Intermittent no-start problem- cranks fine, but no start

CATCRD · **Posted:** Fri Nov 15, 2013 10:10 pm

fenwood wrote:

Not the crank sensor. Did a bleed test and no fuel coming out of bleeders. Fuel out of front rail but don't know how much pressure at rail. Anyone with a cheap way to check rail pressure? Rebleed system. Still no start. Pulled ecm overnight. New code "p0093 fuel leak". Urgg. Anyone still thinking injectors? Anyone ever change the cp3 solenoids? I just can see pulling the pump yet.

If you have an android device you can get an app called torque pro for $5 and a Bluetooth obd adaptor off amazon or eBay for $25. That will read rail pressure.

bpadlows · **Joined:** Tue Dec 18, 2012 3:10 pm **Posts:** 7

I didn't post in a while because we were trying different fixes.

I added a lift pump (mentioned in an earlier post) in the engine compartment and before the fuel filter. I wired it to the unused "Lift Pump" relay in the fuse box. That seemed to work at first, and had the bonus of smoother & quieter running and quicker response. But, within a few days of installing it, the same no-start problems started.

This time I decided to replace the crankshaft sensor. My dealer did this for me, as I also was due for an oil change. Well, that was the fix: ever since changing it out, I have had no more "no-start" situations or stalling.

That was 2 weeks ago.

Yesterday while driving into work on the interstate doing about 70 mph in the left lane (passing a car), there was a very loud bang followed by a brown cloud of smoke and small parts and/or debris flying out of the engine compartment. The engine quickly revved from 2000 (at 70 mph) to about 3500 at which point I turned the key off, shutting the engine down. I made it to the shoulder of the road, trailing a big oil slick. We flatbedded it to the dealer where it awaits judgement....the tow truck driver claimed he saw a large hole in the side of the block, although I didn't see it. But oil was pouring out when he tilted the jeep onto the truck.

This really bummed me out, as I had nearly got the Lib to a good place- everything was working, timing belt had just been replaced, new set of 5 tires, and so on. Now I am faced with the prospect of replacing the engine on a car with 105,000 miles along with all of its legacy issues.

jeepdan · **Posted:** Sat Nov 16, 2013 6:16 pm

Wow, Sorry to hear this, I'm lost for words.
I was hoping to click on this thread today, and learn that you replaced the Crank sensor and all was well.

fenwood · **Joined:** Wed Oct 30, 2013 5:12 pm **Posts:** 9

Oh Man, that's a total bummer!

bpadlows · **Joined:** Tue Dec 18, 2012 3:10 pm **Posts:** 7

Waiting on tenterhooks to learn whether the turbo exploded, or if I did really knock a hole in the block. Dealer said they should know by Monday afternoon.

So I am debating- perhaps some of you went thru this before- rebuild or scrap the Jeep? I know I don't know for sure whether the block is cracked, but it was barfing oil like crazy, pouring out from above the oil filter; couldn't see where exactly.

I bought the Jeep used with 94 K miles on it in April, and put another $5 K into it: timing chain, injectors, new sensor, brakes, tires, etc. On the one hand, I hate to junk it, as the body and chassis is as tight as a crab's booty, no rust anywhere; the interior is immaculate too. And when it ran, it ran away like a scalded cat. But it galls me to pay say $5K for a USED engine + installation costs, which will give me a another unknown factor: how well was the engine taken care of? I babied the engine, but only for the last 10,000 miles. Who knows how it was treated for the first 94,000 miles? And now another unknown engine?

I am considering cutting my losses at this point.

I would consider conversion to a simpler diesel (like the Cummins 4BT) but from what I have read, that engine isn't well-suited to the Liberty; Wranglers are a better fit. The VW TDI is underpowered. The Detroit 4-53 is a great engine, but a loud bone-shaker.

thermorex · **Posted:** Sat Nov 16, 2013 11:50 pm

The problem with an engine swap is the auto tranny... If you go with a manual, it's better, but then you need custom mounts, bell housing, all dashboard lights, overall, a pain in the butt... Sorry for this problem, it really sucks! Either get a wrangler with a 4bt (you need to have a Dana 60 front for that heavy engine = more expenses, either get a Cherokee and go with a Mercedes om617 diesel, which is lighter but it's still gonna run you big bucks in all the required accessories (bell housing, mounts, gauges, etc). You'll still be cheaper rebuilding this crd engine or getting another truck.

KJ sucks as an offroad, everything kj does, Cherokee XJ does better and wrangler does it even better.

jeepdan · **Posted:** Wed Nov 20, 2013 11:22 am

bpadlows wrote:

This time I decided to replace the crankshaft sensor. My dealer did this for me, as I also was due for an oil change. Well, that was the fix: ever since changing it out, I have had no more "no-start" situations or stalling.

That was 2 weeks ago.

Yesterday while driving into work on the interstate doing about 70 mph in the left lane (passing a car), there was a very loud bang followed by a brown cloud of smoke and small parts and/or debris flying out of the engine compartment. The engine quickly revved from 2000 (at 70 mph) to about 3500 at which point I turned the key off, shutting the engine down. I made it to the shoulder of the road, trailing a big oil slick. We flatbedded it to the dealer where it awaits judgement....the tow truck driver claimed he saw a large hole in the side of the block, although I didn't see it. But oil was pouring out when he tilted the jeep onto the truck.

This really bummed me out, as I had nearly got the Lib to a good place- everything was working, timing belt had just been replaced, new set of 5 tires, and so on. Now I am faced with the prospect of replacing the engine on a car with 105,000 miles along with all of its legacy issues.

Did you find out what kind of a failure the jeep had yet?
Can't stand the suspense :5SHOTS:

darinb · **Posted:** Fri Mar 11, 2016 5:15 pm

My issue was the same as weeks101. I had been having intermittent start for 3 weeks. Thought it was a week battery. Finally wouldn't start one day. Tried for an hour. I disconnected the ecm harness..blew on it.. Back on the road

japrovo · **Joined:** Fri Dec 02, 2016 12:59 pm **Posts:** 1

Has anyone found a definite solution to this problem?

My initial thought was it was my crank shaft sensor as well, I had it replace about 2 months ago.

My car has been experiencing the same problem for about a month not with it not starting on 6ish different occasions. I took t in to get looked at but there was no check engine light on and they couldn't find anything. Typically when it doesn't start it either will the second time i try or when I come back to it in a few minutes.

I could really use some help on this.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Fri Dec 02, 2016 3:05 pm

japrovo wrote:

Has anyone found a definite solution to this problem?

My initial thought was it was my crank shaft sensor as well, I had it replace about 2 months ago.

My car has been experiencing the same problem for about a month not with it not starting on 6ish different occasions. I took t in to get looked at but there was no check engine light on and they couldn't find anything. Typically when it doesn't start it either will the second time i try or when I come back to it in a few minutes.

I could really use some help on this.

Yours is the 3.7L gasoline engine? (says so in your signature)
May want to ask this in the general discussion or KJ 4x4 sections.

If its a intermittent problem then its likely a loose electrical connection or possibly a bad relay.
As usual, verify that you have spark and fuel pressure.

Intermittent no-start problem- cranks fine, but no start

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