Any substitute for a DRB3?

pwrwagn · **Joined:** Mon Jul 22, 2013 2:40 am **Posts:** 192

I need to fix my ABS, A/C and the seat belt warning system, which dings for minutes after you start up and drive.

However, I really need a DRB3 to read as much data as possible to help. But, I don't have access to one right now. Is there any "not expensive" substitute?

geordi · **Posted:** Mon Sep 30, 2013 6:14 pm

Certainly not the Autoenginuity system - don't waste any money on that.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Mon Sep 30, 2013 8:11 pm

If your seat belt warning chime is dinging for a while because you haven't fastened your seat belt then the best and safest solution is to fasten your seat belt. The second best solution is to consult your owner's manual on how to deactivate your Enhanced Warning System
(BeltAlert) which will at least kill the 96 second alarm. If neither of these options are relevant you need a good code reader/writer and I cannot help you there other than say find a helpful dealer or independent shop with the proper tool.

pwrwagn · **Joined:** Mon Jul 22, 2013 2:40 am **Posts:** 192

papaindigo wrote:

If your seat belt warning chime is dinging for a while because you haven't fastened your seat belt then the best and safest solution is to fasten your seat belt. The second best solution is to consult your owner's manual on how to deactivate your Enhanced Warning System
(BeltAlert) which will at least kill the 96 second alarm. If neither of these options are relevant you need a good code reader/writer and I cannot help you there other than say find a helpful dealer or independent shop with the proper tool.

I always wear my seat belt.

I wasn't asking for how to deactivate the alarm. The system chimes whether it's buckled or not.

ebbnflow · **Posted:** Mon Sep 30, 2013 9:03 pm

geordi wrote:

Certainly not the Autoenginuity system - don't waste any money on that.

Are you being sarcastic? I have AE for my ford and love it. Is the Chrysler enhancement garbage?

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Mon Sep 30, 2013 10:59 pm

pwrwagn wrote:

I need to fix my ABS, A/C and the seat belt warning system, which dings for minutes after you start up and drive.

However, I really need a DRB3 to read as much data as possible to help. But, I don't have access to one right now. Is there any "not expensive" substitute?

Are you in northern colorado?

geordi · **Posted:** Mon Sep 30, 2013 11:01 pm

I'm not being sarcastic at all. Dead serious honesty.

I bought the Chrysler "enhanced" package from them, after being assured that I absolutely needed the "basic" kit first.
What did I get? Another USB-OBD2 dongle, completely replacing the "basic" USB-OBD2 dongle that I had just gotten. It had a different security code within it, simply used to activate their software. Nothing else was different on the hardware. Ripoff #1.

Second problem with the Chrysler setup: Sure, it allowed me to open and inspect lots more computer modules than the engine-only basic OBD2 kit did. Notice I said "inspect" and not CHANGE. The entire thing is a "We will show you lots of sensor information for lots of things" design, but ALL in a Look-but-no-touching methodology. Their website tells you NONE of that prior to purchase. Ripoff #2.

Third problem: The software might be able to adjust settings now (I really doubt it) but the system that I had will never know... Because they wanted EVEN MORE MONEY to "upgrade" the software simply because I had owned it for more than a year. When I purchased it, the purchase included "any available updates for new features, at least 3 per year." Notice I didn't say "for only the next year" or "for a limited time" like many things are. No, they decided at some point that their current customers hadn't given them enough money yet, so if they wanted some unknown and amorphous "new features and sensors" then they would just have to open their wallets yet again. Ripoff #3.

I'm sorry that the computers in the CRD don't conform to the specs that the VWs do. Audi, VW, Porsche, and (IIRC) some Mercedes and Sprinter vehicles can all be talked to by the Vag-Com system. Buy the hardware ONCE, and you have software updates FOREVER. There is even an upgrade program where you can trade in the old hardware if new features / protocols are needed for new cars. LOTS of functions are supported for inspection... And most of them are ALSO supported for MODIFICATION! Look AND Touch!

Instead of doing it like that (for much the same price) AutoEnginuity chooses to sell you an extra (and NOT NEEDED) piece of hardware for an exorbitant price, and simply hide behind "well, lots of vehicles support lots of different features" as a reply if you ask before you purchase. You won't get a straight answer from them about whether settings can be adjusted, or even what settings can be adjusted. Their "customer support" is next to worthless, all they are willing to do is point back at the massive matrix of sensor names that can be displayed, which serves only to give hope to the customer... And fleece them of their cash for little more than viewing said parameters in return.

I do not like them with green eggs and ham, I DO NOT LIKE THEM Sam I am.

ebbnflow · **Posted:** Tue Oct 01, 2013 11:22 am

geordi wrote:

I'm not being sarcastic at all. Dead serious honesty.

I bought the Chrysler "enhanced" package from them, after being assured that I absolutely needed the "basic" kit first.
What did I get? Another USB-OBD2 dongle, completely replacing the "basic" USB-OBD2 dongle that I had just gotten. It had a different security code within it, simply used to activate their software. Nothing else was different on the hardware. Ripoff #1.

Second problem with the Chrysler setup: Sure, it allowed me to open and inspect lots more computer modules than the engine-only basic OBD2 kit did. Notice I said "inspect" and not CHANGE. The entire thing is a "We will show you lots of sensor information for lots of things" design, but ALL in a Look-but-no-touching methodology. Their website tells you NONE of that prior to purchase. Ripoff #2.

Third problem: The software might be able to adjust settings now (I really doubt it) but the system that I had will never know... Because they wanted EVEN MORE MONEY to "upgrade" the software simply because I had owned it for more than a year. When I purchased it, the purchase included "any available updates for new features, at least 3 per year." Notice I didn't say "for only the next year" or "for a limited time" like many things are. No, they decided at some point that their current customers hadn't given them enough money yet, so if they wanted some unknown and amorphous "new features and sensors" then they would just have to open their wallets yet again. Ripoff #3.

I'm sorry that the computers in the CRD don't conform to the specs that the VWs do. Audi, VW, Porsche, and (IIRC) some Mercedes and Sprinter vehicles can all be talked to by the Vag-Com system. Buy the hardware ONCE, and you have software updates FOREVER. There is even an upgrade program where you can trade in the old hardware if new features / protocols are needed for new cars. LOTS of functions are supported for inspection... And most of them are ALSO supported for MODIFICATION! Look AND Touch!

Instead of doing it like that (for much the same price) AutoEnginuity chooses to sell you an extra (and NOT NEEDED) piece of hardware for an exorbitant price, and simply hide behind "well, lots of vehicles support lots of different features" as a reply if you ask before you purchase. You won't get a straight answer from them about whether settings can be adjusted, or even what settings can be adjusted. Their "customer support" is next to worthless, all they are willing to do is point back at the massive matrix of sensor names that can be displayed, which serves only to give hope to the customer... And fleece them of their cash for little more than viewing said parameters in return.

I do not like them with green eggs and ham, I DO NOT LIKE THEM Sam I am.

Well that's a bummer. Thanks for the honest feedback. Makes me feel better about buying an AE clone instead of the real deal.

P.S. I like green eggs and ham.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Tue Oct 01, 2013 11:49 am

pwrwagn - circling back to your issues:
1. there are a variety of code "readers" that can read and clear ECU trouble codes but none of them that I know of will enable you to modify ECU settings and none of them will access or clear transmission or body control module codes.
2. Sir Sam asked your location because he has, as I recall, a DRB3 which will work on an 05 although I don't know about an 06.
3. how long, timed, does your seat belt warning chime with the belt unfastened and with the belt fastened? If it chimes for ca. 1.5 minutes and stops with the belt unfastened that's the "long" chime that can be reset per the owner's manual although the seat belt light in the instrument cluster will stay on. If it chimes at all with the seat belt fastened then how long (15 seconds or so vs. 1.5 minutes) and what does the seat belt warning light do? I suspect a bad connection or BCM problem such that the system is not recognizing that the belt is fastened in which case with it fastened I guess it would chime on the long setting unless reset and the seat belt light would stay on. If so a code reader/writer won't help.
4. what's your ABS problem. If the ABS light is on and odometer, IIRC, does not work since you have an 05 it's likely the single sensor on the top of the differential in the rear. A very common problem is the small wire to the sensor breaks inside the insulation and the fix is new wire. If that's not it a good code reader might point you to a specific LF/RF/R sensor being bad.
5. as to your AC problem what is it?

pwrwagn · **Joined:** Mon Jul 22, 2013 2:40 am **Posts:** 192

papaindigo wrote:

pwrwagn - circling back to your issues:
1. there are a variety of code "readers" that can read and clear ECU trouble codes but none of them that I know of will enable you to modify ECU settings and none of them will access or clear transmission or body control module codes.
2. Sir Sam asked your location because he has, as I recall, a DRB3 which will work on an 05 although I don't know about an 06.
3. how long, timed, does your seat belt warning chime with the belt unfastened and with the belt fastened? If it chimes for ca. 1.5 minutes and stops with the belt unfastened that's the "long" chime that can be reset per the owner's manual although the seat belt light in the instrument cluster will stay on. If it chimes at all with the seat belt fastened then how long (15 seconds or so vs. 1.5 minutes) and what does the seat belt warning light do? I suspect a bad connection or BCM problem such that the system is not recognizing that the belt is fastened in which case with it fastened I guess it would chime on the long setting unless reset and the seat belt light would stay on. If so a code reader/writer won't help.
4. what's your ABS problem. If the ABS light is on and odometer, IIRC, does not work since you have an 05 it's likely the single sensor on the top of the differential in the rear. A very common problem is the small wire to the sensor breaks inside the insulation and the fix is new wire. If that's not it a good code reader might point you to a specific LF/RF/R sensor being bad.
5. as to your AC problem what is it?

1. thanks I was able to borrow a drb3 yesterday for a while.

2 the drb3 works for all crds. they were one of the last where that's the primary system.

3. the system does not recognize buckling the belt. it flashes the light and starts dinging anywhere from a few feet to a 1/4 mile after you take off. it dings and flashes for about 2 to 3 minutes. its several slow dings while the light flashes then a pause and then repeats.

4. that indeed is the issue. stored codes wre bad circuit to rear sensor and not reading sensor. it happens at times on takeoff or big bumps.

5. the relay is good, the system works if you manually bypass the relay. telling the engine controller to turn on the compressor does nothing. I suspect either bad controller or bad circuit to relay. hi and low sensors show good inputs.

my mil light is dead. clustrer. cannot turn it on w/drb3.

the odometer stops if the abs light comes on. speedo keeps working.

also have odd intermittent power loss. if you launch wot it may lose power after you let off. won't com back till you turn off the motor and restart.

I'm about to drive from oregon to illinois. kinda nervous about this thing.

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Thu Oct 03, 2013 2:30 pm

pwrwagn wrote:

2 the drb3 works for all crds. they were one of the last where that's the primary system.

No it doesn't. It only works on 2005 MY KJs.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Thu Oct 03, 2013 3:49 pm

Comments:
1. Seat belt - I long ago ran thru the steps to disable the Enhanced Warning System (BetlAltert) per the Owner's Manual and don't recall what it sounds like so bear with me. a) when you enter the vehicle do not put on your seat belt and switch the key to the on position without starting the engine - does the seat belt warning chime sound for like 15 seconds? b) repeat but fasten the belt while the chime is sounding - does it immediately stop? c) repeat but fasten the belt before key on - does the chime sound at all? If a=yes, b=yes, and c=no then the basic seat belt warning system would appear to be ok. Read the OM section on that Enhanced system. It sounds, no pun intended, to me like what you are hearing is the Enhanced warning system. You turn in off per OM instructions BUT depending on your a,b, and c answers you may have a wiring problem between the BCM and the seat belt that's preventing the sytem from recognizing the belt is fastened. BASED ON THE KISS principle get a flashlight and look around under the seat to see if the quick disconnect on that wiring is unplugged.
2. like I said re. 05 model look from wire to rear sensor being broken inside the insulation and rewire. Alternatively IIRC the sensor is fairly cheap so you could 1st try replacing it to see if that's the fix; if not it's the wire. I suspect the wire given your big bumps comment.
3. I'm not an AC person so cannot help there. You might consider a separate post on that topic with details of what it does or does not do under what circumstances.

Other items:
a. CEL/MIL light - invoke cluster test by holding the trip odometer button while turning the ignition on. It will cycle through all bulbs and gauges. If light does not come on then or when you switch on ignition either a) a PO or some such painted or taped (black tape) over it or b) it's burned out. Either way you need to pull the cluster; if it's burned out the fix is a $2 LED and a bit of precision soldering. I can provide instructions on both if you email me.
b. power loss - check the plug on the "Mercedes" sensor on side of air box to make sure it's not loose or dirty, check air filter to see if clogged, clean MAP sensor, remove air from fuel filter (replace if over 20K miles on it). May not help but it's a start. Should be associated codes that the DRB3 could pull.

pwrwagn · **Joined:** Mon Jul 22, 2013 2:40 am **Posts:** 192

Sir Sam wrote:

pwrwagn wrote:

I need to fix my ABS, A/C and the seat belt warning system, which dings for minutes after you start up and drive.

However, I really need a DRB3 to read as much data as possible to help. But, I don't have access to one right now. Is there any "not expensive" substitute?

Are you in northern colorado?

no, eastern oregon about to drive to chicago

arengant · **Posted:** Fri Oct 04, 2013 3:03 am

Power loss after WOT could be air in the fuel lines. Once you cycle the engine it would clear. Have you checked your fuel filter head? I have a new one that has helped but I still am going to put in a lift pump to avoid air in my system.

pwrwagn · **Joined:** Mon Jul 22, 2013 2:40 am **Posts:** 192

The abs is fixed. The wires at the connector to the rear sensor were tightly twisted and insulation stretched. we cut off the bad 1/2 inch and soldered them so the solder joint was inside the connector when done. the wrapped it up in 3m 33+ as a strain relief.

have a whole new updated filterhead to go on. It isn't leaking, tho.

As to the chime, the system never notices the belt being buckled. There are no wires connected to the pass seat at all. And no way to as the connectors don't match. I am missing an adapter of some kind. The connection under the driver seat doesn't match the color codes in the pdf of the fsm.

Also it appears the glow controller does not work. Even at 40 deg I get no glow plug light.

geordi · **Posted:** Fri Oct 04, 2013 12:28 pm

40deg is still warm. The gp light is more of a "wait to start" light. On mine, even at zero, it still only was on for about 2 full seconds. Actual glow time is longer, could be as much as 10-15 sec. White smoke and more clattering diesel sound is normal for a cold start, the combustion will be poor until the cylinders warm a bit. Usually takes about 20 seconds or less.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

papaindigo · **Posted:** Fri Oct 04, 2013 1:29 pm

Not to be difficult but I'm not sure I'm being listened to which is ok but if that's the case I'll stop playing in this chat.

1. I posted some specific questions about seat belt behavior to get an idea of exactly what's happening to help in diagnosis. Pls respond to those questions. As to the passenger belt you are correct there is no wiring. There is however wiring on the drivers seat belt, I can see it but don't know where it goes once it vanishes from easily visible sight. I suspect a problem with that wiring although it could be a BCM issue but I favor checking simple things first.
2. did you invoke the recommended instrument cluster test and if so did the glow plug light cycle on? If yes and yes that light is fine; in normal start-up you won't see it unless you are looking right at it when it flashes on/off. If yes and no the the bulb is probably gone.
3. air in the filter head does not = any visible leak. My original filter head was plagued by air with no visible leak. Air was getting in thru the heater plug which was burned but no fuel was coming out although if you stuck a "Q" tip in the plug recess and then did a sniff test you could smell diesel.

pwrwagn · **Joined:** Mon Jul 22, 2013 2:40 am **Posts:** 192

papaindigo wrote:

Not to be difficult but I'm not sure I'm being listened to which is ok but if that's the case I'll stop playing in this chat.

1. I posted some specific questions about seat belt behavior to get an idea of exactly what's happening to help in diagnosis. Pls respond to those questions. As to the passenger belt you are correct there is no wiring. There is however wiring on the drivers seat belt, I can see it but don't know where it goes once it vanishes from easily visible sight. I suspect a problem with that wiring although it could be a BCM issue but I favor checking simple things first.
2. did you invoke the recommended instrument cluster test and if so did the glow plug light cycle on? If yes and yes that light is fine; in normal start-up you won't see it unless you are looking right at it when it flashes on/off. If yes and no the the bulb is probably gone.
3. air in the filter head does not = any visible leak. My original filter head was plagued by air with no visible leak. Air was getting in thru the heater plug which was burned but no fuel was coming out although if you stuck a "Q" tip in the plug recess and then did a sniff test you could smell diesel.

I am not ignoring you I am on a tablet and typing is a pain. I will give detailed respnses when get back home. Thanks for your help so far.

pwrwagn · **Joined:** Mon Jul 22, 2013 2:40 am **Posts:** 192

papaindigo wrote:

Not to be difficult but I'm not sure I'm being listened to which is ok but if that's the case I'll stop playing in this chat.

1. I posted some specific questions about seat belt behavior to get an idea of exactly what's happening to help in diagnosis. Pls respond to those questions. As to the passenger belt you are correct there is no wiring. There is however wiring on the drivers seat belt, I can see it but don't know where it goes once it vanishes from easily visible sight. I suspect a problem with that wiring although it could be a BCM issue but I favor checking simple things first.

I traced the wires, and as I said earlier, the color coding listed in the downloaded FSM (big pdf) doesn't match the vehicle. It does up the point where the wires from the latch plug into the adapter.

Has someone changed stuff? Could be. The seat belt light stays on steady once the initial "all lights on" when you turn the key on, and putting the belt in has no effect on the light, doesn't cause a chime, nor does it stop any chimes, the sequence I found somewhere else about how to disable the chime for the belt doesn't do anything either. None of the tests listed have any of the listed results.

Quote:

2. did you invoke the recommended instrument cluster test and if so did the glow plug light cycle on? If yes and yes that light is fine; in normal start-up you won't see it unless you are looking right at it when it flashes on/off. If yes and no the the bulb is probably gone.

When I had the DRB3, I tested most of the lights, including the CEL and the glow plug circuit. I didn't test the ones I know work. The GP light does work. As I said before, the only one I found to malfunction was the CEL, which doesn't light.

Quote:

3. air in the filter head does not = any visible leak. My original filter head was plagued by air with no visible leak. Air was getting in thru the heater plug which was burned but no fuel was coming out although if you stuck a "Q" tip in the plug recess and then did a sniff test you could smell diesel.

This vehicle has lived its entire life without the fuel heater even coming on. There's no fuel in either plug and I found no evidence of any vacuum leak in the heater. However, I DO have a vacuum leak somewhere that , and since the whole thing is suspect, I bought the new one anyway and will put it in. However, this is not the cause of the sudden low power event. I don't know what was. It stopped doing it. I am quite certain it is electrical in nature, like an overboost error that throws the computer into limp mode.

Update on the glow plug light. I spent the night in Rawlins, WY, and in the morning, when it was in the 20's, the light flashed briefly. If this is "normal", then fine. It started poorly, needing some cranking and it slowly lit one cylinder at a time until it started.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Mon Oct 07, 2013 10:26 am

For what it's worth:
1. if the seat belt light stays on all the time even with the belt fastened and you get the annoying enhanced warning chime and the Owner's Manual enhanced warning chime doesn't do anything then my quess would be you have some combination of a driver seatbelt wiring problem and/or a BCM (at least I think the body control module handles that stuff) problem. If you are good enough with wiring diagrams you can probably trace the wire and if you are really good, I'm not, you might even be able to determine if any sort of signal is associated with the wire. Check with Sir Sam on the BCM as there may be a way with the DRB3 to determine what's going on at that end with respect to the chimes.
2. glow plug light only briefly is normal but hard starting at 20F combined with a not working CEL light worries me a bit. Have you tried pulling ECU codes? I wonder if you have a bad glow plug(s) and someone has disabled the CEL to hide that fact. OEM ceramic glow plugs are a known failure point and can shed bits of broken glow plug tip into cylinders with occasional very bad results. Fix, assuming no piston/cylinder/valve damage is replacing with metal glow plugs - either OEM 5v which requires an ECU reflash or the Italian 7v drop ins (IDParts has a good deal on the latter).

Any substitute for a DRB3?

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