Travel Trailer Towing

Gabe Watt · **Posted:** Thu May 30, 2013 2:43 pm

My wife and I are considering buying a used travel trailer to live in for a few months while we make our way from NorCal to Florida this fall.

We are looking at ones between 14-21ft. Preferably around 3500-4000lbs dry weight. I've done a bit of research, and it is clear that I should get a WDH, and a bigger than stock trans-cooler. Our trans has never had any problems, but I'm a little worried about the stock TC dying on us. The money for a new euro TC isn't really there, unless we don't get a trailer.

I don't have any tunes or real mods done to the engine. I had my timing belt and water pump replaced less than 12K miles ago, and the Jeep currently has 118K on it.

Thoughts?

papaindigo · **Posted:** Thu May 30, 2013 2:57 pm

I'll let other weigh, sorry couldn't resist, in on trailer types and weights other than to offer the obvious that a bit of front end streamlining on the trailer is a good thing. Comments on speeds and gear settings would probably be good too. About all I can offer on the latter is viewtopic.php?f=5&t=69117&p=739421#p739421 . I think, in hindsight, the "light" feeling was related to stoutdog running ca. 45psi in his tires not the load/trailer and we had little problem holding speed in 5th lockup with cruise on so long as you "anticipated" upcoming hills by adding some foot pressure to the go pedal to get speed up thereby avoiding the abrupt downshift and higher rpms that would occur if you just let cruise handle it.

As to tranny cooler that's well worth a bit of your time and not much money. See the following links for ideas:
1. http://liberty.eurekaboy.com/transcooler.htm
2. http://colorado4wheel.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=45
3. viewtopic.php?f=5&t=62013&p=686385&hilit=cooler#p686385
4. viewtopic.php?f=5&t=69453&p=742547#p742547
You can choose to do this as a supplement to the existing cooler (bottom of the AC condenser on the KJ CRD) or in place of. I have no opinion on which is best not having done the job myself, I only tow ca. 2,000 and that rarely.

ChooChooman74 · **Posted:** Thu May 30, 2013 3:41 pm

I tow a travel trailer. Total length just under 22 feet. Weight from the CAT scales is around 4500lbs.

#1 Never go by dry weight. No one camps with an empty trailer, no propane, or battery. Go by GVW.

#2 WDH and transmission cooler are a must.

#3 i would strongly suggest GDE tunes. I tow at 60mph and I notice a huge difference. You don't want to be pulling a hill close to redlined or you will overheat and your EGTs will be too high.

#4 Stock Goodyear STs are junk. Look for a quality tire. My Firestone Winterforce P245/70R16 feel totally better than stockers. I just installed 4 Hankook Dynapro ATm 245/70R16. I will let you know what I think about them.

View my blog http://campinglifewithmatt.blogspot.com

I am getting my camper ready to go so I will do my best to check this thread.

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

BlackLibertyCRD · **Posted:** Thu May 30, 2013 6:47 pm

If you keep your speed down between 55 - 60 it will stay in forth gear and no problem or mods needed. Your fuel mileage will be much better also. I even towed a CTS on a car hauler trailer using this method with no problem.

jlgail4309 · **Posted:** Thu May 30, 2013 8:21 pm

Hayden - Fan Clutch is a must everything will take care of it self. It should have a factory trans cooler. Change the transmission fluid and filter. Change the rearend oil. The GDE is a great product. I stayed closer to the lower end on the weight at 3000 pound dry and pack light. If I had it all to do over again. I would find a rounded trailer not a box like mine.

ChooChooman74 · **Posted:** Thu May 30, 2013 8:32 pm

No issues towing this in the tiny mountains of western Massachusetts.

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naturist · **Posted:** Thu May 30, 2013 8:52 pm

I tow a rig just like you suggest: 21 foot, dry weight 3650 lbs, when full, right at GWR of 5,000 lbs. It is 8 feet by 8 feet frontal area, and I have dragged it coast to coast twice.

I replaced the stock Goodyear 225x75 radials with 235x70 Michelins before I got the trailer. I also got 95,000 miles out of the first set of Michelins and I'm on the second set now vs 40,000 miles on the Goodyears.

The frontal area of the rig and its wind resistance will be a bigger issue than the weight. Just be aware of that. If you can find a Trail Manor or Hi-Lo that folds down, one of those would be a good choice.

Beyond that, you will have to be careful of overheating: replace the stock fan clutch, the OEM one is junk, and if you climb a hill or notice overheating starting, shut off overdrive, revs (for both the fan and the water pump) are your friend. And yes, you can indeed run 65 mph in third gear.

The GDE ecotune is also a good idea.

I dragged that trailer across Oklahoma into a 50-60 mph headwind one day, and it was all I could do to hold 50-55 mph on the level (I'll never try that again, btw). But if you think about it, that is actually pretty darn good. I also got my worst mileage ever that day, barely making 9 mpg. I usually get around 15 towing.

I have never seen any sign of transmission overheating problems with the stock tranny cooler. I am getting ready to replace the stock TC this coming week at 168,000 miles. If you are having no signs of the 60 mph shudder issue, you should be fine, although no doubt you will one day want to have saved up your pennies for the TC transplant.

Gabe Watt · **Posted:** Fri May 31, 2013 12:48 pm

Thanks for the input everybody!

I currently have BFG ATs on my Jeep, and they have always worked well for me in all conditions.

I do plan to do a trans fluid and filter change in next couple of weeks. And when I do I'll be adding a new trans-cooler as well. I've read all the write-ups on how and where to put one, so I feel confident about doing that. I'll read up on doing the hayden fan clutch swap.

I'd really like a GDE eco tune, but that's a hard sell to the Mrs.

If I can find nice rounded trailer like what Joe Romas has, then I'll go that route. But so far it looks like boxes are all that are in my budget.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Fri May 31, 2013 1:19 pm

The "hard" part of the Hayden 2905 swap is getting the fan off. See http://www.beesvillebeefarm.com/jeep.html for a decent how to. I'd add:
1. put a piece of cardboard or towel in front of the fan to avoid damaging the radiator when pulling the fan and shroud out as a unit; zip tie the fan shroud nuts into their retains so they don't go missing; and be sure not to misplace the 2 fan shroud bolts as length is critical lest you punch a hole in the radiator using replacement bolts that are too long and
2. while in there do a fan shroud mod (viewtopic.php?f=98&t=64278&p=709322#p709322) so future access is easier.

Hard sell or not a GDE tune is well worth the $s for power, mpg and long term engine life.

kissfan79 · **Posted:** Fri May 31, 2013 1:39 pm

Gabe Watt wrote:

I'd really like a GDE eco tune, but that's a hard sell to the Mrs.

Amen! Preach on! :ROTFL:

I'm in the same boat.

Jim

jlgail4309 · **Posted:** Fri May 31, 2013 10:40 pm

I was in the same box of the dollar bill. But after having for 6 months and towing for 50 hours at 65 miles per hour. Wish I would have a few more dollars for a rounded trailer. But in 10 years maybe a diff TT and TV . But we have had a great time, Cheap to travel

badassjeep · **Joined:** Tue May 10, 2011 9:18 am **Posts:** 66

kissfan79 wrote:

Gabe Watt wrote:

I'd really like a GDE eco tune, but that's a hard sell to the Mrs.

Amen! Preach on! :ROTFL:

I'm in the same boat.

Jim

You guys are going all about this wrong, I told the Mrs. that before we bought it it required a GDE ECO to fix the know bugs and that it would pay for itself in fuel saving in under 15,000 miles.
Now the TCM was a different story.... I quietly swapped that in there one night after 10.... but I didn't pay the full price either

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