Hello to All,

I have a problem with the little truck.

I replaced the torque converter at about 27,000 miles because cold morning starts I would put the Jeep in drive and it would slam into gear so hard it would stall the engine. That did not fix the problem so they replaced the valve body and transmission filters. This did however solve the problem.

Well, now I have just over 90,000 miles on the jeep and the cold morning start problem came back. This unfortunately took the torque converter out again. Since the timing belt needed to be replaced at 100,000 miles I thought I would just have the shop replace both of them. I ordered a Euro Torque Converter and a Timing Belt Kit at IDParts.com. I also had them put a FLCV (Flman check valve mod).

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/APOLLO-Spring-Check-Valve-1CKT5?Pid=search

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/PARKER-Male-Connector-1PZW4?Pid=search


They installed all the parts and started the jeep and shut the Jeep off. When they tried to restart the Jeep it would not start and had a CEL for cam sensor.

I then sent the shop a few links and files:

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=63938

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=59003&view=previous

http://jeepliberty.danielcadams.com/how ... 8l-diesel/

Part 1 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5o_FJpBEKjk

Part 2 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cjhhxMzzyh8

Part 3 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mbi3rRSE ... ature=fvwp

Part 4 http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=fv ... G1XEs&NR=1

Part 5 http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=fv ... WPLR4&NR=1


The shop did get the Jeep started after examining the documents and links I sent them. However, the Jeep now feels under powered at take off and lots of black smoke. I also have to turn over the Jeep a lot longer before it actually starts.

Does anyone have any thoughts on what could cause this? Any help would be great!

Thanks,
JD

I'd have them double-check the timing.

I wonder if they managed to get air in the fuel system during the timing belt change? Air in fuel can cause the smoke.. try bleeding the air @ the fuel filter head and priming it well.

While they were in there, did they replace the rocker arms?

Mark

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2005 Liberty CRD
2004.5 Cummins 5.9L TD, F1s, NV5600 6-speed in a '93 GMC Suburban

No they did not replace the rocker arms.

Just FYI the Jeep ran great before the timeing belt and had plenty of power. I did check to see if there was air in the fuel system and bleed the fuel filter head and it did not change the smoke or power.

If the shop did the TB per that U-tube then they would be doing it wrong. It is not per the manual and can cause issues if your not careful. Sorry but this is not how VM wants the timing belt installed and engine timed.

Installation should start at the crank and installed CCW, Cam gears loose, without a cam holding tool installed untill the belt is on. That's per the manual. No moving the crank. Never.

I hope the engine is not off a tooth? Have them remove the intake hose from the intake elbo. Start the engine do a suck- blow check. If the engine is blowing and or popping from the intake. Yes= broken rockers. No=air in fuel is likely.

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05 Liberty CRD Sport with Leather 115k
GDE ECO, No EGR, no FCV, (system gone)
Oil Drain plug P/N 090-039
K&N Air Filter, 2nd gen Fuel filter head
NEW Rockers & lifters
Mobil 1 0w-40
Stant 13519 195 deg inline Thermostat.
0 281 002 845 MAP
Etecno GX3123 7v Glow Plugs
Advance Gold 800CCA Battery
Traded it for a Quality VW TDI

Thank Kjjet and msilbernagel,

I removed the intake hose from the intake elbow and the engine is not blowing or popping, so that’s a good sign. I changed the fuel filter and made sure all the air was bleed out of the fuel head. Kjjet, do you know where I can get a VM manual for the timing belt for the Jeep or know if I can down load it somewhere?

If the timing was off, could it cause the black smoke low take off power from start and having to crank it over for 10 + seconds to start? If so what part of the time could be off (fuel pump, cam, crank)? If the fuel pump was out of time, how would that effect the way the jeep ran? Sorry for all the question I am just trying to understand how it all works.

Thank Again,

JD

First things first, is your CEL on? Any codes, P0700 perhaps?

If there's no popping sucking blowing at the intake then your rockers are most likely (note that I didn't say absolutely) fine.

If a cam was even 1 tooth off it would have destroyed them by now as I'm assuming you've started it and driven it around.

I would imagine, from pictures I've seen and from what I experienced myself that the vast majority of your issue is due to your EGR valve. I would imagine your MAF sensor looks like a tar bunny and your intake doesn't look any better and that is probably causing a vast majority of the issues you are experiencing.

Timing being off is immediately noticeable and you would know by now if they didn't get it right at the shop.

I know the YouTube video allowed me to get mine done in my garage and that's all I'm going to say about it, it worked fine.

You can download a copy of the service manual and the parts fiche at Sir Sam's website, I believe it's linked in the Noob Guide post at the top of the forum.

Your fuel pump isn't timed, per se, but it's optimal that it is set up correctly (3 o'clock IIRC) if it's not, you will lose ~1-3% efficiency.

Your crank being out would be bad, but if they followed the directions it shouldn't be. You can check your timing without disassembling everything very easily with the cam pins and the flex plate pin if you are seriously that concerned about the crank being off.

If you have a leaking fuel head, changing out the filter isn't going to change that, it's the FUEL HEAD, not the filter that's leaking air.

Upgrade to a 2nd gen fuel head (You will know it's 2nd gen because it will come with wires to change the connector on the right side of the fuel head as you face it.)

Again, these are just my but I've dealt with a lot of these issues as well.

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Silver 2006 KJ 2.8L CRD Limited:
GDE ECO Tune / Fumoto Valve / E-Tecno GX3123 7v Glow Plugs / 2nd Gen Fuel Head / Mishimoto RED Hoses / Rockers/Lifters @ 114k / Hayden FC + 11 Blade Nylon / Sears P1 Battery / Transgo 45RFE-HD2 Reprogramming Kit / Timken Front Bearings

Did you check the turbo? It would be a strange coincidence, but possible. Pull the hose off that runs from the turbo to the intercooler and look at the fins or feel them with your finger. Here is a picture of mine after it failed:


Here is a picture of a rebuilt turbo, the bad turbo and a used turbo:

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My collection of CRD's:
2005 Deep Beryl Green Pearlcoat
2006 Light Khaki Metallic Clearcoat
2006 Inferno Red Crystal Pearlcoat
2006 Midnight Blue Pearlcoat
2006 Gold Limited
2015 Black Ecodiesel
2015 Black Ecodiesel 2

I just put a new turbo on the jeep about a year ago because the steelership told me it was bad. My jeep was smoking really bad and oil was coming out the exhaust. They replaced the turbo and the jeep was still doing the same thing. Turned out I just had a pluged ccv valve hose ($3,000 fix that I did not even need). I will still check and see if its the turbo.

I noticed that the jeep has plenty of power when it gets above 2,200-2400 rpm. Don’t know if this information helps anyone.

That's about when youre turbo kicks in. You should have extra power then.

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Silver 2006 KJ 2.8L CRD Limited:
GDE ECO Tune / Fumoto Valve / E-Tecno GX3123 7v Glow Plugs / 2nd Gen Fuel Head / Mishimoto RED Hoses / Rockers/Lifters @ 114k / Hayden FC + 11 Blade Nylon / Sears P1 Battery / Transgo 45RFE-HD2 Reprogramming Kit / Timken Front Bearings