Now She's ready!

Verbal_CRD · **Joined:** Wed Jan 09, 2013 8:23 pm **Posts:** 46

After a long afternoon, much cursing and a slight bit of delirium the CRD now has...

New timing belt/tensioner
New ceramic f/r brakes
Hayden fan clutch
Samco hoses
15w40 with much larger m1-301 filter
New alternator pulley
K&N drop in w/ pre-filter
Fresh Cat-ec1 coolant

Definitely not the easiest to get to, but a cake walk compared to some audi s4's I've done.

Now to load up the toolbox and follow the sunset!

Hexus · **Posted:** Sat Aug 17, 2013 4:44 pm

The Cat EC-1 Coolant is an OAT coolant and is NOT RECOMMENDED for our vehicles. I don't care how long you have been running it, or your friend's grandpa's sister's cousin's best friend's neighbor runs it in theirs.

This is the WRONG COOLANT, and you RISK DESTROYING YOUR ENGINE running it at length.

You need Zerex G-05 HOAT coolant, the Mopar Equivalent, or Ford Gold is HOAT as well IIRC.

This coolant is the wrong chemistry for your system and can/will damage it.

Get it OUT, NOW.

This ends this service announcement.

geordi · **Posted:** Sat Aug 17, 2013 5:08 pm

What he said!

You are risking your coolant mixing and turning to JELLY in the passages. Right now, you need to flush the entire system until it runs CLEAR, top to bottom. You would *almost* be better served by running plain water instead of mixing the wrong stuff.

Prestone makes a flushing kit that can connect to a garden hose. I would suggest connecting one of these at the top of the system, and open the drain in the radiator at the bottom. Keep pumping water through until no more colors come out, then drain and refill twice more with plain water while the engine pumps it around a bit. THEN finally drain and refill with the proper HOAT.

Drewd · **Joined:** Mon Feb 06, 2006 12:24 pm **Posts:** 902

Don't forget to turn on the heat so you can get rid of the wrong stuff in our heater core.

Verbal_CRD · **Joined:** Wed Jan 09, 2013 8:23 pm **Posts:** 46

There sure is a lot of mixed up information on this board.....

I had G-05 that I filled it with in December... while at the auto parts store I figured, what the h3ll.. google "liberty crd cat ec-1" and this is what i find.

Cowpie1 wrote:

When I referred to the Red Stuff in my previous post, I was not even thinking of the typical store shelf Dexcool or whatever. The stuff I use in my CRD is the same stuff I use in the Cummins in my semi. Cat EC-1 is one of the labels it goes under. Delo and Shell have this specific diesel engine coolant as well. It is HOAT. The stuff went thru 350,000 miles in my semi and looked great. I decided to flush and fill with new ELC coolant when I had to replace a water pump that developed a cold leak (heck, had to drain the block anyway). Cheap insurance. It was factory filled with Shell Rotella ELC coolant (same stuff as Cat EC-1). Since there are many similarities between modern semi engines and the Liberty CRD engine, specifically the wet sleeved cylinders, then it seems warranted to use the same coolant that large diesels use and is specifically formulated to protect wet sleeved cylinders and aluminum heads. Not sure the stuff on the typical Wally World shelves is the same stuff (at the very least, I haven't seen this stuff on Wally shelves or even home and farm stores in my area and the auto parts stores didn't carry it). I get all my coolant from heavy truck supply outlets or dealers. The Duramax and Powerstroke diesels are not wet sleeved, so they do not have a problem with cylinder liner cavitation. The CRD will have the same issues as heavy diesel engines which are wet sleeved. Since it is extremely expensive to replace the cylinder liners in a CRD, I didn't want to take any chances. So... the CRD gets the same coolant my semi gets. Didn't even bother to consult Chrysler/Jeep on the issue. I go by the standards and recommendations of the Technology and Maintenance Council... the hands down authority in the transportation industry and recognized by ALL diesel engine OEMs.

Like I stated before, take the information for what you think it's worth. No skin off my back what coolant you choose. If you feel comfortable using green, then by all means do so. I brought this up only so some would at least research out the issue before just throwing any 'ol coolant in their CRD. Of many things I would be willing to save a buck on, coolant in my CRD is not one of them, just like in the $25,000 engine in my semi. And it was not much more expensive to flush and fill the CRD with the ELC coolant. Barely noticed the price compared to many other costs associated with the CRD.

MRausch82 · **Posted:** Sat Aug 17, 2013 10:33 pm

Do a full flush, get the G-05 coolant and refill. I drained mine from the radiator drain when I did the TB/WP last week, and refilled with G-05 and distilled water. Wish I had actually flushed it as the coolant is still darker than the G-05 (I know it had the factory HOAT coolant...). May do that in the fall or in the spring. At least it has mostly new coolant now, so I feel better. No corrosion was noted in any of the passages that I could see. All looked like new. Running the wrong stuff is not a good idea. Especially if it was not 100% flushed. You will get some slimy gel forming, which if nothing else, will cause the cooling system to not work as effectively, i.e. overheat. The gauge may say you are alright, but you may get pockets of heat and some problems as a result. Not worth it in my opinion...

LS12FAST4U · **Posted:** Sun Aug 18, 2013 11:10 am

Are you saying there is miss information floating around on the internet? Not possible! If its on the internet or you read it in the Enquirer magazine its all 100% true haha.

Verbal_CRD · **Joined:** Wed Jan 09, 2013 8:23 pm **Posts:** 46

LS12FAST4U wrote:

Are you saying there is miss information floating around on the internet? Not possible! If its on the internet or you read it in the Enquirer magazine its all 100% true haha.

Aren't you master of the obvious. Actually, I said this board... I would figure being a board of enthusiast the information would be solid. The parts guy at carquest advised it was HOAT. When the search returned a post from this board, and the post I quoted was not corrected by any other members, I grabbed the coolant. Thanks for being a d1ck though :roll:

Geordi. I did a full flush, otherwise, I wouldn't be quite as aggravated.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sun Aug 18, 2013 1:49 pm

Guys let's keep it reasonably civil. Now that's off my chest.

Several vehicle manufactures DCJ included have, for a number of years, recommended using a HOAT coolant as opposed to an OAT or other type of coolant. To the best of my knowledge there are 3, maybe 4, clearly HOAT coolants on the market. Mopar 5 Year/100,000 Mile, Ford / Motorcraft Premium Gold Engine Coolant, Zerex G-05, and maybe? Mercedes Benz Antifreeze Agent - Part # Q 103 0002. Also as far as I know these are all ELC (a.k.a. extended life coolants). Cat EC-1 is not a brand of coolant, at least I don't think it is, rather it's a Caterpillar rating for a type of ELC coolant. However, there are ELC coolants that are OAT and ones that are HOAT. Zerex Extended Life HD 618-1 does meet Cat EC-1 specs but it's not clear to me whether that particular coolant in OAT or HOAT. I say that because the main Zerex web page on that coolant implies that it's HOAT while the Zerex MSDS sheet implies that it's OAT, personally I suspect the latter is the case.

For what it's worth both Zerex G-05 and Extended Life protect against liner pitting (I think that's what folks mean when they talk about cavitation)

What does coolant color mean in today's world. As far as I can tell not much more than the dye color more or less randomly chosen for that run of coolant. Or to put it another way you can no longer depend on color to indicate compatibility when mixing coolants.

Is mixing coolants a good or bad thing to do. Based on the experience of some forum members the best I can say is it's a dangerous thing to do and can result in a plugged up cooling system. This is particularly true, apparently, when a "universal" antifreeze (think Dex-cool for example) is mixed with HOAT antifreeze. In this case though the OP did a full flush not a mixing and he used what appears to be an OAT coolant (as far as I can tell HOAT = OAT+some additives) hence I suspect he will be ok although if it was my vehicle I'd repeat the annoying operation but it's not my vehicle.

FYI it won't hurt to run the heater while draining/flushing but it's really not necessary as there is no valve that turns on coolant flow to the heater. Flow runs all the time and temperature is controlled by baffles in the HIVAC housing.

Hexus · **Posted:** Sun Aug 18, 2013 6:14 pm

Hey I just posted to help the guy, because when I saw he put something other than G-05 in his I immediately became suspicious. I did some internet research and found out the coolant he was using is an OAT coolant, and advised him to change it out.

No good deed goes unpunished apparently.

And it does depend on who you get your information from on this board, greatly.

dieseldoesit · **Posted:** Mon Aug 19, 2013 11:48 am

papaindigo wrote:

(I think that's what folks mean when they talk about cavitation)

Cavitation is when the pump is not pumping coolant, but air. I would think either due to spinning to fast, or the liquid is too thick.

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Tue Aug 20, 2013 10:55 pm

Cavitation is a localized bubble
caused more by a stress/pressure fluctuation
that cause the liquid to change to gas phase
as the bubble collapses it erodes the metal and can do a lot of damage.

propellers/pumps get hit with that a lot - because of the pressure changes at the surface
but diesel cylinder liners are susceptible too.

Now She's ready!

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