EGR Block off plate dimensions

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sun Jul 24, 2016 12:56 pm

DAVO67 wrote:

I just thought blocking the EGR now would be a good thing to do to in the interim. I'd also read somewhere that putting in a blocking plate won't trigger a CEL the Aussie models?

Installing a EGR block-off plate will not trigger any DTC's (CEL) untill you can get the Weeks elbow kit! Do not forget to remove the butterfly plate out of the FCV as well at the same time. Removing it too will also not trigger any DTC's.... :wink:

mass-hole · **Posted:** Mon Jul 25, 2016 11:33 am

DAVO67 wrote:

Thanks for the info WWDiesel and undrgng, I really appreciate it.

I have also joined the AJOR forum undrgng so hope to chat with you there as well in the future.

I do want to install the Weeks stage 1 and 2 and get a GDE tune but I'm a little short on funds at the moment. I just thought blocking the EGR now would be a good thing to do to in the interim. I'd also read somewhere that putting in a blocking plate won't trigger a CEL the Aussie models?

So far I've installed a Provent 200, changed to Samco silicon hoses and did a full service with new filters and oil. The car was well maintained by the previous owner, always serviced and had the timing belt done at 100,000km. It runs well at the moment but I realise that without some other preventative maintenance I will have issues in the future.

Thanks for the tip on the glow plugs undrgnd. The yellow sticker on the timing case says this model has 7V ceramics so I will change them out as well.

Thanks again!!

I have had the 5V bosch metal plugs in my Jeep since I bought it with 42,000 miles. I got a GDE tune probably by 55,000 miles and later asked them what glow plugs it was setup for and they told me 7V. I am now at 90,000 miles and have only had to replace 1 plug despite some extremely cold winters so I believe Yeti when he says that the more recent versions of our tunes can handle both 5V and 7V plug without causing damage.

Bushman5 · **Joined:** Sat Jul 11, 2015 11:05 am **Posts:** 276

I installed the egr block off. Triggers a P0102 CEL
. Removing the plate makes the cel go off.
I can live with a cel though. And a block off plate.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Mon Jul 25, 2016 4:12 pm

Bushman5 wrote:

I installed the egr block off. Triggers a P0102 CEL
. Removing the plate makes the cel go off.
I can live with a cel though. And a block off plate.

Remove the butterfly plate in the FCV, only two screws holding it in place; the P0102 should go away. Also, clean or replace your MAP sensor. A new (GM Part No. 55206797) can be used and cost on line it about 20 bucks, much less than the Mopar part.
Clean the MAF sensor with the proper cleaner. If you are running a K&N or similar type air filter, the oil from the air filter can get on the MAF sensor and trigger a P0102 DTC... Go back to a good paper type filter!!! :wink:

DAVO67 · **Posted:** Tue Jul 26, 2016 11:43 pm

WWDiesel wrote:

Remove the butterfly plate in the FCV, only two screws holding it in place; the P0102 should go away. Also, clean or replace your MAP sensor. A new (GM Part No. 55206797) can be used and cost on line it about 20 bucks, much less than the Mopar part.
Clean the MAF sensor with the proper cleaner. If you are running a K&N or similar type air filter, the oil from the air filter can get on the MAF sensor and trigger a P0102 DTC... Go back to a good paper type filter!!! :wink:

Is it just a matter of disconnecting the intake hose to gain access to two screws holding the FCV butterfly plate in place? Also, anyone know what size bit i'll need for the screws?

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Wed Jul 27, 2016 11:12 pm

DAVO67 wrote:

Is it just a matter of disconnecting the intake hose to gain access to two screws holding the FCV butterfly plate in place? Also, anyone know what size bit i'll need for the screws?

Yes, just remove the hose and the FCV (4 small bolts) and then remove the two screws holding the butterfly to the shaft and discard them! I dug around and found my old FCV this evening and examined it, but I did not save the old screws and butterfly plate and I do not remember whether they were phillips head screws or torx head... Once you take the screws out, do not put them back in the shaft since if one was to come loose it would be ingested by the motor, not a good thing!!! :roll:

Reinstall the FCV using a little sealant and connect the boost hose back to the FCV....

DAVO67 · **Posted:** Thu Jul 28, 2016 1:04 am

WWDiesel wrote:

DAVO67 wrote:

Is it just a matter of disconnecting the intake hose to gain access to two screws holding the FCV butterfly plate in place? Also, anyone know what size bit i'll need for the screws?

Yes, just remove the hose and the FCV (4 small bolts) and then remove the two screws holding the butterfly to the shaft and discard them! I dug around and found my old FCV this evening and examined it, but I did not save the old screws and butterfly plate and I do not remember whether they were phillips head screws or torx head... Once you take the screws out, do not put them back in the shaft since if one was to come loose it would be ingested by the motor, not a good thing!!! :roll:

Reinstall the FCV using a little sealant and connect the boost hose back to the FCV....

Thanks WWD. Will be getting that little job done this weekend.

Edit: This pic says the two scews are T15 Torx.
http://up.picr.de/4716840.jpg

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Thu Jul 28, 2016 10:55 am

DAVO67 wrote:

Thanks WWD. Will be getting that little job done this weekend.

Edit: This pic says the two scews are T15 Torx.
http://up.picr.de/4716840.jpg

Thanks, I will save the picture/information for future reference!!!!

racertracer · **Posted:** Mon Oct 17, 2016 9:27 pm

I am going to remove the exhaust to EGR tube and the EGR to throttle body tube..... Does any one know the size of the bolt/plug and copper washer to use to block off the holes?

95Z28A4 · **Joined:** Sun Mar 30, 2014 9:53 am **Posts:** 297

racertracer wrote:

I am going to remove the exhaust to EGR tube and the EGR to throttle body tube..... Does any one know the size of the bolt/plug and copper washer to use to block off the holes?

If you're talking about the coolant supply from the head to the EGR cooler it is Dorman 65413. It includes the threaded plug and the copper crush washer.

If you're removing the "Y" in the coolant line from the EGR cooler return, you will need Orbit 5/8 Aluminum Water Hose Repair Kit with Hose Clamps (search amazon.com).

These are the exact same parts sold by Sasquatch in the EGR removal stage 2 kit.

racertracer · **Posted:** Tue Oct 18, 2016 5:41 am

Thanks, I'm looking for the size of the plug that blocks off the exhaust.

Is it the M12 ?

I read a post about it many years ago.... I can't find it now.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Tue Oct 18, 2016 9:02 am

Sasquatch (weeks101) makes the plug for the exhaust manifold. Its part of his stage 2 kit.
If you dont want to go with the sasquatch intake elbow, you can remove the factory elbow, take it to the hardware store, and find a bolt that would fit into the hole. Then get a tap sized for the bolt and cut threads into the hole to thread the bolt into.
You could probably do the same for the exhaust manifold but removing the exhaust manifold to tap the hole would be a lot more work.
(heck, you could probably even plug the intake hole with a bolt and some JBweld)

95Z28A4 · **Joined:** Sun Mar 30, 2014 9:53 am **Posts:** 297

racertracer wrote:

Thanks, I'm looking for the size of the plug that blocks off the exhaust.

Is it the M12 ?

I read a post about it many years ago.... I can't find it now.

Ok. Now I understand. You can purchase the Sasquatch stage 2 EGR kit. It has a stainless steel tapered cap that is clamped onto the manifold using the factory clamp. I used it and have bee running it for over 40k miles without issues.

The best and a much more difficult solution is to tap the exhaust manifold for 3/4 NPT pipe threads. You'll likely have to remove the exhaust manifold to use the tap. You can also tap the port on the factory intake ELL for 3/4" NPT threads and gut the FCV instead of buying Sasquatch ELL.

I bought the srage 1 and stage 2 kits from Sasquatch because it is effective and installation is easier than the work I described in the previous paragraph.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Tue Oct 18, 2016 9:39 am

racertracer wrote:

Thanks, I'm looking for the size of the plug that blocks off the exhaust.
Is it the M12 ?
I read a post about it many years ago.... I can't find it now.

The exhaust end of the tube uses a round banjo type clamp; the manifold is not threaded.
A simple solution is to make a blank that fits inside the factory clamp and then clamp it back in place.

I made a blank out of a stainless steel fender washer and used a bolt / nut to stop up the hole in the washer.
Worked perfect and does not leak; been there for several years now...

The factory clamp looks like this:

racertracer · **Posted:** Tue Oct 18, 2016 10:28 am

Never heard of tapping the exhaust, why is the purpose of that?

I' want to cap the hole using the existing banjo clamp and an oil drain plug and its copper washer.

mass-hole · **Posted:** Tue Oct 18, 2016 10:33 am

racertracer wrote:

Never heard of tapping the exhaust, why is the purpose of that?

I' want to cap the hole using the existing banjo clamp and an oil drain plug and its copper washer.

To allow you to bolt in a plug which is likely more secure than a cap and v-band. I did the cap and v band method per the Weeks kit and its worked fine from what I can tell.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Tue Oct 18, 2016 11:13 am

racertracer wrote:

Never heard of tapping the exhaust, why is the purpose of that?

I' want to cap the hole using the existing banjo clamp and an oil drain plug and its copper washer.

Make sure whatever you are using fits perfectly or tightly inside the "V" of the V-band clamp!!! :wink:

Bushman5 · **Joined:** Sat Jul 11, 2015 11:05 am **Posts:** 276

Well i think i lucked out for once on this jeep. Previous owner had made a block off plate and had installed it about three days after he bought the truck. When my valverockers went the mechanic commented on how clean the entire system was, no soot. The head machinist commented that the cams and stuff were exceptionally "no wear" , they found no soot anywhere.

block off plate for the win!

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Fri Feb 03, 2017 11:13 am

Bushman5 wrote:

Well i think i lucked out for once on this jeep. Previous owner had made a block off plate and had installed it about three days after he bought the truck. When my valverockers went the mechanic commented on how clean the entire system was, no soot. The head machinist commented that the cams and stuff were exceptionally "no wear" , they found no soot anywhere.

block off plate for the win!

X2

jeepsterkj · **Joined:** Mon Jun 11, 2018 7:38 am **Posts:** 52

Hi, I am curious about blanking off the EGR valve but I have a few questions...
1) If I blank it off would that cause an ECU code issue which would flag up when I take it in for it's next MOT?...If that happens then it would almost certainly fail the MOT and I would have to reinstate the EGR before it could pass.
2) What is a GDE tune and how does one apply it?
3) Does blanking off the EGR improve MPG?
4) Is it illegal to remove the EGR valve altogether, as some here have done?

EGR Block off plate dimensions

Who is online