Black smoke and P1186

CRDsyeruncle · **Joined:** Fri May 10, 2013 10:03 pm **Posts:** 71

Ok, so I've been an owner for just under a year, and the engine light was on from the time I purchased. Initially it was a P0401, the EGR, and I finally replaced it 3 weeks ago, along with the glow plugs, for I was showing failure on 1 and 2. Since I had to get around the throttle body I figured I would do both at the same time.

Needless to say, I got the job done, with the only snafu being #2 plug snapping off and me having to use a straight tap to get it out. It was very satisfying when I reefed on it and it came free.

The neck past the throttle body was absolutely caked with what I can only describe as shoe polish, so I thoroughly cleaned it out, put it all together, made an appointment for a reflash for the 5v plugs and felt pretty good when she started.

The flash went off without a hitch and I was CEL free for the first time since I took ownership. The power was smooth, and I opened her up on the highway a few times, loving the torque.

So I figure it's time for a mod. The CCV hose intake above the turbo definitely bugged me, and I had purchased one of those BMW cyclonic separators. I figured a good place to affix it next to the power steering fluid rez, so I went in.

I pulled out the filter box, removed the boost hose, then went to remove the air hose, and it just came away without me loosening off the O clamp. doo doo. Well that stopped me. It was after hours and I wouldn't be able to call the stealer to order one til the next day. I looked at the hose. It had basically tore all round at the flare of the intake casting of the turbo. I got out a knife, cut all the loose debris away, carved enough room for the O clamp, and reattached it, making the best mate I could, tightened up the O clamp and put it back together.

This is when the black smoke started. I went for a cruise, and 5 minutes in, accelerating away from a light, I just smoked out a group of cars behind me. :furious:

My assumption was that I was sucking air around the seal, and the ECU was misreading the air to fuel mix. I eased off the throttle.

I ordered the part, which took a week (Canada), put it in, and it didn't clear up the problem!

So now I have these symptoms:

Smoking lightly during driving, black, heavier at acceleration which eases up with the turbo kicking in

Sluggish, won't downshift for pickup at speed

Rough at cruise speed (slightly less than 1900 rpm)

Fuel economy drop, from 10.8 km/100L to 12.1/100L

A P1186 code, which took me four passes to clear (gone at moment but without a doubt will be back)

Libby might sound a little clackier while at idle, but there is no problem starting. The jeep has dropped once into soft limp mode, unwilling to go over 3000 rpm when that 1186 CEL was on, but now will rev up. I can rev the crap out of her in park and no smoke.

Has anyone had a similar problem?

The state of the CRD is as follows:

Hasn't had its 100K service (have part of the parts list and will hopefully have time in August to tackle this, sitting at 135K)
Changed glows
Changed EGR
Only use synthetic 5/40
Transfer case went, replaced, trans shop thought it was blown shifter springs, was pristine inside, had them service it anyways since they yanked it, half labour costs.
Replaced MAP (was repeatedly throwing 0105. Solved problem)
Did Sam's Noob basics

I couldn't find a listing for the P1186. A rail sensor? Your input is appreciated.

CATCRD · **Posted:** Sun May 26, 2013 9:05 pm

Did you search this forum for exactly the term P1186? I seem to remember that being caused by the sensor on the SIDE of the air filter box. Maybe you bumped it during all your work in that area.

TJ2 · **Posted:** Sun May 26, 2013 10:19 pm

You revved "her" up??? Well, that's your problem. The females are all falling apart while the males are still running strong.

Seriously, while it's likely not related, new posters who come with problems generally haven't found it necessary to buy a GDE tune, while the vast majority of us who come here often found it to be an essential.

good luck

CRDsyeruncle · **Joined:** Fri May 10, 2013 10:03 pm **Posts:** 71

I did look up that code on the search and it came out negative for hits. I know the sensor you're talking about. I had the harness point zap strapped into place for the clip was broken. The P1186 is back, so I am going to see if it is dirty, and/or I might have broken one of the wires near the clip base. Then again the sensor might be pooched...

CRDsyeruncle · **Joined:** Fri May 10, 2013 10:03 pm **Posts:** 71

TJ2 wrote:

You revved "her" up???

A simple turn of phrase. As for the GDE tune, I have the Alienware code reader, which I find essential, and it is how I read and clear codes, but will priorize. The major servicing first, then the hot tune.

Hexus · **Posted:** Mon May 27, 2013 1:21 am

P1186 isn't one of our error codes?

You sure it's P1186?

That's a dodge code for fuel temperature sensor though...

CRDsyeruncle · **Joined:** Fri May 10, 2013 10:03 pm **Posts:** 71

Hexus wrote:

P1186 isn't one of our error codes?

You sure it's P1186?

I never said it wasn't a code that applied to the CRD ECU, just that there was no listing for it on the KJ DTC index that was posted on this site, and yes, the last time I checked, I could still read.

The code list is different for other engines, such as dodges, which claims that is a FTS failure, or EOT misread. I don't believe that shi t exists on the VM.

I examined that sensor connection, which was still zap strapped in place, pulled it off and cleaned it, reattached it. Possibly I torqued the wires? I got the code to clear and no more limp mode, but still smoking. Seems to be less, certainly not the smoke screen I was leaving behind me last week, but still a visible cloud at any throttling.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Mon May 27, 2013 9:27 am

P1186 - per GDE is a plausibility fault on the airbox pressure sensor (on side of air box with little Mercedes logo). it most likely came unplugged. The connector retention clip is weak on this sensor and may break.

Smoke and low power - remove and check turbo>intercooler>flow control valve hoses and inspect for cracks, tears, or if soggy with oil - replace if found. Check boost pressure solenoid see P1186 - viewtopic.php?f=5&t=70602&p=757348&hilit=boost+solenoid#p757348 Check turbo variable van movement "You can check the vane functionality at idle in park. Underneath the vacuum actuator on the turbo is rod extending downward connected to the vane mechanism. If you pull off the vacuum line at the turbo, the arm should drop about 1/2 inch and then raise back up after reconnecting the vacuum line. It is a bit difficult to see the rod, but this is the easiest method to check for proper VGT vane moevment" if insufficient movement you need to get up to operating temp and do some full throttle acceleration runs ideally up an incline (aka Italian tuneup) it not free check around for instructions on using oven cleaner to get rid of sticky soot on vanes.

Hope the 135k = kilometers in which case August for the TB is ok but if miles park now and do TB now.

CRDsyeruncle · **Joined:** Fri May 10, 2013 10:03 pm **Posts:** 71

Thanks Papa. I know I am living on borrowed time and that is 135k miles, 35k past due. It is my primary (only) vehicle.

I have the new belt, tensioners, but no water pump or thermostat. Are they a complete unit?

I will check the turbo and order the rest of the parts. I purchased a complete set of once used miller tools from a Chrysler dealer that went down, so I am set that way. I feel confident enough to do it myself, I just am so busy with work deadlines.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Mon May 27, 2013 3:02 pm

Delay is not your friend and a set of rockers/lifters if your belt fails is $350 or so at idParts plus lots more labor. At that mileage I'd do the water pump, remember to do it the simple way by just replacing the front 1/2 where all the moving parts are, which saves the apparently very difficult hassle of removing the WP bolts.

The tstat is a self contained unit and is NOT a required part of the TB job. If your temp gauge normally rides slightly left of vertical your tstat is fine so don't replace it. If it doesn't get that high it needs replacement but under absolutely no circumstances delay a TB job pending receipt of the tstat. Tstat replacement is a totally separate operation and you can run just fine with a bad, open early/run cold, tsat although there is a bit of a mpg penalty.

CRDsyeruncle · **Joined:** Fri May 10, 2013 10:03 pm **Posts:** 71

Ok, I have ordered the rest of the parts to do the 100k service. I also got the tstat, for my liberty has never warmed up completely on a regular basis. I have not has a chance to really check the vac lines, but they look clean. Are there obvious signs of rocker wear? While I don't feel that is an issue, could that be a cause of the smoking? I would like to believe that it is that sensor that is faulty. When I removed, cleaned and reattached it, my fuel economy immediately changed/dropped to 11.6L/100km, but has since cruised back up to 12.3. Has anyone experienced this sensor failure?

I am mentally preparing for the tb change, have watched the YouTube video. Is there a way to inspect the rockers without removing the manifold?

DOC4444 · **Posted:** Wed May 29, 2013 12:21 am

Search for "MAF test". Will give you an idea about rocker condition.

DOC

CRDsyeruncle · **Joined:** Fri May 10, 2013 10:03 pm **Posts:** 71

Ok, so I ordered the ELM327 diagnostic plug in. Kinda sh itty that that torque pro app is only for android. I got my first FedEx package and idparts sent me the wrong gasket, not the kit, so I'm waiting for a resend. I am hoping my rockers aren't the cuprit, but I am unwilling to do an Italian tuneup until the timing belt is replaced. I checked all my vac lines and I noticed that my vac solenoid is making a weird buzzing noise. P1186 is gone and hasn't showed back up, though I have been driving lightly. I also noticed that my brake pedal is now soft, where I have break capacity but I have to pump them somewhat. Even then when I put my foot down hard on the brakes the pedal gives to a point. I am not throwing any codes, so I am uncertain. Still a possible vac problem?

I have a question about rocker arm replacement. Do you have to remove all the timing components to get in to change the rockers?

Tony P. · **Posted:** Fri May 31, 2013 11:45 pm

CRDsyeruncle wrote:

Has anyone experienced this sensor failure?

I think we just experienced a different DTC code(s), however similar symptoms/failure.

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=74766

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sat Jun 01, 2013 8:56 am

Might be worth just replacing the boost pressure solenoid if it's making noise. I don't think it costs much (PN 4606226AC for like $35-45 may be one of those things best obtained from dealer as shipping will offset any online savings)

I cannot comment on your brakes but will note that in my experience all anti-lock brakes have what seem to me mushy brake pedals that just seem to "give" when pressed hard or long as opposed to non-anti-lock brake pedals that go down and should stop like a rock.

CRDsyeruncle · **Joined:** Fri May 10, 2013 10:03 pm **Posts:** 71

Ok, part ordered. Libby is still smoking even with the vacuum line bypass. I ordered a water pump from quadratech, but it seems like the order is lost in limbo. I did call them to assure that it was an OEM part, which the call rep assured me it was. Has anyone used quadratech and had problems with them?

CRDsyeruncle · **Joined:** Fri May 10, 2013 10:03 pm **Posts:** 71

So I replaced the boost pressure solenoid and no change. I can definitely hear that the turbo isn't whining as much as it should, and Libby's rough. I have the final part coming from ID which should be here Tuesday and I am going in on the Saturday bright and squirly.

I have a story to tell though. The reason I don't have the waterpump is because I went to quadratech first. The price was a third cheaper, and when I phoned they assured me it was an OEM. I guess I should have been skeptical, but I went ahead and purchased. It took two weeks for this shipment to reach me, and by the outside packaging and rough weight, everything looked good...until I opened it up. My surprise when I saw another, smaller box inside, rectangular. I popped it out, it had a "crown" sticker slapped on the side of it. Opening it up revealed some...thing. Definitely not a water pump, with two wheels on it, plastic, both of which were broken on the edges! There was gouges on the aluminum casting and what looked like hot glue dripped across it!

Needless to say, I called customer service at quadratech. I waited 11 minutes to talk to a rep, gave my order number, he confirmed a water pump order, to which I asked him what they had shipped me, cause it certainly wasn't a water pump for any vehicle.

He said he had to get hold of the third party manufacturer, and put me on hold for another 5 minutes. When he came back on the line, he gave me a story about a bad order of 900 parts, and that mine just happened to get shipped, instead of a "product unavailable" notice being emailed to me. I demanded a complete refund, to which he agreed. I asked him what they wanted me to do with their "part" and he said we don't want it back and basically hung up on me.

CRDsyeruncle · **Joined:** Fri May 10, 2013 10:03 pm **Posts:** 71

papaindigo wrote:

Check turbo variable van movement "You can check the vane functionality at idle in park. Underneath the vacuum actuator on the turbo is rod extending downward connected to the vane mechanism. If you pull off the vacuum line at the turbo, the arm should drop about 1/2 inch and then raise back up after reconnecting the vacuum line. It is a bit difficult to see the rod, but this is the easiest method to check for proper VGT vane moevment" if insufficient movement you need to get up to operating temp and do some full throttle acceleration runs ideally up an incline (aka Italian tuneup) it not free check around for instructions on using oven cleaner to get rid of sticky soot on vanes.

Ok I've obtained the MAF g/s read and initially I got 9.2. It looked low so went to check this site in another thread, then came back ant it was sitting at 17.7 g/s. I revved the engine a bit and after kicking up it dropped back down to 8.9 g/s. sticking turbo veins? I've removed intake hose and boost hose to check if there was excess impeller play (wobble) and while I can wiggle it the teensiest bit, it seems fine and spins easily. I've sucked on the vac line and I can see the lever move, but not much. How much is it supposed to lift? Does it only move half an inch total? My FedEx tracking says my water pump will be in on Monday. I don't understand enough of the functionality of the turbocharger. I wish there was a way to inspect my rockers prior to my 100k service (this Saturday). For a little while yesterday the smoke went away, then when I accelerated again it came back. I also noticed that Libby didn't want to gear down at highways speeds when quick throttled. I'm going to put it back together and look at the live data again.

CRDsyeruncle · **Joined:** Fri May 10, 2013 10:03 pm **Posts:** 71

I am still getting up and down readings on the MAF, low at idle, 8.9, high 19.2. I am at sea level.

DOC4444 · **Posted:** Mon Jun 10, 2013 4:53 am

135K with full EGR function=ROCKERS. The MAF test proves it. Order from ID Parts. If you do not do it now, you will have to do it soon when the belt slips. Also, people talk about changing rockers like it is just a pain in the booty. However, several motors have blown after valve/piston contact. Do it NOW or park it until you can.

DOC

Black smoke and P1186

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