Guys,

I've found an '05 CRD for a smoking deal. Doesn't run right.

Owner has had chryco techs (idiots) check it over, replace and update fuel filter as that was "certainly the problem", and other things like this.

They finally determined that it doesn't sound as though it has compression on cylinder #2.

That doesn't sound right to me. They haven't disassembled the motor, and it is my understanding that to access the injectors appropriately in order to do a compression test, you need to remove the complete timing cover (front and rear) and associated pieces, then the valve cover with cams. So, I'm hearing off of that that they're still idiots (big surprise) for using the "audible" test with a mechanic's stethoscope to determine "the sure cause of the problem"

it's a 2.8 with 140k on the ticker. Never had a timing belt done. To me, that screams bad rockers causing the issue, directly resulting from a loose/skipped belt.

It will run, but not well, and not well enough to drive.

I'm no stranger to diesels, having been a semi mechanic for some time, and having grown up with a 1986 Jeep Comanche with a Renault 2.1l Turbo diesel (I actually took my driver's test in this truck), I do know more than the average bear about working on these finicky European diesels.

I'm confident I could figure this out on my own....but like any good mechanic, I want to know exactly what I'm getting into so I don't look like a monky promiscuously involved with a coconut the first time around.

Are there any complete step by step threads on doing this? I've looked at pretty much every 2.8 CRD youtube video. Replacing the belt itself is gonna be simple....I don't need any info on that. Just specifically removing the upper end, replacing the rockers and lifters, perhaps what else that is known bad to look out for (the EGR buildup is a known issue), etc. Or perhaps you have another diagnosis on this.

I won't be buying this jeep unless I can come up with one guaranteed possibility, or several, and have a rough idea of what the cost in parts to repair will be. It needs to be a known quantity for this to be worth my while...I am not planning to sell it, so it cannot be a money pit.

Thanks,

Pat

Try this link for some information....do not take the timing belt replacement too lightly ....check out Sams Noob Guide and the CRD Tech section.

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=74149

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2002 Export CRD 2.5 Sport

A renault 2.1L is 10x harder to work on, and requires the same process to lock everything down as the VM 2.8.l I think that will be fine.

Thanks for the link.

Best professional judgement guess with no guarantee is that at 140,000 with no timing belt job done is that the engine is out of time and one or more rockers are crushed, as designed, due to piston hitting valve. Diagnosis methods without opening engine would include:
1. seeing if the flywheel and cam timing pins can be inserted properly, if not it's out of time/if so it's still in time but I'd still bet on rocker damage
2. not that I'd recommend running it much if at all but there are several videos with sound of the CRD with bad rockers and a classic symptom appears to be puffs of air out of the intake (remove passenger side CAC hose down at the FCV where it hooks to the engine and see if it's blowing air).

My bet is at minimum it needs a serpentine belt job (belt ca. $40 plus idlers and maybe a serpentine belt tensioner - call it $250 in parts if all need doing); a timing belt job (if everything including water pump is done say $600 in parts); and 16 new rockers/lifters (if you shop around can be had over the pond with shipping for like $500-600 plus a few $s for new injector "O" rings and crush washers). Tools can be rented from GDE although cam pins can be fabricated (I've posted dimensions) from bolts and the 05 FSM shows how to use a 6mm or 1/4" allen key for a flywheel pin which leaves you only needing a good cam sprocket holding tool (cam pins are not enough) and there are plenty of posts on the TB job plus Sir Sam's videos although IMHO while it improves access you don't need to remove as much front end stuff.

I don't know that there is a full rocker/lifter writeup posted yet but several folks have done the job and there are pictures. If you are doing the TB job you are nearly there. Extra steps, at least a partial list, IIRC would be to to pull the injectors and fuel rail; pull the valve cover with cams (I suspect the FCV assembly can come with it if the EGR pipe is disconnected); remove rockers and lifters and install new; reverse process. As I understand it the hard part of reversing the process is reinstalling the valve cover without dislodging the rockers but that apparently can be done by fabricating, again from bolts, quide pins that are inserted into the head while installing the cover. Obviouisly this is by no means a full listing of the extra steps but you get the idea.

PS with the possible exception of the rockers/lifters ID Parts is a pretty good source for the needed parts.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

Thank you.

This KJ is darn near mint.
Limited, power, leather (no heat), a/c etc. Nice shape. He won't take a dime less than 3800. I'm convinced that it's the rockers, and estimating value of that at $1200 in parts, on the high side, just to be safe.

Is it a reasonable purchase? I don't think it's quite cheap enough to keep, but I want one...so there's some concessions to be made. I do think that if I were to fix and sell it, that's a decent price...so long as there isn't anything else wrong with it.

I would go a little higher, like $1500 in parts. + you may want to send the injectors out to a shop for testing/ cleaning. When you have a missfire on a cyl or two the injectors get pluged up and can use a good cleaning.

I have done the rockers to CRD's its not to bad, just takes time.

Where are you located? There may be someone near by to help?

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05 Liberty CRD Sport with Leather 115k
GDE ECO, No EGR, no FCV, (system gone)
Oil Drain plug P/N 090-039
K&N Air Filter, 2nd gen Fuel filter head
NEW Rockers & lifters
Mobil 1 0w-40
Stant 13519 195 deg inline Thermostat.
0 281 002 845 MAP
Etecno GX3123 7v Glow Plugs
Advance Gold 800CCA Battery
Traded it for a Quality VW TDI

Dang it I hate it when my posts disappear or don't "take" so to catch up while ignoring brakes, tires, battery and such

Yes ca. $1,500 is closer to the mark for everything associated with serp belt, TB/WP, and rockers/lifters.

But I'd add, since you don't know history
1. oil and filter, air filter, ATF and filter (try viewtopic.php?f=5&t=73892 to get rid of all old fluid), antifreeze (do several fill/drain with clean water to get rid of old), transfer case, and differential. Say $200.
2. a must before purchase - pull airbox to turbo hose and check turbo for play, slight for/aft ok, virtually no side to side ok - if airbox to turbo hose is torn it's $65 at dealer
3. near or long term Samco CAC hoses $250
4. I'd consider a GDE tune at $500 a must with new rockers/lifters
Which runs total up to ca. $2,500 if you DIY which is not bad.

That said you might want to PM/email Sir Sam for his opinion as he has brought several back from the dead.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

Darn cancel button! I had to re-write this.

I did talk to Sir Sam over on ComancheClub, have known him for awhile.

Thanks for all the info. Having been around BIG diesels for awhile, I did check the basics. Turbo is good. all tubes/hoses are good, no blockage preventing it from being oiled.

I don't think I'll consider having someone else tune it for me. Likely will have the tools and knowledge around to get it done here.

Fluids were definitely going to be added to that. I was more thinking simple cost of getting it back to running.

We'll see if I buy it or not. To date, the most expensive vehicle I've bought to keep was $1200. Anything more expensive than that has been fixed, and immediately resold. I've no interest in actually being mad when something gets damaged in a parking lot etc....just saves headache. Which isn't to say my vehicles aren't nice...but they're comparable to a blem battery or something of that nature. Just as good, but not quite perfect.


Thanks guys for your help and support. This thing will likely be coming home with me early next week. If I can keep cost under $5500, then selling my xj and profit off of the blue KJ will cover it, and I'm happy with that...I consider it a wash. Any more than that, and I won't keep it.