hey folks. right now I'm sitting in a hotel room in Benson, AZ. I was driving back from Texas when my CRD began to shudder occasionally. It's a new to me 2005 Limited that I bought 2 months ago. I recently did the timing belt job along with a new tensioner, water pump, and thermostat. I used the Beesville Bee farm website as my guide. When done it started right up, and has been running fine for a couple of weeks.

Anyway, On my way back I started to feel a stumbling or a shudder. I thought it might be the famed TC shudder, but it continued to get worse and worse with a slight loss of power. Eventually it got bad enough that I pulled over and limped it to the nearest autozone. There is a knocking sound coming from near the front of the engine. It actually sounds like it it coming from the CAC and it is in rhythm with the pulses I can feel in the boost hoses. the code scanner gave me the following errors: P0301 (#1 cylinder misfire) P0299 (low boost) and P0102 (Maf/Map sensor). The MAF sensor one doesn't surprise me since I have it unplugged. I remove and checked 2 of the three boost hoses and din't find any cracks. I wasn't able to pull the one that travels under the radiator to the other side of the CAC though.

I (perhaps foolishly) tried to limp it over to the next town of Benson where there is a uhaul dealership in case I needed to tow it the rest of the way back to San Diego, and it eventually died all together and now won't start. There was very little power, and you could really tell the turbo wasn't running (plus it was running on three cylinders) because it was belching black smoke from the exhaust.

It's full of oil, and I can't see anything else wrong with it. Is it possible the new timing belt has jumped a cog? Could it just be the turbo? I did notice a lot of air in the fuel, and the filter was loose. I tightened it up and bled the system, but it didn't help. Is it possible it's bad fuel?

Any help would be appreciated. I'd love to patch it up enough to get it home to San Diego and save the $1000 it will cost to rent a uhaul and trailer (any suggestions on cheaper towing would also be appreciated.

I hope I didn't F*&^ up the engine.

Thanks,
Mike

BTW I've been lurking here for several months before I bought the CRD and have learned a ton. It's too bad that this is my first post.

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2005 Liberty CRD Limited
DIY Garage Remanufactured Engine with GDE Full Torque Eco Tune from mile zero.
ARP Studs
Cummins Lift Pump
Transgo HD2 Reprogramming Kit
DIY Rebuilt Tranny Pump
Suncoast Torque Converter
2nd Generation Fuel Head
Sears P1 Battery
Hot Diesel Solutions Thermostat

I sent you a PM with my phone number.

Will the engine turn over with the starter?
Were you, by chance, driving it to the other town with the boost hoses disconnected?
Was there any change at all after you messed with the fuel filter?
How long (in time and distance) approximately did you drive with the noise / shuddering / rough running?
How long (again, time and distance) approximately did you drive to the other town with it smoking? How fast were you going?

This doesn't sound good - I don't like the misfire code. That isn't a good one at all.

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Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
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Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
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Over 225 CRDs currently driving with my valves, timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.

Yes, but won't start



No. I removed them to check them out, and then reconnected them. There was a difference in the power after that though.



No difference



10 miles/ 30 mins



15 miles/ 20 mins at 45 mph.



Not to me either. As i said before in started out intermittently. Like 5 seconds or so out of 20 minutes of driving if that makes a difference. Can I call you tonight or would it be better in the morning?

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2005 Liberty CRD Limited
DIY Garage Remanufactured Engine with GDE Full Torque Eco Tune from mile zero.
ARP Studs
Cummins Lift Pump
Transgo HD2 Reprogramming Kit
DIY Rebuilt Tranny Pump
Suncoast Torque Converter
2nd Generation Fuel Head
Sears P1 Battery
Hot Diesel Solutions Thermostat

Sounds like your one or more of injectors are stuck open to return. This happened to me after running sub spec biodiesel for 70K. Billowing black smoke coming out the tail pipe. Eventually died and would not restart. Biodiesel glycerin coating breaks free from inner injector walls and holds the check valve in the top of the injector open. Fuel system can no longer build adequate pressure to run. I bought two new injectors to fix mine. I do not believe this is necessary. The injectors come apart. If you were able to take #3 injector out of motor and disassemble then clean I suspect you could get your vehicle running again. I have had all my injectors apart and back together and they work fine so I know this is possible. Must be very careful not to lose the ball that is the check valve in the top of the injector. It is very tiny(size of ball in the tip of a pen). Hope this info helps...

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2006 Liberty CRD 275K, JBA 2.5 with Fox Shocks, GDE Turbo Kit, GDE TCM Tune, Suncoast TC, OEM fuel filter housing converted to fit Caterpillar Fuel Filter 1R-0749, OEM themostat housing modified to accept Hemi 203 F thermostat.

I'm so sorry to have this be your first post, too.

I can't claim to know what the problem is, but I can reassure you that it isn't the timing belt jumping a tooth. That would NOT result in a slowly worsening situation such as you experienced. It would run fine right up until it jumped, and then it would noisily and almost instantly stop. Something else is the cause, and my guess is it is unrelated to the recent timing belt job.

Best of luck, and the real experts here will help you sort it out.

Have it towed to a real Bosch diesel shop after you have confirmed in advance that they are interested in working on it.

DOC

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2005 KJ CRD Ltd Detroit TrueTrac Bilsteins G2 GDE "HOT" ECU GDE TCM "Tow Tune" "euro" TC SEGR Weeks Elbow New HG at 130K ARPs Clean CAT aFe Filter Magnaflow Exhaust EHM Cumminos In-Tank Lift Pump Hayden Fan Clutch Nylon Fan VH Enabled with GDE lower shutoff point Recalibrated Temp Gauge Tekonsha Prodigy Sears P-1 ZDDP

I didn't have the energy or resources to deal with it on the road. After getting some sleep, I walked 2 miles to the local U-haul place, rented a truck and trailer, and paid the tow truck driver to winch it up onto the auto transport and drove home. So far I haven't touched it, but i appreciate everything people suggested. My focus right now is to get my Subaru put back together so I can get the CRD in the driveway to start trying to figure out WTF is wrong.

_________________
2005 Liberty CRD Limited
DIY Garage Remanufactured Engine with GDE Full Torque Eco Tune from mile zero.
ARP Studs
Cummins Lift Pump
Transgo HD2 Reprogramming Kit
DIY Rebuilt Tranny Pump
Suncoast Torque Converter
2nd Generation Fuel Head
Sears P1 Battery
Hot Diesel Solutions Thermostat