No power to starter

adventuredog · **Joined:** Fri Mar 22, 2013 5:19 am **Posts:** 8

My 05 crd is leaking fuel from the #3 injector line and I have parts on order. I have been driving around a little bit while i wait for parts to arrive. Today I fired it up, ran it over to a friends house and shut it off. When I went to start it idled for a second or two and then
stalled. I primed it and same thing. Then, it stopped turning over all together as in no power to the starter. Additionally, the shifter will not come out of park with the key turned on and my foot on the brake. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what may have happened?

CRD injector lines. Part # "6803 5645 AA" This part # will get you all four lines.

adventuredog · **Joined:** Fri Mar 22, 2013 5:19 am **Posts:** 8

yes ok been searching around here. the fuel injector issue and stalling not related in this case i don't think...
my shifter is really sloppy. took shifter cover off and had a poke around. jammed shifter forward and turned key and it fired. stalled several times but then it ran enough for me to get it home into my garage. any thoughts would be appreciated. :2cents:

Srytrucker · **Posted:** Fri Mar 29, 2013 9:36 pm

Shifting /transmission issues relate to transmission service do you know if the trans filters (there are 2) & fluid have been replaced. Usually these transmissions are pretty reliable unless neglected.
Now for Injectors find a Bosch service center as thats what we got in our little tractors.Good luck.

Shelby was having these codes for busted pan filter
P0700 Transmission Control System
P0731 Gear 1 Incorrect Ratio.
your issues could have something to do with tired /busted filters and trans fluid.

adventuredog · **Joined:** Fri Mar 22, 2013 5:19 am **Posts:** 8

its due for a trans service to be sure. i disconnected the aircraft wire that leads to the sensor under the steering wheel and it starts now. i wonder if i should leave it disconnected or what is the appropriate service?

as for injectors, i had them tested last year and replaced one. i'm wondering if i need an injector and hoping not. the number 3 injector line is weeping fuel at the fitting and diesel is pooling on top of the motor. that is why i ordered fuel lines. i am hoping that solves the problem. a faulty injector has different symptoms no?

naturist · **Posted:** Mon Apr 01, 2013 1:51 pm

I just had mine refuse to crank, as in no power to the starter, saturday morning. Battery is new, ditto alternator, put a volt meter on it, 12.2 volts until you turn the key, then it drops to 11.8 volts, and makes no sounds, holding 11.8 volts when you try to crank it. Turns out to be a little tiny tang that sticks out the back of the ignition switch broke off.

The part is $68 from the dealer.

This would have noting to do with the OP's original problem, but might be related to to the subsequent no-crank condition.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Mon Apr 01, 2013 4:26 pm

If by a "tang" you mean the rod from the key switch on the right side of the steering column that engages the ignition switch on the left side of the steering column a Dorman replacement (PN 924704) runs ca. $27 and there is a good how to install video at http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-45278-924-704.aspx

adventuredog · **Joined:** Fri Mar 22, 2013 5:19 am **Posts:** 8

replaced the ignition switch actuator part from dorman and eliminated the stalling problem

danoid · **Posted:** Sun Apr 07, 2013 2:33 pm

Glad I saw this. Happened to me too. Dealer quoted $1200 for new steering column. And it's backorderred.

I'm getting one from Autozone today and tomorrow the dealer will get a little visit.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sun Apr 07, 2013 3:17 pm

danoid - not a bad deal for the dealer especially if all they "really" do for that $1,200 quote is replace the $30 part.

Just to get it out there see viewtopic.php?f=5&t=61233&p=678574&hilit=+brother#p678574 for diagnosis on a bad actuator pin or bad ignition switch (driver side of steering column) neither of which is an expensive part.

Also don't forget the shift interlock that prevents starting in gear. About that geordi says "Pull the shield off the top of the gear shifter, there are 2 small cables in there; the passenger-side one is the sensor cable, it's not electrical, it's an aircraft wire; the sensor is actually located under the steering wheel. Unhooked, problem solved permanently. I thought of a quick way to test the actuator cable without pulling anything apart on the shifter console - With the engine off and in park, pull back slightly on the shifter to apply tension, and try cranking the engine. If it doesn't go... The cable is the culprit b/c the tolerance (and how much it moves normally) isn't much. The cable is pushed toward the front of the vehicle when the selector is in park, and just shifts backwards slightly when the selector is anywhere else. All you need to do is unclip the end of the cable, and push the end into the sheath until it stops (about 1/4") and tuck it away in there. This won't affect anything else in the operation of your CRD, the shift interlock (that foot-on-brake-to-shift) idiot switch will still be there and functioning... Unless that 2-wire connector happens to "fall out" like it did on mine. Strange how that happens sometimes. "

danoid · **Posted:** Mon Apr 08, 2013 6:03 am

I already have the part from AutoZone.

Dealership will be getting a visit this morning.

Luckily the steering column is on backorder and should be cancel-able.

naturist · **Posted:** Mon Apr 08, 2013 2:20 pm

@danoid, as annoying as it is to have it happen and have to fork over $30 or $100 or $150 to get it repaired, it is gratifying to find your experience saves a bro' $1,000 or more for unnecessary repairs.

Those clowns must have a boat payment due.

And I guess catching someone trying to put one over on ya like that is, uh, an educational experience. (note, please, I am not attempting to accuse anybody of trying to steal or commit fraud here. It is entirely possible that they didn't know any better. Come to think of it, that isn't very soothing, is it?)

danoid · **Posted:** Mon Apr 08, 2013 3:55 pm

Oh, they knew. The service rep had a knowing smile when I walked in with the little box and told him to cancel the steering column order. He tried to weasel out of it by saying 'It's all MOPAR has.' I replied that I didn't care where it was coming from, I didn't want that particular sexual intercourse.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Mon Apr 08, 2013 4:52 pm

That may or may not be all Mopar has or it may be all that their parts guy can find. However this part is common to a bunch of DCJ vehicles and a well known failure point and I know my dealer would just pop over to NAPA for the part before sticking me with a new steering column if in fact Mopar does not stock it.

danoid · **Posted:** Mon Apr 08, 2013 6:54 pm

It is all MOPAR carries. They have the entire steering column - that's it. I looked in the same system they do.

So the fleecing comes directly from Chrysler - my dealership just willingly participated without giving me any options. I had to discover the options here.

THANKS AGAIN!

GreenDieselEngineering · **Joined:** Sun Jun 07, 2009 5:10 pm **Posts:** 1111

I wonder if Chrysler has internal meetings to better understand why their dealer network is the worst in the industry? My local dealer will not even price match when I show them the wholesale online price vs. MSRP. I rarely use them , except in a pinch.

Hexus · **Posted:** Tue Apr 09, 2013 7:47 am

I guess I'm lucky, while they tried to fleece me on labor for my repairs before I did it myself, my local Stealership has always given me "garage" pricing on any parts I've ordered from them so I didn't pay full MSRP.

No power to starter

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