Transfer case

Lancer · **Posted:** Wed Aug 14, 2013 9:55 am

I'm at home right now, bit unwell but mainly because my kitchen ceiling is being replaced - minor domestic disaster, but anyway.

I decided to do some maintenance, so I thought I'd change fluids, starting from the rear. Rear diff no problem, other than the pain of getting the oil in! Transfer case - bl##dy hell! Sprayed with Plusgas (our equivalent of pb40), left for 5 mins, 10mm allen head on half inch drive applied slowly, head shattered, fill plug didn't move. More plusgas, waited, another 10 mm head slowly applied also shattered. This time sprayed Loctite freeze and ease, then applied 10mm allen wrench. Fill plug didn't move. At that point I gave up as I didn't want to risk damaging anything - especially the case.

I've had the 10mm socket heads for years, and I bought decent ones back then (the cheap Chinese stuff wasn't around then), so I was more than a bit surprised when they just sheared.

Any ideas? I'd rather do the fluid change myself if at all possible, but I don't have power/air tools and as I said, i don't want to risk damaging the case.

kissfan79 · **Posted:** Wed Aug 14, 2013 10:45 am

Wow...that's crazy. It's a darn good thing you followed the rule of pulling the fill plug first before the drain plug. That would majorly suck to drain the fluid and then not be able to remove the fill plug. I hate plugs that are set in aluminum housings for this exact reason. Too easy to damage things when they are too tight. Good luck in getting that plug out.

Jim

Lancer · **Posted:** Wed Aug 14, 2013 11:26 am

Yep - that's a lesson I learned as a teenager (a very long time ago) with my first bike.

dieseldoesit · **Posted:** Wed Aug 14, 2013 11:42 am

Try putting the allen back on, attach a large locking pliers to it at a 90 degree angle, then tap on it with a hammer while applying force to turn it.

Might help to get it unfrozen.

Good luck!

papaindigo · **Posted:** Wed Aug 14, 2013 11:49 am

Old mechanic tricks:
1. apply your preferred version of a break free lube while tapping (directly or indirectly via the head of the allen wrench) the plug but not while trying to turn. Up/down vibration can help lube penetrate.
2. alternatively if heat can be applied then penetrating lube that might be an option.

Lancer · **Posted:** Wed Aug 14, 2013 11:54 am

Thanks Diesel and Jim, I'll try the tapping, lube and localised heat approach as you both suggest. Profuse swearing may be involved!

dieseldoesit · **Posted:** Wed Aug 14, 2013 11:56 am

Careful on the "applying heat" since you have already soaked it in lube. You don't know what type of chemicals will be released nor if the residue is extremely flammable.

Just something to think about.

Maybe just paranoid, but this article always freaks me out.

http://www.centralstreetscene.org/forum ... hp?t=35574

papaindigo · **Posted:** Wed Aug 14, 2013 12:48 pm

An appropriate cautionary note although I suspect tapping with lube will do the trick

Drewd · **Joined:** Mon Feb 06, 2006 12:24 pm **Posts:** 902

HEAT! Heat till it isnice and hot and then blast it with lubricant (make sure flame is off first). Hold breath to avoid dangerous fumes. This combo works great if you can stomach the fumes.

dirtmover · **Posted:** Thu Aug 15, 2013 10:32 am

kissfan79 wrote:

Wow...that's crazy. It's a darn good thing you followed the rule of pulling the fill plug first before the drain plug. That would majorly suck to drain the fluid and then not be able to remove the fill plug. I hate plugs that are set in aluminum housings for this exact reason. Too easy to damage things when they are too tight. Good luck in getting that plug out.

Yeah, the fact that they're dissimilar materials dosn't help either. The problem is, the guy that designs this stuff usually has zero maintenance experience. Most of them wouldn't have a clue how to disassemble their own creations after they've been on the road for a few winters. Of course the accessibility challenges they create is another issue entirely.

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