bypass oil filter?

G-funk · **Posted:** Sat Mar 17, 2007 12:56 am

has anyone seen one for us? I've seen ads for the FS2500 and others but I haven't found one yet with applications for the liberty.

retmil46 · **Posted:** Sat Mar 17, 2007 1:17 am

I talked to the FS2500 guys a few months back and got some info from them in the mail. According to them, they actually did come up with a kit and performed a couple installs on a CRD.

However, you're talking $500 or better for one of their rigs. :shock:

That would pay for quite a few oil changes.

G-funk · **Posted:** Sat Mar 17, 2007 12:55 pm

that's also cheaper than an engine rebuild

I'm just thinking if I want to run a exhaust, programer, and intake, more soot and other stuff will get inthe oil and this will get it out.

ccattie · **Posted:** Mon Mar 19, 2007 11:49 am

I've got an Amsoil dual filter bypass system, but I cant figure out where to stick the darn thing.
-c

Stan Wright · **Posted:** Mon Mar 19, 2007 12:17 pm

I can see Tee'ing into the oil sender port for a source of the oil. Where would we dump the filtered oil back in at?

retmil46 · **Posted:** Mon Mar 19, 2007 12:18 pm

G-funk wrote:

that's also cheaper than an engine rebuild

I'm just thinking if I want to run a exhaust, programer, and intake, more soot and other stuff will get inthe oil and this will get it out.

And doing the EGR ORM is a LOT cheaper than a bypass filter.

That's where a major amount of the soot in our oil is coming from, and why they developed CI-4 and CI-4+ rated oils - to handle the extra soot loading that would come from an EGR system.

Did a flush on the engine oil yesterday. After a 10 mile trip last night, oil on the dipstick still looked like new oil with only a little tint of black. I want to see how long it takes to turn black, and what kind of shape it's in (oil analysis) after 3000 miles, with no EGR dumping soot in the engine.

Everyone's harping on better fuel mileage and performance with this mod, but hardly anyone's mentioned that it will also make the oil and the engine last longer without having all that extra soot dumped thru it.

G-funk · **Posted:** Mon Mar 19, 2007 1:53 pm

Stan Wright wrote:

I can see Tee'ing into the oil sender port for a source of the oil. Where would we dump the filtered oil back in at?

the return would have to go either into the valve cover or the oil pan. there is an unused oil port on the block or filter location or head of most engines I've seen.

Stan Wright · **Posted:** Mon Mar 19, 2007 3:57 pm

G-funk wrote:

...of most engines I've seen.

I agree. All the American engines I've messed with have plenty of NPT ports for the oil, water, etc. This Italian job has been a pain in my @ss. I still can't find a port for my water temperature sender. What ports I do find are metric and sealed with an o-ring. Luckily, the oil sender port was 1/8" NPT.

There is a plug in the valve cover near the thermostat housing that appears to just dump into the valve cover. I'm sure it's metric though. :cry:

G-funk · **Posted:** Tue Mar 20, 2007 1:17 am

Stan Wright wrote:

G-funk wrote:

...of most engines I've seen.

I agree. All the American engines I've messed with have plenty of NPT ports for the oil, water, etc. This Italian job has been a pain in my @ss. I still can't find a port for my water temperature sender. What ports I do find are metric and sealed with an o-ring. Luckily, the oil sender port was 1/8" NPT.

There is a plug in the valve cover near the thermostat housing that appears to just dump into the valve cover. I'm sure it's metric though. :cry:

Even if it is metric there are a lot of good machine shops around that can make an adapter.

Why can't the Italians just put in extra ports like everyone else. My old Toyota had three without looking. there is one on the back side of the head on the passenger side on the Honda B series, that's where I would tap in for the turbo systems I've put in.

I haven't really looked too much at this engine yet, just been lazy.

DocB · **Posted:** Tue Mar 20, 2007 1:54 am

Supply-tap into the main oil galley, passenger side.1/4" NPT
Return-T into drain line from turbo to block.

G-funk · **Posted:** Tue Mar 20, 2007 2:09 am

DocB wrote:

Supply-tap into the main oil galley, passenger side.1/4" NPT
Return-T into drain line from turbo to block.

sure if you want to the easy way

thanks for the info, I'll check it out.

LanduytG · **Joined:** Sun Dec 11, 2005 6:59 am **Posts:** 188

DocB wrote:

Supply-tap into the main oil galley, passenger side.1/4" NPT
Return-T into drain line from turbo to block.

I do not recommend teeing into the turbo drain line. Return back to the oil fill cap, valve cover or pan. I don't remeber for sure when I had a pan here but I seem to remember a spare plug on the pan.

Greg

retmil46 · **Posted:** Tue Mar 20, 2007 10:58 am

LanduytG wrote:

DocB wrote:

Supply-tap into the main oil galley, passenger side.1/4" NPT
Return-T into drain line from turbo to block.

I do not recommend teeing into the turbo drain line. Return back to the oil fill cap, valve cover or pan. I don't remeber for sure when I had a pan here but I seem to remember a spare plug on the pan.

Greg

Yep, up on the front of the pan - directly behind and about 1 1/2" away from the front axle.

Stan Wright · **Posted:** Tue Mar 20, 2007 1:04 pm

There's another one about a foot above the filter, but it's pretty much blocked by the exhaust. They're both probably some Armenian metric thread.

DocB · **Posted:** Mon Mar 11, 2013 7:25 pm

I just checked the oil level again at 1100 miles since last oil change.

The oil is VERY clear. Made me smile.

Just thought some of you might be interested.

P.S. Last OCI was 16,575, and Blackstone said run her out longer.

CATCRD · **Posted:** Mon Mar 11, 2013 11:25 pm

DocB wrote:

I just checked the oil level again at 1100 miles since last oil change.

The oil is VERY clear. Made me smile.

Just thought some of you might be interested.

P.S. Last OCI was 16,575, and Blackstone said run her out longer.

What oil are you using? Mind posting your blackstone report in the oil analysis thread?

DocB · **Posted:** Mon Mar 11, 2013 11:51 pm

Using 50/50 M1 0W-40 and TDT 5W-40 presently.

I think the TDT is a better oil from the 2nd to last UOA. Just trying to use up the 0W.

Then again, it might be a better oil to use in the race car.

Been trying to post up the Blackstone report, working on it.
Maybe someone could help me to figure out how to black out the personal info.

Srytrucker · **Posted:** Tue Mar 12, 2013 1:19 am

you can edit personal with any photo editing software if the scan is a jpeg aw even the basic one works good or just use white out and scan the report.

Cowpie1 · **Posted:** Tue Mar 12, 2013 4:41 am

If I may add a little perspective to this oil debate. I have been running heavy class 8 trucks for several decades. As far as the engines lasting with or without bypass filtration, of course the one running cleaner oil is apt to have fewer problems. But there is ample evidence that even without bypass filtration, heavy diesels are still going over 1 million miles before overhauls or inframes just like their pre-emission counterparts did. I took one truck to 1.4 million miles without having to open the engine, and my last one I took to just shy of 1 million before purchasing the truck I have now. (would easily have gone longer, but due to other issues, it made sound financial sense to purchase the one I have how. And the old truck has gone over 1 mil with the new owner) The CI-4+ and CJ-4 oils have done a real stellar job of controlling soot bonding that leads to increased wear. And with our CRD's, we are talking about only EGR and not DPF and SCR added to the mix like the newest diesels.

I don't do it as often as I probably should, but I have run an occasional oil sample on oil out of my CRD when I changed it. Even before I did the ECM tune that greatly reduced EGR, the soot level of the used oil at a normal OEM recommended oil change interval was nothing to get worked up over. It was still far from being in the range that would be of major concern.

Oil bypass filtration is always a positive, but to how much it is for the cost and hassle involved? I guess that depends on how anal you are about things. I use bypass filtration religiously on my semi's, but then they have all been taken to between 20,000 and 30,000 miles between oil changes (depending on engine make and model). I have never seen the cost effectiveness or need for bypass filtration on the Liberty. OIl samples did not suggest that soot was a problem that needed to be controlled better before the GD tune, and since then, the soot level is even less. And we're only talking about 7 quarts of oil and a filter here. Hardly a wallet buster to change the oil at recommended intervals. But I guess I have to deal with 10 gallon sumps with my semi's, so the CRD seems like changing oil in my lawn mower.

Just use a quality filter, a good CJ-4 rated oil, and follow recommended OCI's. Follow sound maintenance practices. You will be fine. Chances are, there are many other things that will go wrong before anything major that is oil related. And even without bypass filtration, if driven properly and maintained properly, the CRD engine, in most cases, will outlast the vehicle itself for most folks. But then, there are always folks just looking for the next project to do to a vehicle. I don't have quite the time or inclination for that as some folks do.

amslube · **Posted:** Wed Mar 13, 2013 9:07 am

Here's mine, AMSOIL unit http://www.syntheticlubes.com/crd_bypass.html. It's been on the Liberty for about 75K miles. Just did an oil and filter change yesterday. I plan on posting some pics of the procedure in the near future.

bypass oil filter?

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