Oil and Bypass Filter Change w/Pics

amslube · **Posted:** Wed Mar 13, 2013 9:49 am

Yesterday I did my oil, filter, and bypass filter maintenance on my wife's CRD:

I always fill both oil filters completely with oil to prevent an extended period of no oil pressure when first starting the engine. It takes about 1-1/2+ quarts of oil to fill both filters.

Here is the location of my filters.

The filter mount must be unbolted from the bracket to remove the filters.

Install both oil filled oil filters and bolt the filter mount to the bracket.

Fill the crankcase with oil. 8 quarts is required to fill the filters and bring the oil level to about 1/8" below the full mark on the dipstick.

Glend · **Posted:** Wed Mar 13, 2013 11:32 am

Nice gear but where dihd you put your Provent? And isn't that oil too thin for the CRD which is spec'd for a heavier weight top number?

kjjet · **Posted:** Wed Mar 13, 2013 12:39 pm

Glend wrote:

Nice gear but where dihd you put your Provent? And isn't that oil too thin for the CRD which is spec'd for a heavier weight top number?

Agreed...That's not the correct oil for a CRD. I would use a -40 for sure. Sorry to say but i think pumping the oil way up there then back into the engine spells trouble to me. Hard on the oil pump? dry starts? and hope it dose not leak.

Not for me.

thermorex · **Posted:** Wed Mar 13, 2013 12:48 pm

kjjet wrote:

Glend wrote:

Nice gear but where dihd you put your Provent? And isn't that oil too thin for the CRD which is spec'd for a heavier weight top number?

Agreed...That's not the correct oil for a CRD. I would use a -40 for sure. Sorry to say but i think pumping the oil way up there then back into the engine spells trouble to me. Hard on the oil pump? dry starts? and hope it dose not leak.

Not for me.

That's exactly my concern, routing the oil back and forth plus the filter restrictions. It may work well, but I'm not sure. That's the reason I usually take out any factory transmission cooler when planning to improve cooling by adding a better one.

Never the less, it's a neat setup if the oil can flow well enough back and forth to the engine.

amslube · **Posted:** Wed Mar 13, 2013 2:53 pm

Only about 10% of the oil flow is routed through the bypass filter so there is never any oil starvation. Also 1/2" hose to and from the filter mount about 8' total is going to reduce pressure and oil volumn to the engine? I don't think so, and if it was, I would think I would have had failures, especially turbo, by now after 70,000+ miles with the system installed.

Some things to think about with a little thinner oil...a bit lower viscosity means more volumn of oil flows at a given pressure. More volumn through small bearing clearances cools and lubricates components better than less volumn. Very important for turbo bushings. Also a lower viscosity oil pumps more easily requiring less HP, therefore improves MPG a bit. As long as the oil maintains viscosity, is shear stable, contains a robust ZDDP package, has a high film strength, and adequate TBN, I don't see any issue in using a 5W-30. Many XW-40 motor oils will shear back to a 30 wt. and lose TBN in a very short period, but only OA tells the true story. I base my choice on oil manufacturers recommendation, OA results in my CRD, my experience and OA using this in my '01 Cummins (recommended 15W-40) for 265,000 miles/11 years. By the way, I am also using this in my 2011 Ram Cummins monitoring with OA.

Seems many have already had component failures, turbos, lower ends, rockers, using the recommended oil viscosity with as many miles or less than what I have on my CRD (93,500 miles). I plan on keeping this vehicle for several years yet or more and will report if and when anything unusual happens...time and mileage will tell.

Auberon · **Posted:** Fri Mar 15, 2013 5:20 am

Seems to me that it depends on whether it is a Base stock of Group I, II or III ranked base for the oil with Class I being fully synthetic and Class III permisible "natural" base - stock . My understanding is that it is when the base for the oil is Stage II or III then you get molecular breakdown. They start off with varying length molecules that decomp to a shorter length losing efficacy. Along with this is the extra loading and using up of the reagents that contribute to pour-point (that lower number) and the stabilisers for the upper temp shear-resistance.

These aren't my only selection parameters - also Flash Point, VI etc has a bearing but this is not about selecting an oil.

I think it is important to consider not only the API ratings but the ACEA ratings - will the oil "hold" structure in service for the intended interval? etc. These have far more meaning than they seem to be given credit for and until I wade through the body of work I am currently reading have been my primary (plus Chrysler recommendation) guidance for oil selection.

I am a proponent of by-pass oil filters and am currently working on trying to plan one into the Australian under-hood arrangement. A puzzle to say the least but well on the way to being solved :dizzy:

. That 10 % approx that is hived off for by-pass filtration will put no extra load on the pump as the full-flow filter will still be carrying 90% of flow. There is no question that this is attainable by the oil pump.

IF resistance is higher in the lines to the by-pass filter it weill be as a rsult of further flow restrictions and the default flow will be through the primary (full-flow) filter - it will merely restrict how much flow the by-pass unit gets will it not?

Thinner oils and greater flow on a viscosity rating that is measured at 100 deg C? - It will not going vary so much when it changes by 10 on THAT index. Surely VI (Viscosity Index) is more important in this context.
I come back to my point regarding base stock Groups and the relastionship to decomposition.

Cudos to by-pass filters.

Oil and Bypass Filter Change w/Pics

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