Don't let the job intimidate you. It really isn't that bad. If you can get the fan out successfully, the rest is pretty straight-forward. Follow the guides on this site and you'll do fine. I used the cam locking tool to keep my cams still, but also marked cams, injection pump, water pump, and crank. (I realize the injection pump is kind of not timed and water pump isn't timed, but what the heck).

One piece of advice I haven't checked the guides for which helped me is this. Once everything is back together and tensioner is adjusted turn the engine by hand to check all the marks line back up and even out the slack in the belt. Check the tensioner after the revolutions and if it needs adjustment, do that and then do the hand revolutions again, check tensioner again. It should take up some slack the first time through and stay put the second time through. I did this on two vehicles and neither has had any timing issues. The actual hand turning process is like this:

Rotate the engine 720 degrees (two revolutions) and verify that the cams line up. Rotate 360 degrees further (one revolution) and verify that the injection pump marks line up. Rotate 1080 degrees (three revolutions) and verify that all marks line up (both cams, injection pump, and crank should all be back in original positions.)

Again, it's not a terribly hard job once the fan is out. Just take your time.

I did my timing belt without any special tools but I did not remove the cam sprockets or
replace the water pump.

I used drill bits in the cam holes and an allen wrench in the flywheel hole.
Before removing the t-belt, I marked the positions of the cams and crank.
I used a pair of vice grips to gently clamp the the cam sprockets together.
Neither the cams or crank moved as I removed and installed the new t-belt.

When I installed the new belt I started at the exhaust cam and went around clockwise.
As I placed the belt in position on the cams, I held the belt in place using binder clips.
When I got around to the crank, I slightly turned the crank counter clock wise to allow the
belt teeth to mesh properly, then aligned the crank marks again to add some tension to the
belt. (cams were still locked together with the vise grips)
I then finished routing the belt and set the tensioner.
I unclamped and unpinned everything and hand cranked the engine several times.
Then I set the pins in the holes and checked my timing marks.
Then I unpinned and cranked several times again, just to be sure.

I put marks, one per pulley, from the pulley onto the original belt adjacent to a tooth before removing it. Once removed transfer these witness marks from the old to new belt. Double check to ensure that the number of teeth between each mark is the same. When you reassemble, these witness marks should be your primary guide for correct alignment.