EGR Block off plate dimensions

LikesDieselTanks · **Posted:** Thu Sep 12, 2013 5:43 pm

If you block the exhaust feed and then leave the egr open to the atmosphere and your egr is still functional, doesn't that mean it will suck in unfiltered air when the fcv directs it to let in air (which was supposed to be exhaust)? Don't you then run the risk of sucking something large and bad into your manifold?

Glend · **Posted:** Thu Sep 12, 2013 6:07 pm

deleted

LikesDieselTanks · **Posted:** Thu Sep 12, 2013 6:13 pm

Then it seems my solution (for a stock tune) is the block plate with an after market dump valve in the air charge system.

minisub · **Posted:** Thu Sep 12, 2013 8:04 pm

But with a VVT turbo, the vanes are the "dump" valve. This is what I am having a hard time understanding from a practical standpoint.

Yes, the EGR path provides a route for excess exhaust manifold pressure to get to the exhaust. However, it is a circuitous route, and it is being controlled by the same computer that Should be commanding the vanes to full open at the same time, and that is at the point where you most want to be dumping pressure to keep the wheel from reversing and snapping the shaft.

I have only had this beast for a year, and only about 2 lurking around here, so I'm no expert, and clearly GDE commands great respect, so I accept there is something to it, I just don't have it real high on my pantheon of things to worry about.... :mrgreen:

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Thu Sep 12, 2013 9:33 pm

Thanks for the correction on the throttle plate, AKA Flow control valve. I am learning so much about this little diesel since joining this forum. A lot of knowledgeable people on here who don't seem to mind sharing what they know. As to some of the suggestions; I am going to leave the EGR blocked and I plan to do away with the cooling hoses this weekend that are connected to it as suggested by some on this list. I have removed the CCV out of the intake and I may put a catch can on it at a later date. I have built one before for a turbo PT Cruiser. Right now very little coming out of the CCV vent/drain when parked. I installed a Diablo Sport extreme power Puck yesterday and drove it some today, really made a big difference in power levels and no black smoke was observed. Like very much bing able to adjust hte power levels as I can with my Edge box on my Dodge Cummins Diesel. At this point I must prioritize what funds are spent on next and a GDE tune is way down the list if ever. I got to do a timing belt and water pump to have piece of mind since I do not know if it has ever had one replaced (dealer has no record of it, they looked for me). I also want to open the exhaust up so it can breath a little better. If I ever hear any turbo bark, I will purchase an inline blow-off valve and install it for protection although that does not seem to be much of an issue at this point.
Thanks again to everyone for all the good information and ideas to consider that was posted on this thread as I am much more knowledgeable about this little smoker than I was a week ago...and I have read everyone's post and comments with an open mind.

kjjet · **Posted:** Fri Sep 13, 2013 9:01 am

WWDiesel wrote:

Thanks, that makes me feel better about having blocked off the EGR exhaust gas inlet. A couple more questions, how did you do away with the flow control valve and would it be advisable to add a blow-off valve in the feed pipe between the intercooler and the motor?. There are many blow-off valves available on the internet and it would be quite easy to add one if it was a big concern as some have stated.

I removed the FCV and split it, removing the flange from the valve and installed the flange only to the intake elbow. I had to get smaller bolts. It dose shorten things about an inch. But the hose reaches with no issues.

As far as a Blow-off valve? I guess if you could find one with the correct pressure blow- off? I have no idea what the psi is. I would not want it to release pressure upon pulling hard.

I don't believe blow- off is a big issue in a CRD.

Good luck!
KJJET

papaindigo · **Posted:** Fri Sep 13, 2013 9:56 am

I certainly don't recall any posts about negative things related to blow off from any of the variety of folks running with a mechanically disabled or completely removed EGR assembly.

That said I'm perfectly happy with whatever EGR function is left after a GDE tune and will leave the EGR assembly in place although I may disconnect the coolant lines.

I've mentioned this before relative to CATs in the exhaust system. If you do mess with blocking/removing the EGR system remember you may not own the vehicle forever or inspection requirements may change at your location or a place you move to. The point being there have been folks who pulled their CAT off and threw it away only to have to reinstall one later to deal with a sale or inspection changes. Bottom line if you remove the EGR keep the parts just in case. Now if you have a more or less invisible blocking plate that's a different matter.

kjjet · **Posted:** Fri Sep 13, 2013 10:32 am

papaindigo wrote:

I certainly don't recall any posts about negative things related to blow off from any of the variety of folks running with a mechanically disabled or completely removed EGR assembly.

That said I'm perfectly happy with whatever EGR function is left after a GDE tune and will leave the EGR assembly in place although I may disconnect the coolant lines.

I've mentioned this before relative to CATs in the exhaust system. If you do mess with blocking/removing the EGR system remember you may not own the vehicle forever or inspection requirements may change at your location or a place you move to. The point being there have been folks who pulled their CAT off and threw it away only to have to reinstall one later to deal with a sale or inspection changes. Bottom line if you remove the EGR keep the parts just in case. Now if you have a more or less invisible blocking plate that's a different matter.

Agreed, But how do you know the EGR valve and or FCV is working with a GDE tune? The EGR may stick open and or the FCV may fail causing other issues, without throwing a CEL due to the tune. That's why i removed mine. Eliminate any future issues.

LikesDieselTanks · **Posted:** Fri Sep 13, 2013 11:00 am

Hmmmmmmmmmmm. I just had an idea. Install a block plate with a non return cap on it. Much like the flat little plate that flips up and down on the tip of the exhaust of old trucks/tractors. Then when manifold pressure is bleed to the exhaust, it opens. And when manifold vacuum occurs it closes preventing exhaust from entering the mix.

I just don't know how much room for movement there is at the egr oriface where the block goes.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Fri Sep 13, 2013 10:39 pm

LikesDieselTanks wrote:

Hmmmmmmmmmmm. I just had an idea. Install a block plate with a non return cap on it. Much like the flat little plate that flips up and down on the tip of the exhaust of old trucks/tractors. Then when manifold pressure is bleed to the exhaust, it opens. And when manifold vacuum occurs it closes preventing exhaust from entering the mix.

I think that is a great Idea, To build on what you stated: A simple solution to this would be to make a flange out of some 1/8 flat stock using the dimensions I posted on my first post on this thread, drill and thread a hole in the center with a pipe tap and install a spring loaded check valve and bolt it to the EGR inlet. That way if the EGR were to open to relieve pressure, it could vent, but it could never suck anything in. Spring loaded check valves in either 3/8 or 1/2 pipe threads are readily available at most hardware stores or Granger Supply stores or any good pluming supply. I have used these type of check valves before on trucks for special engineering needs...

mass-hole · **Posted:** Fri Oct 04, 2013 2:50 pm

WWDiesel wrote:

LikesDieselTanks wrote:

Hmmmmmmmmmmm. I just had an idea. Install a block plate with a non return cap on it. Much like the flat little plate that flips up and down on the tip of the exhaust of old trucks/tractors. Then when manifold pressure is bleed to the exhaust, it opens. And when manifold vacuum occurs it closes preventing exhaust from entering the mix.

I think that is a great Idea, To build on what you stated: A simple solution to this would be to make a flange out of some 1/8 flat stock using the dimensions I posted on my first post on this thread, drill and thread a hole in the center with a pipe tap and install a spring loaded check valve and bolt it to the EGR inlet. That way if the EGR were to open to relieve pressure, it could vent, but it could never suck anything in. Spring loaded check valves in either 3/8 or 1/2 pipe threads are readily available at most hardware stores or Granger Supply stores or any good pluming supply. I have used these type of check valves before on trucks for special engineering needs...

Either that or place a normal block off plate on the exhaust manifold and route the EGR pipe to the intake between the filter and the turbo inlet. That way if you did have an EGR failure:

1. You are no longer plumbed to the exhaust and you could not be dumping exhaust into the intake
2. You retain the Blow off function which would dump to the intake, pre-turbo. This is how subaru's blow off valves work.
3. If there is a vacuum in the manifold, the stuck EGR would pull in filtered air from the intake tube which is at ambient pressure.

Either way, if the EGR is stuck open you would be losing boost pressure from the intake manifold and I assume you would see a reduction in power?

kjjet · **Posted:** Mon Oct 07, 2013 8:52 am

mass-hole wrote:

WWDiesel wrote:

LikesDieselTanks wrote:

engineering needs...

Either way, if the EGR is stuck open you would be losing boost pressure from the intake manifold and I assume you would see a reduction in power?

With a GDE tune there is no indication of EGR failure. Even the slightest leak from the EGR will reduce boost pressure and You may not realize it. Reducing MPG.

Trying to troubleshoot a possible EGR boost issue? What are you going to do? Replace the EGR valve? That would be an expensive change for nothing.

REMOVE IT AND FORGET IT. Is what i say.

mass-hole · **Posted:** Thu Nov 14, 2013 1:43 pm

kjjet wrote:

With a GDE tune there is no indication of EGR failure. Even the slightest leak from the EGR will reduce boost pressure and You may not realize it. Reducing MPG.

Trying to troubleshoot a possible EGR boost issue? What are you going to do? Replace the EGR valve? That would be an expensive change for nothing.

REMOVE IT AND FORGET IT. Is what i say.

Thank you, I've seen the light.

Brianawd · **Joined:** Wed Apr 03, 2013 12:59 pm **Posts:** 130

using the EGR as a wastegate/bov has no benefit. A bov on a Gas engine is there to prevent compressor surge when the throttle is closed. In turn saving the thrust bearing on the turbo. Diesels don't have Throttle body's so no compressor surge. As soon as you let off the go pedal in the diesel the compressed air just enters the motor. That air going in is not going to cause any issues as the motor is under no load at that point. For the most part the injectors are off as soon as you kill the go pedal as the motor is on desel.

Bushman5 · **Joined:** Sat Jul 11, 2015 11:05 am **Posts:** 276

Anyone know what Glend wrote?

mass-hole · **Posted:** Wed Jul 06, 2016 2:47 pm

Bushman5 wrote:

Anyone know what Glend wrote?

Probably something along the lines of being morons for blocking the egr. Mines been blocked since 42k and removed entirely by like 75k with zero issue.

DAVO67 · **Posted:** Sat Jul 23, 2016 12:14 pm

Hi to all, I've just joined the forum after reading a lot of the threads regarding the Liberty CRD. Gown here in Australia we call it a Cherokee and I've not long purchased a 06 model with 125,000kms (about 80,000mls) on it. I'm planning on fitting the EGR block off plate and was wondering if i'll need to remove the butterfly from the FCV as well? Or does the butterfly just remain fully open when the EGR is blocked off with the plate?

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sat Jul 23, 2016 1:55 pm

DAVO67 wrote:

Hi to all, I've just joined the forum after reading a lot of the threads regarding the Liberty CRD. Gown here in Australia we call it a Cherokee and I've not long purchased a 06 model with 125,000kms (about 80,000mls) on it. I'm planning on fitting the EGR block off plate and was wondering if i'll need to remove the butterfly from the FCV as well? Or does the butterfly just remain fully open when the EGR is blocked off with the plate?

You can leave the plate in, but it is best to remove the butterfly plate from the FCV! The valve will still operate but be rendered totally ineffective at blocking any incoming flow to the intake. I ran with the block off plate and FCV butterfly removed for many months before the Weeks Elbow Kit became available. The Weeks Kit is still the best option in the long run but will require a re-flash with one of the free tunes to get rid of the DTC's after unplugging and removing the FCV and EGR valve and cooler... :wink:

undrgnd · **Joined:** Sat Mar 26, 2016 4:47 am **Posts:** 194

DAVO67 wrote:

Hi to all, I've just joined the forum after reading a lot of the threads regarding the Liberty CRD. Gown here in Australia we call it a Cherokee and I've not long purchased a 06 model with 125,000kms (about 80,000mls) on it. I'm planning on fitting the EGR block off plate and was wondering if i'll need to remove the butterfly from the FCV as well? Or does the butterfly just remain fully open when the EGR is blocked off with the plate?

Davo, welcome. Make sure you get on AJOR forum as well as its another good source for our cars down under.

I'm in NZ but out models are the same. I too have an 06.

I agree with previous post and to be honest i would do the weeks stage 1 and 2. The EGR is prone to leak in both boost and coolant. Its dead weight and the car does not need it. I can confirm that they do fit but if you do decide to do the stage 2 you will need to purchase a hose plug (there is a perfect one in Aus that's alloy and does the job sweet. Its called an alloy bungy 16mm to be exact). PM me of you need more details.

I would then get a tune either via gde or via the free versions on this forum. I have heard some really good things from the Yeti tunes.

At that time I would 110% also do the glow plugs if you haven't done so already. With the intake pipe removed it is honestly the best time to do this before installing weeks. Also the original ceramic glow plugs are prone to break off and you don't want that. Buy the 7v etecno ones from id parts assuming you have not had the 5v flash done or by previous owner. You can probably go to a jeep dealer and and with your vin see if this has happend and anything else to you're car as long as long as they logged it. Whilst purchasing at idparts buy a Map / sensor as the one you have is probably shot. You can clean them as per Sam's noob guide (which you should go through if you havent) but they are cheap so just get a new one.

I assume the timing belt and all that have been done as well as well as water pump replacement?

If everything else is good with your ride the only other recommendations I would do are the in fuel tank pump and sasquatch harness and the provent 200.

Save yourself heaps of cash and do these mods yourself. Although tricky at times it's a fun car to work on.

Enjoy!!

DAVO67 · **Posted:** Sat Jul 23, 2016 9:16 pm

Thanks for the info WWDiesel and undrgng, I really appreciate it.

I have also joined the AJOR forum undrgng so hope to chat with you there as well in the future.

I do want to install the Weeks stage 1 and 2 and get a GDE tune but I'm a little short on funds at the moment. I just thought blocking the EGR now would be a good thing to do to in the interim. I'd also read somewhere that putting in a blocking plate won't trigger a CEL the Aussie models?

So far I've installed a Provent 200, changed to Samco silicon hoses and did a full service with new filters and oil. The car was well maintained by the previous owner, always serviced and had the timing belt done at 100,000km. It runs well at the moment but I realise that without some other preventative maintenance I will have issues in the future.

Thanks for the tip on the glow plugs undrgnd. The yellow sticker on the timing case says this model has 7V ceramics so I will change them out as well.

Thanks again!!

EGR Block off plate dimensions

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