Engine Oil Brand

MikeD1Be · **Joined:** Fri Feb 10, 2012 12:30 am **Posts:** 8

I know a lot of people suggest using the Mobil 1 5w-40 synthetic but I have a VW TDI as well and frequent their forums quite a bit. Most there swear by this Schaeffer brand oil:

http://www.schaefferoil.com/supreme-9000-engine-oil.html

Anyone have any experience with this in the Liberty CRDs?

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Wed Feb 22, 2012 9:25 pm

Cowpie mentioned it - he's a trucker - uses it on his Cummins (15L) 18 wheeler and CRD....

Granahan378 · **Posted:** Thu Feb 23, 2012 1:51 am

I use valvoline premium blue extreme fully synthetic and have had great luck with it 5w40 and its around $33 a gallon. I still dont dare drive more than 5k miles between changes, these little motors are picky.

LMWatBullRun · **Posted:** Thu Feb 23, 2012 8:14 am

I've had good results with Mobil Products on gasser engines, and had used Shell Rotella 15W-40 for my HD diesel equipment with good results, but the problem with differentiating between good performance and superb performance in synthetic engine lubricating oils is that the differences are only seen at the end of the engine's service life, and can be measured only if you have identical engines running the differing lubricants under the same conditions.

I know that after 180,000 miles, the last 100,000 running only Mobil-1 synthetic, there was only about 0.003" max wear on the cylinders of our Honda Civic. (Blown HG change.) I'd call that very good performance. But that does not necessarily translate to the Liberty CRD VM engine. Right now I have Mobil 1 5W-40 Turbodiesel oil in the Jeep, but I am thinking about using the Rotella sythetic, which is less expensive and highly regarded, too. Right now my practice is to use specified lubricants from manufacturers with lots of experience, and change the oil more frequently than required. Can I justify that with test data? No, but this approach has served me well for over 35 years. I routinely run my vehicles well over 200,000 miles and they are all fully operational at that time; the engines all have good compression.

The Civic I now have about 230,000 miles on and it still runs very well, although the crank seals are going. I'm debating whether to rebuild the motor or sell it; apart from the HG, a distributor failure and a computer failure it has been reliable, it is fun to drive, and it gets 36-38 mpg.

But back to lube oil. I would love to see engine wear data showing the relative wear in different engines, especially a modern EGR equipped high rev turbodiesel, of the various (expensive!) lubricants being proposed. I'd think somebody must have done such tests, but I haven't seen the results posted anywhere. Does anybody have any actual data to share?

MikeD1Be · **Joined:** Fri Feb 10, 2012 12:30 am **Posts:** 8

Granahan378, 5000 seems a bit short seeing as though the manual recommends 6,250 miles under harsh conditions (lots of start/stop driving, cold temperatures, towing, etc.)

This is a pretty good thread showing some of the guys on here getting their used oil analyzed, looks like with the right oil they were able to go much longer between changes.

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=4582

Guess it depends on how you use the Jeep too.

Granahan378 · **Posted:** Thu Feb 23, 2012 2:18 pm

MikeD1BE, you make some good points, the only thing done to this jeep is the EHM so the EGR is still on and id rather not have all of that soot being trapped in the oil. Thats the only reason i change it at 5k its just me being on the safe side. Thanks for the link.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Thu Feb 23, 2012 3:16 pm

Oil is cheap, engines are expensive, the CRD has tiny oil passages that love clean oil and hate dirty oil.

LMWatBullRun · **Posted:** Thu Feb 23, 2012 6:57 pm

papaindigo wrote:

Oil is cheap, engines are expensive, the CRD has tiny oil passages that love clean oil and hate dirty oil.

Papa, you said a mouthful. The MSRP for a new short block is about what I paid for the entire vehicle. If I am able to get a parts vehicle one of the things I am going to think about is 'building' a 2.8 for performance, including ARP studs, higher boost, and opening up the oil galleries for more efficient lubrication among other things.

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Thu Feb 23, 2012 8:09 pm

LMWatBullRun wrote:

papaindigo wrote:

Oil is cheap, engines are expensive, the CRD has tiny oil passages that love clean oil and hate dirty oil.

Papa, you said a mouthful. The MSRP for a new short block is about what I paid for the entire vehicle. If I am able to get a parts vehicle one of the things I am going to think about is 'building' a 2.8 for performance, including ARP studs, higher boost, and opening up the oil galleries for more efficient lubrication among other things.

Parts CRD: http://greenville.craigslist.org/cto/2862558388.html
Price is too high for me. Buy it, you will learn a lot, a good teaching tool.

LMWatBullRun · **Posted:** Thu Feb 23, 2012 10:36 pm

Bit too far to drive. Pity, that was what I was looking for.

jrsavoie · **Posted:** Tue Jun 18, 2013 2:20 pm

I am planning to use Amsoil 5W40 EFM engine oil.

Does anybody install bypass filters on these?

I run either a FS2500 or Amsoil bypass filter on everything I have so far. z

Is there a good place for pressurized supply to feed a bypass filter that will not rob the engine of any lubrication?

Or even a place to mount a bypass filter?

Srytrucker · **Posted:** Fri Jun 21, 2013 1:02 pm

There is Amsoil dealer in this forum has the oil filter action setup with 200k + miles on it so go for it.lookfor amslube.thx

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