Hello

I have developed an issue with my 2003 KJ 2.8CRD cutting out. It doesn't happen on every single journey, but at least once a day - and when it does happen, it happens at pretty much the same point - after about 30 minutes of driving.

The engine just dies; I lose power and have to pull over to the side of the road. Interestingly, I get absolutely no warning light coming on (no CEL) only the oil light coming on as the engine slows and the oil pressure drops. Then I simply have to turn the ignition off...then back on..start it up and I'm away.

I've had it into the dealer and they couldn't find any codes, but they suspected a Crank Position Sensor, so I had this changed (made sure it was a genuine Mopar). Thought this had solved it, but after 2-weeks the problem came back.

Took it to a local auto repair and managed to borrow a reader and the last time it happened got the following:-

5E90 - Active Power Up at Speed
P0076 - Intake Valve Control Solenoid Circuit Low Bank 1

No idea what either of these mean...and can't even find any reference to the 5E90 code when I Google it??

Can anyone advise?

It mainly seems to happen when I'm pulling away from the side of the road or out of a junction or hard accelerating to overtake another vehicle - i.e. When I put a bit of stress onto the gearbox - so I'm thinking it’s related to the auto box shift up / down???...but really, I'm at a loss as to what may be the cause, so would welcome any suggestions??

Those codes don't match up with the list I'm used to using: viewtopic.php?f=98&t=40073

Is it really 2003? If so, really 2.8L or perhaps 2.5?

At any rate, the general range of the code seems to indicate fuel and air metering: http://www.scribd.com/doc/21797701/All-Trouble-Codes

So - MAP, MAF, FCV.. maybe even EGR as it interacts with the others.

Mark

_________________
--
2005 Liberty CRD
2004.5 Cummins 5.9L TD, F1s, NV5600 6-speed in a '93 GMC Suburban

Hi Mark,

Many thanks for the reply. The registration document definately shows 2003 and 2.8L - to clarify - I'm based in the UK and I've got a feeling that the 2.8 CRD was introduced over here a couple of years before the US?

I picked up the same info - 'fuel and air metering', but I'm a complete novice with car mechanics, so it didn't make much sense to me.

The P0076 code refers to "Intake Valve Control Solenoid Circuit Low Bank 1" - but I'm guessing that this is it a generic fault which could apply to any one of a number of components within the fuel / air system rather than being a for a specific componment??

Thanks again for your advice.

Joel

That P0076 code I do not think is valid for your CRD.

Most of these problems are air-in-fuel related....make sure your fuel filter is good and you have primed all the air out of the fuel head.
Camshaft sensor could also be a problem.

How did you get those codes?...you can get the codes using the "key" trick on your 2003 KJ.
Turn the ignition key ON/OFF rapidly 4 times without starting the engine....leave the ignition ON after the third On action.
The odometer will display the codes...oldest first and newest one last.....it takes a few attempts to get this to work.
Be aware that this method sometimes transposes the last two digits so a P0076 code may display as P0067.

Have you read the NOOB guide?...most of what is there is valid for our Export models except that our models have a fixed-vane turbo and different EGR action and have an earlier type of Racor filter head than the type of Racors our USA friends like to install.

Download the manuals for your Jeep here...first down load the 2.5_2.8 Export Diesel Supplement......covers our 2.5/2.8 Export CRDS as far as the engine is concerned. Then you can download the 2003 KJ Service manual...covers everything else such as bodywork, transmission etc. and the circuit diagrams.

http://www.colorado4wheel.com/manuals/Jeep/KJ

_________________
2002 Export CRD 2.5 Sport

Hi Bill

The fault codes came from the reader that the repair garage had. I had tried the "ON/OFF Key Trick", but that didn't work - I then tried another trick that I read about, which is to press the odometer reset button...turn the ignition on...and then release the odometer button. The instrument panel then goes through a set of diagnostics...which it did.....but again no code other than "1.4", which I don't think is any kind of code?....before then defaulting back to the mileage reading.

The garage have already replaced the camshaft sensor, but to no avail.

I'll get it back into the garage and get then to check out the fuel filter as their 'gut feeling' was also that it is fuel related.

Many thanks indeed for the link to the manuals....they will be absolutely invaluable

Thanks for all the advice...

Earlier you said they replaced the crankshaft sensor, not the camshaft sensor. Do you know which one it is for sure?

_________________
05CRD: GDE Hot ECU & TCM tunes, Provent, Cat filter, Facet lift pump, TransGo kit, Florida TC, Samcos, stainless brake lines, HDS thermostat, Renegade light bar,
RL super sliders, Bilstein adjustables, Al's Gen 4.5 Arms, 235/85-16 Duratracs, DTT rear, Elocker front, EVIC+TPMS, Turbo timer, McNally pillar gauges, Weeks Stage II kit.

My apologies - I should have read Billwill's post more carefully.

It was definately the Crankshaft Sensor that was replaced. I'll get them to look at the Camshaft Sensor.

Thanks for picking that one up!

The trick to push in the odometer button while turning ignition on is not to get codes but to excercise the gauges and lamps to see that they work....the 1.4 reading you got is the software level of the cluster I think.

_________________
2002 Export CRD 2.5 Sport

Well I only ask because I have personally seen the crankshaft sensor cause the engine to die while running. I don't know if the camshaft sensor would do the same thing.

_________________
05CRD: GDE Hot ECU & TCM tunes, Provent, Cat filter, Facet lift pump, TransGo kit, Florida TC, Samcos, stainless brake lines, HDS thermostat, Renegade light bar,
RL super sliders, Bilstein adjustables, Al's Gen 4.5 Arms, 235/85-16 Duratracs, DTT rear, Elocker front, EVIC+TPMS, Turbo timer, McNally pillar gauges, Weeks Stage II kit.

Well...the mystery deepens...or maybe gets a little clearer??

Had the Jeep back intio the repairer and asked them to change the Fuel Filter as a precaution. It hasn't cut out on a journey yet (as it was previously doing)...maybe luck??.

BUT...last night and this morning it was a real pig to start. It did fire up first time, but then cut out almost immediately.....then had about 10 mins of it cranking over but not firing up, before finally spluttering to life.but then cutting out.....a few more goes with starting and cutting out before finally getting it to 'stick'.

Took it on a 40 min drive and by the time I stopped it seems to be running fine and I could turn the ignition off and restart without an issue.

Interestingly...I tried the 'key trick' (Thanks Billwill )and managed to get a P1130 Code, which I understand is a 'Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor'?

So what is now unclear, is whther this latest issue is related to the original 'cutting out' propblem...or perhaps created a new issue from the fuel filter replacement??

I would keep an eye on the fuel filter head....may need some priming for a while to get all the air out....make sure the fuel head is firmly tightened.

The P1130 code could be very old....the key trick does not clear the codes...I believe that air-in-fuel problems do not throw a code. If you get another code then the old P1130 code gets shifted back in the line....if you get lots of P1130 codes it will still only show up once.

_________________
2002 Export CRD 2.5 Sport

Spot on Billwill - finally got a chance to get under the bonnet at the weekend and the repair shop had clearly not screwed the primer pump handle back into the filter head properly, so I pumped it a few times...made sure it was then screwed back in tight....purged out the air....and it now starts like a dream!

So that has solved the 'non-starting' problem.....just need to see how we go with the 'cutting out' problem...which hasn't reoccurred as yet.

Also took the oppotrtunity to clean the MAP whilst I was under the bonnet.....and, as expected, it was covered in black gunk.

Hi I have the same model and year as you I had the same fault too! Took 3 months to find it but it was the fuel filter housing, I fitted a new 2nd hand housing from charlton auto parts (£125) not had the problem since!

It's increasingly looking like a fuel related problem, so hopefully replacing the filter may have solved it - but it is useful to know that I could look at the housing as the next step, should the problem occur again - thanks!

hi BucksJeep, just wondering how you got on with your Jeep? I have the same car (in UK) and same problem, but not at all mechanical so will need to get my Jeep to a garage to get looked at. Thanks

Hi AandK,

As was suspected by many people, it was indeed the fuel filter / head.

To recap - having had the fuel filter replaced, the problem re-ocurred a couple of days later, so I assumed that the fuel filter wasn't the problem - however, when I popped the bonnet to double-check their work, it turns out that the garage hadn't done up the primer pump knob properly when they primed the new filter.

Half a dozen pumps and then solid tightening of the knob and the problem was completely cured - starting first time and no more cutting out.

However, having run like a dream for about 8-months, the problem did then re-occur back in December - but armed with the 'knowledge', I went straight to the primer knob, which had worked it way loose again (guess it wasn't as tight as I thought) - but a quick prime and tighten cured it again.

Just need to get in a routine of checking the primer pump knob every six-months or so.

My experience and advice to you - Fuel Filter...Fuel Filter...Fuel Filter...

Hope that helps - let me know how you get on?

Thanks! Only just found which forum I posted this on, have been looking for a while..

Still having this problem intermittently. Took Jeep to a local garage and they couldn't find anything, took it for a test drive and it didn't happen.. Although I did mention how intermittent the fault was, so no surprise there! After just living with it for the last couple of months, I have done some analysis of when it happens and the conditions, and it seems to happen most when the tank is full/nearly full, and also when I am asking for a bit of extra power, e.g. accelerating up hill. Although not every time of course.

So it does sound like it could be the fuel filter, she's just passed the 90k mark miles wise. I have only had her since Feb 13, but have probably put well over 20k on the clock since then. No idea when the fuel filter was last changed, if ever!

Your comments re the knob needed tightening every now and then worry me a bit.. I am not techy at all when it comes to cars (am quite practical for a girl as have horses, can change a tyre, check oil etc etc) but I wouldn't even know where to find the primer pump knob!

Am off to see if I can find a Jeep expert local to me, if not I'll see if this garage can change the filter for me.

Hi Guys,
Do any of you know if the primer knob should have a o-ring?
I'm starting to think mine is pulling air from the primer knob not sealing properly.