Ok, thanks a lot kjjet. Since I put the release valve I barely notice any oil being dropped on the ground, before were couple drops every time after I stopped the engine. I really don't understand why it's leaking less oil now, unless there is less crankcase pressure now... Is the pcv valve under some high pressure or its just a normal valve that opens at the slightest positive pressure in crankcase? Never messed with that and I have no clue...

_________________
2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.

Then why did you ask?



While its fine to point out I have relevant technical experience and expertise and the noob guide has become canon around here, I should point out that I am in fact human and do make mistakes, so its not unreasonable to question something I've stated.



Dude, seriously? How is that constructive at all? Please don't ever throw out sometimes political affiliation as an insult again.



You make a fair point, there is a scavenging effect with the turbo hose/CCV where it is. What would you say is beneficial to having this scavenging effect?




While I think thats a bit of an exaggeration it is fair to point out what can go wrong if you screw things up.

Warning: If you screw up the install of a new heater head your vehicle might burn to the ground.
Warning: If you screw up your oil change and all your oil leaks out of your engine you will most likely destroy the engine and turbo.
Warning: If you screw up cleaning your MAP you will screw up your MAP.
Warning: The bags your new parts come in present a suffocation hazard, do not place over head and then wrap electrical tap around your throat while binding your hands together without anyone else present who knows the safeword.

I'm not opposed to putting a disclaimer in there, but what is truely worthy of a disclaimer and what is not? Would have the disclaimer of making sure the EHM was vented have helped in this case? I'm not sure it would have.

_________________
http://www.Colorado4Wheel.com
"Its not about what you can DO with your Jeep, its about where you can GO with your Jeep."
Knowledgeable - But Caustic

Actually you do note to be careful with the MAP but not a Mod, I was going to mention that, but you already did it. In all fairness, it would be a good idea to warn noobs that mods have risks. Given the choice, I would rather screw up the MAP.

Also, while a lot of CRD owners have mechanical knowledge and I do believe the OP does as well, there are some people with no knowledge, and they think they can google or read a forum and they qualify as mechanic, so you never know who is reading.

I guess you can do what you want? I just would not want to be the one to wipe the seals out of my new to me Jeep, and if this thread does not warrant a simple warning, I do not know what does? Besides your words:

For those veterans out there if you have a suggestion, correction, general grievance, fan mail, hate mail, or wish to recommend some links to be added for various topics please PM me rather than clutter up the thread.

I suggest a warning, we do not want to see this repeated by the next Johnny come lately.

_________________
2006 LTD Bright Silver loaded with all the needed mods, CCV intact.
Proudly supporting CRD vendors, and their development of quality parts and accessories.
Equipped with HDS thermostat, plenty of heat, faster warm-ups, increased fuel mileage.

Oh, don't forget about this warning: Voting democrat is an insult. Lol.

Joke aside, don't want to get in between you guys, but too many warnings are not very useful IMO. Whoever decides to follow advices from this forum is doing this on his/her own risk. A general warning on the noob guide would be probably a good idea, especially useful for the type of people that need warning labels with "do not drink" on poison, antifreeze, etc. not trying to be ironic but there are such people, unfortunately...

Sir Sam, since you're the author of the noob guide, mind if I suggest something? Some of the sticky threads are not so useful anymore, probably for lots of people, do you think would be a good idea to link few of them (like the samco one for ex) in your noob guide and after that to have it unstickied? So far the noob guide, IMO, has access to over 90% of the most useful info on this crd forum, which is great. I'm thinking (and so far there are few of us) to ask some mod to unsticky some of them that are not so "hot" anymore.

_________________
2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.