Has anyone found the solution to this? I have the same problem after the serpentine belt flies off. I scanned the computer and it said the cam shaft position sensor had a malfunction I replaced that with no luck. I then replaced the crankshaft position sensor and got it started drove it around no problems, after shutting it off it failed to restart. The car is currently at a VM Motori shop in Tampa. The Mechanic has verified it is in time, it started and said it wont restart. Has anyone figured out this issue after the serpentine belt breaks or slips off????

It might be something unrelated.

Is it getting fuel?
Maybe there is air trapped in the fuel rail?

Where is this VM shop in Tampa?

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Is the engine in either case registering a crank position signal? If it won't, no fire. Also, the rail pressure must hit several thousand prior to ECU firing the injectors...........

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2005 Liberty CRD,fixed the rockers and a couple more things,GDE Hot tune,Weeks Stage 1 and 2 EGR delete,Hot Diesel solutions Tstat assembly(wonderful heat!), ARP studs, OME 1.5" lift.....thanks Seth!

The VM shop is actually called Florida Detroit Diesel. Fuel pressure was 9000psi and he said it only needs 2500psi to start. Looks like it's going to jeep to see what they come up with, maybe a computer error or needs a re flash? Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

I just wanted to post an update...
With the VM Diesel engine if the serpentine belt breaks or shreds it will throw the engine out of time. I'm not 100% on this however, I believe the cause is when belt breaks the belt pieces tend to find their way into the timing belt cover and they'll get in between the pulleys and the belt and cause it to jump time without damaging the timing belt. Mine was 30 degrees out and broke all of my rocker arms. If you have squeaking coming from your belt area, change your serpentine belt and alternator decoupler pulley!!!

Sorry, but this is not accurate.

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Jeep Liberty 2.8L CRD
Chevy Colorado/GMC Canyon 2.8L Duramax

This...


And this...


Contradict each other.

So what REALLY happened?

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Hope everyone enjoyed the holidays!

I realize this is a somewhat ancient thread, but while stumbling around looking for unrelated serpentine info, landed here.

VERY curious how this ended; RESOLUTION?

- IF YOU REMOVE THE UPPER THREE TIMING COVER MOUNTING SCREWS, YOU CAN GENTLY PRY THE COVER SLIGHTLY FORWARD AND PEEK INTO THE TIMING CHAMBER TO CONFIRM WHETHER YOUR BELT IS STILL INTACT, if not whether your timing is still accurate. A quick, simple and useful way to diagnose the most basic suspect. Frankly, when I had mine apart I should have drilled a 1/4" hole in the tbelt cover above one of the cams; that would have permitted instant tbelt confirmation when diagnosing issues (using gorilla-tape patch over hole). Actually, come to think of it leaning the tbelt cover forward would likely allow you to view the front of the cam sprockets just enough to confirm the cam-to-cam timing condition, albeit requiring manual crank rotation and provided you made alignment marks between cam sprockets during tbelt installation.
I'm reflecting on the likelihood of a jammed serpentine throwing-off timing. Of this I'm 99% certain: once the engine has already stopped, there's no way the starter's force could force the tbelt to skip a tooth. Think about it: the resistance is occuring at the jammed serpentine, what do the timing components care? They are minding their own bizness patiently waiting for the unrelated obstruction to allow them to Sally forth. THEY are not the subjects of the crank-resistance, so no slippage.
Underway, however, at the moment when the serpentine causes a jam... although the combustion process is still originating force at the crank, inertia is a beast.
First, a running CRD generates a LOT of power; so A#1, adiós jammed serpentine, tensioner, idler, fan... Whatever component of the serpentine belt system that is challenging a running CRD is going to lose.
Or is it? Bottom line, in that instant it is the strength of a jammed serpentine versus the strength of the rubber teeth on the timing belt. Rubber vs. Rubber. I default to the position that, unless the tbelt and/or its tensioner are old and/or worn, the tbelt would still provide adequate resistance to spin the crank within the jammed serpentine, but making one hell of a noise that would alert any but the deaf to pull the f over and turn-off the ignition. And Even the deaf would smell/see the toasting serp-smoke.
Opinions?
I'm gonna' start a thread re my unrelated serp questions.
Spoken too often, ya' gotta' love LJ's search algorithm (not). Google does a better job of navigating you to pertinent LJ theads than the site's own search engine. Sheesh.

Also, there are some very goofy notions floating-about on various serpentine-belt related threads, LJ & elsewhere:
- NO way can a serpentine belt enter the timing belt housing.
Who told (you) that, Scotty's apprentice? You can't "beam" through the separating metal cover!
- NO way can a timing belt "correct itself" if it has jumped a tooth. Sorry, but that is pretty funny. Look, the engine runs in only ONE direction; putting your vehicle in REVERSE occurs in the Trans, not the engine. THEREFORE, if a condition has occured which has caused a tbelt to skip a tooth/teeth (typically = hi-torque versus worn belt/tensioner/idler, etc) the force of the rotating engine can ONLY make it WORSE. ONE direction, okay?

Cheers.

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