Coolant loss when due for a pump?

dgeist · **Posted:** Fri Jul 05, 2013 5:04 pm

Just wondering if others have had slow coolant loss around the time their water pump is due for replacement? I'm at 93k right now and have been adding about a cup a month since the beginning of the year. I have no other symptoms, so I just assumed the pump is starting to weep. Is that something that can be seen easily with the skids off?

Dan

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Hexus · **Posted:** Fri Jul 05, 2013 6:49 pm

You should see some whitish buildup anywhere it's leaking, specifically check around the bottom of the water pump and around the lower radiator hose.

racertracer · **Posted:** Fri Jul 05, 2013 7:00 pm

look at the water pump from below the vehicle ... raise it and look, you may have to remove the skid.

Search for a trail of whitetish grey calcification of water trails down leading from the pump area onto the engine block.

If you can't find the leak then consider taking the opportunity to replace the OEM TTY bolts with the ARP studs now while your going in there. Cheap insurance to eliminate a HG leak.

Tony P. · **Posted:** Fri Jul 05, 2013 9:29 pm

Hey Dan

For what its worth for the past year or maybe two, my Dad'S CRD has been lightly sipping hoat/distiled water 50/50 mix. He's somewhere around 185,??? Miles on his and just ads it as required.

Tony

dgeist · **Posted:** Sat Jul 06, 2013 3:41 pm

racertracer wrote:

look at the water pump from below the vehicle ... raise it and look, you may have to remove the skid.
Search for a trail of whitetish grey calcification of water trails down leading from the pump area onto the engine block.
If you can't find the leak then consider taking the opportunity to replace the OEM TTY bolts with the ARP studs now while your going in there. Cheap insurance to eliminate a HG leak.

Thanks for the tip. I have to change the front diff and tranny fluid/filters one of these days, so the skids will come off and I can check.

Skipping ahead (and I hope I don't need to), but are does the ARP replacement require removing the head from the block? I'd like to not have to disassemble and reassemble everything on the top-end if the bolts can be swapped out one at a time and torqued together.

Dan

geordi · **Posted:** Sat Jul 06, 2013 4:00 pm

For obvious reasons, ARP does not suggest that you should do the job that way, but it CAN and HAS been done that way on many TDI cylinder heads.

You should not need to take the head off to do this. I would strongly advise against removing the head anyway - just do the bolts one at a time like you are thinking. I would check with LMWatbullrun to get the exact specs he has worked up, but the procedure I would use would be remove one bolt, replace with the stud, washer, and nut... And torque to 75-90 lb-ft twice (with a full un-torque between) before moving on to the next bolt.

LMWatBullRun · **Posted:** Sat Jul 06, 2013 10:16 pm

dgeist wrote:

racertracer wrote:

If you can't find the leak then consider taking the opportunity to replace the OEM TTY bolts with the ARP studs now while your going in there. Cheap insurance to eliminate a HG leak.

Thanks for the tip. I have to change the front diff and tranny fluid/filters one of these days, so the skids will come off and I can check.
Skipping ahead (and I hope I don't need to), but are does the ARP replacement require removing the head from the block? I'd like to not have to disassemble and reassemble everything on the top-end if the bolts can be swapped out one at a time and torqued together.
Dan

Did mine one by one. read the ARP stud thread for more information on torques, etc.

Coolant loss when due for a pump?

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