camshaft locking pins

CobraDreaming · **Joined:** Tue Aug 23, 2011 9:24 pm **Posts:** 20

Planning on doing a TB swap in a couple of weeks then realized I need camshaft pins. Started googling and only seeing places in the UK that have them. $$$ for shipping and time may be a factor. Have also seen references on here of people that have "rolled their own" but really didn't find any info on how to do that.

Can anyone provide info on what they did making their own? What is the diameter of the pins. Perhaps drill bits or some such work? Or are the threads a key component?

Thanks for any help / advice

msilbernagel · **Posted:** Tue Apr 09, 2013 8:37 pm

Check out this thread, from last October: viewtopic.php?f=98&t=72201

FYI - Mark

CobraDreaming · **Joined:** Tue Aug 23, 2011 9:24 pm **Posts:** 20

Wow. My search skills suck :lol:

Thanks so much

striperman36 · **Posted:** Wed Apr 10, 2013 10:15 am

I'd also get the crankshaft pin. the 3 tools cost about 100 bills

papaindigo · **Posted:** Wed Apr 10, 2013 10:40 am

Just to be clear IMHO you need 4 timing locking tools to do the TB job
1. 1@ intake and exhaust cam pins - can be either the Miller tools or, as noted, solid substitutes can be fabricated out of proper length/thread bolts - allen wrenchs and drill bits are not IMHO acceptable substitutes
2. flywheel/crankshaft locking pin - can be either the Miller tool or a 6mm or 1/4" allen wrench (see 05 FSM instructions) if you pay attention to the allen wrench angle per the FSM instructions - drill bits are not IMHO acceptable substitute
3. a cam gear locking tool - Miller tool is fine but pricey. There are a number of alternatives from DIY ones to TDI tools as the primary function is to lock the cam gears together in one place while the cam nuts are undone or torqued down because the cam pins won't stand the strain. I see no reason why any of the cam locking tools should cause any problem provide a) you mark a tooth on each cam gear and the adjacent housing and 2 opposing cam gears and b) make sure to double/triple check the marks and the cam/crank pins after the new TB is installed.

Of course you need other routine tools but the above is what's needed, one way or another, to make sure the job is done right and the engine is timed properly when the job is finished.

Hexus · **Posted:** Wed Apr 10, 2013 10:56 am

You CAN make your own timing pins, people on these forums have done it.

You can also go over Niagara Falls in a barrel, people have done that too....

You can get your very own set of Sealey tools for $120 shipped brand new in the box from Great Britain, it's Sealey VSE5056.

Google that and you'll find the whole set with VM.1052, VM.1053, and VM.1089 as well as the tensioning wrench for the tensioner and 2 other tools you will probably never use.

If you are taking the cam gears off, I wouldn't personally do it with anything but the VM.1085.

I bought one from a member here because the online prices are redonkulous, but there are a lot of places/people that rent them, and I would strongly advise you use it (Remember the Barrel?).

Listed Miller tools:

http://www.toolsource.com/camshaft-locking-intake-p-113021.html - $44 - Intake

http://www.toolsource.com/camshaft-locking-exhaust-p-113020.html - $65 - Exhaust

http://www.toolsource.com/atdc-degree-p-133926.html - $30 - 90 PTDC Locking Pin

Thtat's $109 right there without shipping and that doesn't include the tensioner wrench or a nice abs plastic case for it all....

Whatever you do, good luck!

striperman36 · **Posted:** Wed Apr 10, 2013 12:35 pm

definitely would add some type of tensioner tool.

The cam locking tool, I only think you need if you are taking the cams off, although why wouldn't adequate marking be sufficient?
You only take the cams off if you are going to get at the water pump. I did not do that this time. In another 70K miles I'll be doing it.

striperman36 · **Posted:** Wed Apr 10, 2013 12:44 pm

definitely would add some type of tensioner tool.

The cam locking tool, I only think you need if you are taking the cams off, although why wouldn't adequate marking be sufficient?
You only take the cams off if you are going to get at the water pump. I did not do that this time. In another 70K miles I'll be doing it.

CobraDreaming · **Joined:** Tue Aug 23, 2011 9:24 pm **Posts:** 20

Yes. I wasn't going to do the water pump. Gamble I know.

I know about the tools from the UK but have a week off from work starting the 22nd and probably don't have time to get them

striperman36 · **Posted:** Wed Apr 10, 2013 7:08 pm

https://millerspecialtools.spx.com

bought my 3 here

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Wed Apr 10, 2013 8:51 pm

CobraDreaming wrote:

Wow. My search skills suck :lol:

use Google advanced - just choose site: www.lostjeeps.com/forum

papaindigo · **Posted:** Thu Apr 11, 2013 11:57 am

Oops I forgot the tensioner tightening tool - Miller tool is adequate but pins tend to slip. See GDE timing post for how to use a couple of long shaft allen wrenches instead.

striperman36 · **Posted:** Thu Apr 11, 2013 1:44 pm

papaindigo wrote:

Oops I forgot the tensioner tightening tool - Miller tool is adequate but pins tend to slip. See GDE timing post for how to use a couple of long shaft allen wrenches instead.

I really liked the Miller tool for tensioning. Didn't try the allen wrench deal, although I had them on hand.

geordi · **Posted:** Thu Apr 11, 2013 3:30 pm

I don't like the miller tool for tensioner, I was thinking of buying the replacement from Vm Specialist, but asking them first if it had longer pins. The vm keeps slipping out on me.

Crank pin is (IMHO) completely pointless. Use the front of the crankshaft as a guide: if the bolt holes are vertical/ horizontal AND BOTH cam pins are in... It is correct. If the crank must be a little past (in a clockwise direction) vertical... Then you have a worn belt. Trust the cam pins, and turn the crank backwards the half-a-tooth that it needs to be vertical and properly match the new belt.

It will be helpful during installation to have the cam gears held solid (in some way) and use drill bits or Allen keys to hold between the belt and the housing at the cams, and work your way clockwise around the engine to install the belt. When you get to the crank, turn counter-clockwise from vertical about half-a-tooth to seat the belt, then pull it clockwise to snug it up and return the crank to vertical. The belt is now properly positioned up to that point.

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camshaft locking pins

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