OOOOOOOK. So It appears that my 2005 CRD is leaking behind the EGR cooler. It is a steady drip while idling. I removed the cooler and the intake pipe. Hardly any oil inside the intake tract. The stainless tube running up to the intake is damp but not soaked (normal diesel seepage I would say. So basically I am puzzled. Where is this coming from?

Take a look at the driver's side engine pic at viewtopic.php?f=98&t=74594 .

Comments, at least I think I have it right:
1. the copper looking pipe on the right runs from the exhaust manifold to the EGR valve.
2. when the EGR valve is open some quantity of exhaust gas is diverted thru the valve, EGR cooler below it, to the heat shield wrapped bright (ss looking) pipe that runs to the intake elbow, and on into the intake.
3. when the EGR valve is closed (actually when it's open too but I don't think that matters as much given what you are looking for) intake air with appropriate turbo boost comes from the driver's side CAC hose to the FCV (flow control valve - rectangle with notch on upper left in center of picture) and then up to the intake elbow (thing the pipe in #2 attaches too)
4. intake air coming from the turbo carries a certain quantity of oil from the CCV (hockey puck looking thing on top of the engine with hose running to the air filter box to turbo hose just in front of the turbo)
5. assuming some degree of boost pressure some of that oil can escape (drip) from any of several joints along the path from the CAC hose attachment point mentioned above including both ends of the pipe mentioned in #2 above.

I'd suggest you get the engine slightly warm, spray that side with a good engine degreaser, rinse lightly with water (not hard enough to get water into electric connections), drive a bit and see if you can spot exactly where the oil is coming from. I'd suspect a leaky gasket although the marmon flange where the pipe in #2 above connects is a good candidate. Solution - tighten loose connections, replace gasket, use appropriate RTV depending on where the leak is actually located.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

Well I pulled off the egr and cooler. Seemed like oil was behind it. I cleaned everything off wit brake cleaner then started it and my heart sank. The block is cracked. From the bell housig to about half way to the front mounting post for the cooler. Crap. What to do now?!

SERIOUSLY???
How the F--- does that happen!?!
Have you been loosing coolant?
Is your crankcase full of coolant?
I almost seems impossible for your engine to have a cracked block AND still run AND still
hold fluids!
Find a way to post pictures of your block here on the forum for everyone else to see and confirm.
Or at least let somebody else look at it for confimation.

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U.S. Army Retired

Well I already put jb weld on it but I'll snap photos anyway. Any way it's a hairline crack and oil leaks out of it. Well used to. The jb is holding up darn well

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Silver 2006 KJ 2.8L CRD Limited:
GDE ECO Tune / Fumoto Valve / E-Tecno GX3123 7v Glow Plugs / 2nd Gen Fuel Head / Mishimoto RED Hoses / Rockers/Lifters @ 114k / Hayden FC + 11 Blade Nylon / Sears P1 Battery / Transgo 45RFE-HD2 Reprogramming Kit / Timken Front Bearings

I'll take photos tomorrow I assure you a troll I am not. And a quick google search brought up another similar situation. http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/f228/anyone ... ock-47475/ the crack he speaks of is in the same place where mine is. A few of these must have a casting flaw. It happens. I am a tdiclub vendor and active poster on many forums. Trust me not a troll!

If the crack doesn't go through the water jacket or an oil passage it will just show as a slow drip from the unpressurized crankcase. Why throw out troll accusations?

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05CRD: GDE Hot ECU & TCM tunes, Provent, Cat filter, Facet lift pump, TransGo kit, Florida TC, Samcos, stainless brake lines, HDS thermostat, Renegade light bar,
RL super sliders, Bilstein adjustables, Al's Gen 4.5 Arms, 235/85-16 Duratracs, DTT rear, Elocker front, EVIC+TPMS, Turbo timer, McNally pillar gauges, Weeks Stage II kit.

This is the area in ? But I have already applied jb weld to it. http://i.imgur.com/zXsW2rh.png

And to be clear I did not go through the trouble of removing that egr and cooler just because it seemed like a cool idea to troll on a forum. That was a major pain to do. And FYI the jb weld seems to be holding great. I don't know for how long but it's working now.