Here's my dilemma , I have a engine removed from a totaled 05, I have it out on a wooden junkyard stand. After removing the front cover I can see the rear cover has a crack where the impact tried to rip the water pump off the block, the gear on the pumps outer ridge took a lick and upon trying to gently turn the engine over I am hitting on something as the piston goes up ( I have a small boss ripped/hole in block) where the power steering pump bolted there which at least give me a point of reference that the Piston and rod are near top when the contact is felt. rotating the engine where the #1 is down and 2-3 would be up also nets similar interference felt.

My question is how should I go about pulling the valve cover and cams when I will not be able to make any of the witness marks for a properly timed engine such that I can see how far off the cams were ( how far did it jump) off, and I basically wont have any reassembly marks other than using the miller tools for timing that I have purchased.

At this point my goal is to have a look at the rockers, get the damaged rear cover off and to do my timing/rockers components conscious of potential damaged valves . Not being able to mark the cam gears against the timing cover seems critical it would be helpful to be able to know what you guys recommend .

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*Parting out an 05 CRD *
Chesterfield VA

If you are just taking the engine apart for parts, there is no need to time it. The Tooling is needed to keep things in time for installation. Be sure to use a cam holding tool when removing the cam bolts. (you can make one) If you don't you may do some damage to the rockers. Remove the intake first. This will close all the valves and the engine should turn over by hand with no clearance problems.

Good luck!!
KJJET

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05 Liberty CRD Sport with Leather 115k
GDE ECO, No EGR, no FCV, (system gone)
Oil Drain plug P/N 090-039
K&N Air Filter, 2nd gen Fuel filter head
NEW Rockers & lifters
Mobil 1 0w-40
Stant 13519 195 deg inline Thermostat.
0 281 002 845 MAP
Etecno GX3123 7v Glow Plugs
Advance Gold 800CCA Battery
Traded it for a Quality VW TDI

I probably should do a tech post on this after verifying my "learned" opinion with Sir Sam but here goes.

There are 2 types of engine timing: 1) mechanical timing which relates to the motion of the pistons, crank, cams, valves, and flywheel and 2) ignition timing which is when fuel lights off in the combustion chamber. #2 you can ignore as that is computer controlled on today's engines as opposed to the "olden" days gas engines where it was controlled at least initially but the position of the distributor.

For your purposes you only care about #1 mechanical timing. If you have a running engine and are doing a timing belt job the simplest approach is to rotate the engine so both cam pins and the flywheel pin all go in at the same time and lock the cams in position relative to each other at which point the engine is locked in mechanical time and you can install the TB. Of course those as paranoid as me will witness mark several other things just in case although probably only the fuel pump pulley matters. If, on the other hand, you have an engine that is known to be out time or in XXX pieces in boxes in your garage what you need to do is reassemble it from the top of the pistons down; lock the flywheel in place with the pin which should put you at the correct TDC position; install the head/rockers/cams with the cams pined in place; double check mechanical timing which should be spot on. I'm not sure how to "retime" the fuel pump but simply lining up the dimples should be close enough as it only lines up every 3 or so engine revolutions anyway. I say reassemble from the top of the pistons down and then do the upper part of the engine because the diesel is an interference engine and I'm pretty sure to do otherwise will cause valves to impact 1 or more pistons during reassembly.

Is this entirely correct? I'm about 95% sure but strongly recommend you PM or email Sir Sam who has brought several CRDs back from the dead and can correct any of my foolish errors.

As to the other engine damage I have no opinion although I do know that the cracked cover can be replaced and there are likely a few used floating around on the forum.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

Like i said...remove the intake first. Then you will have no interference.

If you wanted to repair it? No problem. Make all the repairs then time the crank and pin. Pin the cams in intake. Install the intake, set the pump timing, Install a new belt along with any other new parts.

FYI....I have no idea why anyone would use a marker to set timing. There is NO need to mark anything. That's what pins are for. Stop watching U tube. No shimming, no marks, no moving the crank to set the timing. If you do your work per the manual you do none of this.

Good luck,
KJJET

_________________
05 Liberty CRD Sport with Leather 115k
GDE ECO, No EGR, no FCV, (system gone)
Oil Drain plug P/N 090-039
K&N Air Filter, 2nd gen Fuel filter head
NEW Rockers & lifters
Mobil 1 0w-40
Stant 13519 195 deg inline Thermostat.
0 281 002 845 MAP
Etecno GX3123 7v Glow Plugs
Advance Gold 800CCA Battery
Traded it for a Quality VW TDI

Thank you all for the help I am going to try to use the lisle tool to hold the cams and disassemble the top and inner cover etc. Valve damage is my main concern .I can see the tensioner and the notch indicator is far rightof the tail of the spring which on the other engine I have is dead on the spring

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*Parting out an 05 CRD *
Chesterfield VA