Best Mods for my CRD thats not a tuner

Jwlochal · **Joined:** Fri Jan 25, 2013 9:42 pm **Posts:** 11

I know the first answer will be a tuner, but what other things have you done to your CRD that you really enjoy? I have had it a month now so its time to start customizing it!

DOC4444 · **Posted:** Thu Apr 11, 2013 8:04 pm

Only thing you should be concerned about is saving your motor, if possible, at this time. Get Torque Pro and ELM327. Do MAF test. How many miles?

DOC

Greasey Bob · **Joined:** Tue Dec 14, 2010 3:34 am **Posts:** 228

I converted mine to run on Waste Vegetable Oil about 75k miles ago. ORM and EHM are invaluable.

DOC4444 · **Posted:** Fri Apr 12, 2013 8:00 am

ORM is not nearly as effective as once thought.

DOC

kjjet · **Posted:** Fri Apr 12, 2013 8:39 am

The best thing you can do for your CRD is to stop the EGR. It causes all kinds of problems including eating at the internal engine parts, like Rockers. If it was me with my first CRD and limited funds, i would install a SEGR. It stops the EGR. With no EGR the jeep will run better and get better MPG due to no more exhaust being induced into the intake. Mixing EGR and CCV oil creates a ball of slug in the intake. CCV without the EGR is not so bad, But if you want to stop oil from entering the intake install a PROVENT. Check out the Knob guide and inspect everything ASAP. As you don't know how good the previous owner maintained things. These jeeps require lots of time looking cleaning things like MAF, MAP sensors, air filters and fuel filters.

Start reading.

striperman36 · **Posted:** Fri Apr 12, 2013 9:13 am

kjjet · **Posted:** Fri Apr 12, 2013 6:00 pm

striperman36 wrote:

EHM

Only a EHM done correctly. Lots of people have done more damage due to incorrect install.

racertracer · **Posted:** Fri Apr 12, 2013 8:56 pm

Unplug the MAF sensor..... the single best thing you can do to the CRD .... besides a tune.

kjjet · **Posted:** Fri Apr 12, 2013 10:21 pm

racertracer wrote:

Unplug the MAF sensor..... the single best thing you can do to the CRD .... besides a tune.

The only problem is you get a Check Engine Light.

For me, i could not do this due to i have 2 teen drivers and a wife that drive the jeep. I did not want to take the chance a true CEL would come on and never know it.

That's why i would get a SEGR. For starts. no light. no EGR. No more problems. Less cost than a tune. Get a tune later.

Jwlochal · **Joined:** Fri Jan 25, 2013 9:42 pm **Posts:** 11

So where do I get the segr?

msilbernagel · **Posted:** Sun Apr 14, 2013 12:12 am

I'd start here: viewtopic.php?f=5&t=65616&hilit=SEGR

Mark

luckynumber5 · **Joined:** Fri Feb 18, 2011 1:29 pm **Posts:** 15

Better tires, I have a set of BFG all terrains and that was an amazing change. Change to 10w40 oil instead of the 0w crap Chrysler called for. Save up for a tune and then enjoy the vehicle!

DOC4444 · **Posted:** Sun Apr 14, 2013 9:52 am

SEGR is not cost effective unless you are a master of electronics and can build and install it yourself. ALSO, you lose turbo overspeed protection which can seriously reduce your turbo life. GDE tune is the only cost effective move. I got SEGR before GDE existed. Check my sig. It is disabled.

However, your rockers may be shot and your motor may be about to be junk. Do the MAF test, as I indicated earlier in this thread, BEFORE you waste money on a motor that is about to go. If the engine has been run for more than 75,000 miles with stock EGR function, the rockers are worn and it is only a matter of time before the timing belt slips and you have a BIG and expensive problem.

The seriousness of the rocker wear issue and how to easily (and inexpensively) check for it is something that has only become really clear in the last few months on this forum.

DOC

racertracer · **Posted:** Sun Apr 14, 2013 10:15 am

DOC4444 wrote:

SEGR is not cost effective unless you are a master of electronics and can build and install yourself. ALSO, you lose turbo overspeed protection which can seriously reduce your turbo life. GDE tune is the only cost effective move. I got SEGR before GDE existed. Check my sig. It is disabled.

However, your rockers may be shot and your motor may be about to be junk. Do the MAF test BEFORE you waste money on a motor that is about to go.

DOC

X2,on the turbo overspeed protection problem, it can trash engines faster than you can say goodbye and a splice job on the OEM harness is something to consider when putting the vehicle up for sale, buyers will have second thoughts about that mod.

We heard it all before from other members who've lived it.

Drewd · **Joined:** Mon Feb 06, 2006 12:24 pm **Posts:** 902

Never running 0w-40 oil

Lift pump (Kennedy or in tank)

Provent Crank Case Ventilation Filter

Upgraded torque converter

GDE Tune (any version, get one asap!)

Racor Fuel Filter Head (awesome!)

Packyoc · **Joined:** Sun Nov 24, 2013 11:46 pm **Posts:** 2

Hey was just curious what's wrong with 0w40 oil?

mass-hole · **Posted:** Wed Mar 18, 2015 2:41 pm

Packyoc wrote:

Hey was just curious what's wrong with 0w40 oil?

Its typically not a diesel specific oil so it may not do as good of a job with soot and fuel contamination.

OP, if you do the EHM I would suggest making some small slits at the high point of the hose with a utility knife so that if you do end up with a frozen line there is a way to relieve the pressure. I would also suggest that the line be installed in such a fashion that there are no low points between the beginning and end of the line. In other words, it should always be heading towards the ground so there is no where for moisture to pool

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Wed Mar 18, 2015 5:46 pm

As discussed in many previous posts in detail on this forum, do not do an EHM; install a ProVent instead, a much better for your motor option... :SOMBRERO:

thermorex · **Posted:** Wed Mar 18, 2015 6:31 pm

Packyoc wrote:

Hey was just curious what's wrong with 0w40 oil?

I've been using Mobil 1 0w40 for years and I like it. There is nothing wrong with the oil per se, it has diesel api certification but it is not a "diesel dedicated oil". In other words, if you don't tow regularly and drive the jeep normally and not like on the race track, Mobil 1 0w40 is perfect. Especially if you have a gde tune. I posted few days ago some oil pics on a napkin from my jeep after 4k miles, there is very light soot and the oil is not black with gde tune. A dedicated diesel oil is recommended for use in case you tow regularly, drive aggressive or just because. The reason I use the 0w40 is that is the thinnest oil at cold compared to any diesel oil that can be easily purchased in us from a store (amsoil 5w30 diesel oil is not included since you can't buy it from a store and you need to contact a dealer). All diesel oils easily found here are 5+w40 and per the data sheet, are more viscous at cold than the 0w40. What oil is best is and will be a never ending debate, I'd advise to use the oil you want after reading the data sheet of all oils you consider and not go based on forum drama. Just be sure it is diesel acea or api certified.

To the OP, Regarding ehm, I'd either use provent (make sure it's properly installed with a release valve in case you vent the drain under the jeep or you connect it above the oil level in the oil pan), either leave it as it is with no changes. Also, oil level is very important, as the dipstick is not accurate, too much oil and it will get blown away through ccv. Make a mark on the dipstick after replacing the oil and filter and adding exactly 6litter of oil, that is the max the oil should be. Considering the above, you won't have too much oil going through ccv.

TURBO-DIESEL-FREAK · **Joined:** Sat Apr 17, 2010 3:29 pm **Posts:** 1167

Jwlochal:

One of the fundamental flaws of the CRD, other than the gawd-awful pollution control system, is the simple fact that the O.E. engine thermostat assembly allows the V.M. Motori R428 engine that powers the CRD to run at too low an operating temperature. This makes all of the engine problems the CRD has even worse.

The O.E. thermostat is a proprietary part, meaning it was designed as an assembly that you had to purchase at a Chrysler dealer or a European diesel engine parts importer. This is because until recently, no aftermarket parts manufacturer would copy the design because it is too expensive to do so for the relatively few R428 engines out there. This means the O.E. thermostat is...

1) ...very expensive to purchase and install, taking way more time than a normal thermostat valve to replace. If done through a dealer, you are looking at a $400.00 repair bill each time they are replaced.

2) ... a poor quality part. They fail on a regular basis - about every 60,000 kms or so; this is a failure rate higher than average for an engine thermostat valve.

3) ... designed to open up at 176 degrees Fahrenheit. This is too low a temperature for any modern internal combustion engine, and way too low for a turbo-diesel engine. Today's engines are designed run hotter because it is desirable to do so, (better power, fuel efficiency, and to allow pollution control systems to work properly), and because modern engine oils are formulated to easily withstand hotter running temperatures. Running a cool engine, especially in winter, gums up pollution control systems and engine intakes because the engine cannot properly burn the pollutants off. As a result, you lose power, fuel economy, and reliability.

The cool running R428 engine problem is the next biggest issue, after the pollution control system itself, which Liberty CRD owners have to face. No other problems this vehicle has come even close to these two issues.

Fortunately, I have a re-designed engine thermostat with a removable cap that takes care of ALL of the problems the O.E. thermostat causes. The Hot Diesel Solutions Model 001 engine thermostat assembly gets your engine up to proper operating temperature, and is cheap and easy to service because it has a removable cap that allows the owner to simply swap out thermostat valves.

The Model 001 uses thermostat valves from the Chrysler Hemi V-8 line of gasoline engines... they are common, easy-to-find, inexpensive, and will be produced for years to come. There are three different temperatures available, all with hotter opening temps than the O.E. unit.

Check out what my other customers have had to say about the Model 001...

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=75791&start=220

The above link starts you on page 12, as this is the page where customers start to post their reactions/impressions on the Model 001 after receiving them in the mail. Feel free to read the whole thread, and you will discover why the Model 001 was designed the way it is, and why it is a great product to install on your R428 if you want to maintain your CRD for the long term. The link below is to a thread I started before the thread above, and gives to some more background information on how this project got going...

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=74131

I hope to see a reply from you soon, as I know you can really use this upgrade part if you are still a CRD owner.

Best regards,

Best Mods for my CRD thats not a tuner

Who is online