After completing the TB, water pump, thermostat, etc., service, I hooked up a garden hose to the header tank and ran water until what was coming out of the radiator drain with the motor running and the heater turned on was completely clear.

However, when I went to drain the radiator, not that much seemed to drain out.

I tried pressurizing the header tank with compressed air, but not much more water came out the radiator drain.

Can anyone guess if there is room for two gallons of HOAT to fit in at this point?

Thanks as always,

DOC

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2005 KJ CRD Ltd Detroit TrueTrac Bilsteins G2 GDE "HOT" ECU GDE TCM "Tow Tune" "euro" TC SEGR Weeks Elbow New HG at 130K ARPs Clean CAT aFe Filter Magnaflow Exhaust EHM Cumminos In-Tank Lift Pump Hayden Fan Clutch Nylon Fan VH Enabled with GDE lower shutoff point Recalibrated Temp Gauge Tekonsha Prodigy Sears P-1 ZDDP

You might want to check out viewtopic.php?f=5&t=56486&hilit=citric

For what it's worth the manuals (Owner and FSM) are inconsistent on the cooling system capacity. I suspect they botched the Metric/US measurement conversion and that the capacity in liters (12.5L) is correct which translates to 13.2 qts so if you refill with 6-6.5qts of undiluted HOAT and then top up with water that should get you close to a 50/50 antifreeze/water mix.

To maximize the amount of coolant drained out of the system (you cannot get it all with the lower radiator hose below the radiator drain plug) park with the front end down if possible; remove coolant tank cap (effectively the same as the radiator cap); open lower radiator drain plug; when coolant has been pulled out of the coolant tank open the valve on the top passenger side of the radiator (this breaks the vacuum at the top of the system and makes the radiator drain much faster). To refill close lower radiator drain valve; add the desired amount of undiluted HOAT to the coolant tank; top off with demineralized water until fluid starts to come out of that valve on the top of the radiator; "burp" the upper radiator hose and add a bit more water if need be and then close that valve; complete the water fill to about 1" above the midline of the coolant tank; replace coolant tank top. To purge remaining air in the system will take 2-3 complete drive to operating temperature and cool down cycles and may require adding a bit of water to reach proper coolant tank level (the bit of overfill I mentioned may be just enough to avoid having to add water, at least it was for me).

FYI there is no visible "valve" on the lines to/from the heater core and the FSM says water circulates thru the heater core at all times with cabin temp being controlled by blend doors. Hence there is no real need to have the heater on while doing a coolant change. Doing so won't help or hurt.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

THANKS Pap!

DOC

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2005 KJ CRD Ltd Detroit TrueTrac Bilsteins G2 GDE "HOT" ECU GDE TCM "Tow Tune" "euro" TC SEGR Weeks Elbow New HG at 130K ARPs Clean CAT aFe Filter Magnaflow Exhaust EHM Cumminos In-Tank Lift Pump Hayden Fan Clutch Nylon Fan VH Enabled with GDE lower shutoff point Recalibrated Temp Gauge Tekonsha Prodigy Sears P-1 ZDDP