Couple questions 4wd switch/injector issue

Twigpig · **Posted:** Tue May 21, 2013 4:58 pm

First, owned it a week love it.
4wd only engages if I go into low then back to high, and no lights at all. 4wd sensor maybe?

Injector has blow by on no1, still under a 40/60 split warranty by the dealer. Should I just get washers and O-ring or let them and face their price?

Read the noobie deal also, great stuff!

papaindigo · **Posted:** Tue May 21, 2013 5:28 pm

On 4 wheel check the plastic transfer case bushing. There is a PN and how to post of mine on the CRD tech page. If ok sensor is likely and there is a how to post on that also. If you cannot locate PM me.

Injector - parts should be ca. $10 and labor no more than 1 hr at dealer so see what they say on cost and figure whether your time is worth it as it may not be much cash out of your pocket.

Twigpig · **Posted:** Tue May 21, 2013 7:12 pm

Figured cost was low on parts. Do the injectors thread in or just push in? I saw he retained and bolt, just curious.
Bought it around charleston so an hour drive, might be easier to DIY!
Thanks for the info!

Hexus · **Posted:** Tue May 21, 2013 9:58 pm

The injectors are held in by a bolt and bracket. The injectors themselves just push down by hand and the bolt/bracket or foot combination provide the down force to hold it in.

If you have blow by, it is simple to repair as I have just done it.

Order a crush washer and o-ring from a reputable dealer, or source your own parts. I think ID Parts has a set for ~$2 and $1 shipping.

Get a torque wrench, 17mm crow's foot socket, and 10mm socket with an extension.

Use the 17mm to remove the fuel line from the trouble injector. Remove the plastic clip from the fuel injector electrical connection/signal cable. Use the 10mm socket to remove the bolt from the foot/bracket. Remove the fuel return line clip and the fuel return line (Black hose and small clip, watch out, it JUMPS!) Gently work the injector until it slides out the top, you might use some lubricant, moly or PB'Laster, WD-40, whatever turns your cog, to make life simpler.

Make sure the copper crush washer came out with your fuel injector, UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES ARE YOU TO LEAVE 2 IN THERE!

If not, get it out of the recess.

Clean your injector simply with some non-chlorinated brake parts cleaner. Clean the recess bore of your injector in the intake, if you have had blow-by then it's going to be a bit gummed up, brake parts cleaner is fine here too. DO NOT BRUSH THE INJECTOR END, spraying it off will be sufficient.

20 Gauge bore brush works well on our injector recess, just saying.

Replace the copper crush washer on the bottom of the injector being careful not to bend it, a small deep-well socket works well for this purpose, something to spread out the force.

Replace the O-Ring on the injector, and re-install it reversing the above process step by step. Anti-Seize on the body of the injector here is fine, but under no circumstances do you want to get it on the injector nozzle, BE CAREFUL!

Torque the bolt to 24 ft/lbs.

Torque the fuel line to 32 ft/lbs. when reconnecting.

Done.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Wed May 22, 2013 8:47 am

To those good instructions I'd add a note that the "foot" thing that holds the injector in place presses on a steel button set in a recess in the aluminum head. Be sure that steel button stays in place, it should but just saying, as lack of the steel button means the "foot" presses on aluminum and will, per prior forum posts, work loose.

Twigpig · **Posted:** Wed May 22, 2013 10:00 am

Thanks guys, I've tinkered with injectors before on my first vehicle 84 ford 6.9, buts its been a while , it was a good teacher unfortunately,.........lol

Twigpig · **Posted:** Fri May 24, 2013 10:07 am

Just an update, got her done 1and4 were bad. They were so gunked up made me very nervous as to how much energy I had to use to get them out! 2/3 were good but, since I was there changed them, they just slid out. Thanks for the insight guys really appricieate the info!

Couple questions 4wd switch/injector issue

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